absmiami Posted January 21 Author Posted January 21 (edited) 2 reseviors for the brakes - front and rear - and one on the left side for the clutch - and the steering rack - brass 16th in thin wall tube - using a .030 Evergreen rod for the tie rod - will give me some flex and allow posable front wheels without having to make tiny joints on eitherr side of the rack … Edited January 21 by absmiami
MarkJ Posted January 21 Posted January 21 Some more fine work from your bench, Andrew. Some of it I'm not sure what I'm looking at, but I'm sure it will come clear to me down the line. At least I hope so and if not I'm sure you will splain it to me.
absmiami Posted January 24 Author Posted January 24 On to the rocker arms - since the kit is a curbside - the rockers are cast in one peice to ease assembly - but i’ll saw the casting apart and to make spec arms …
MarkJ Posted January 24 Posted January 24 Andrew. It all has been splained to me now. Awesome stuff going on here.
absmiami Posted January 24 Author Posted January 24 Sorry Mark - i’ll do my best to confuse you again shortly … Brit modeler Matt used some lo temp solder for his Auto Kits BRM build … i’m trying my hand at this - using this low tem solder and flux - and a Weller solder iron with digital temp control … off we go -
absmiami Posted January 24 Author Posted January 24 I cut one side of the susp casting apart - filed and soldered it to some brass tube - and then soldered the in-board section of the arm to the other side of the tube - got a strong joint - solder melted and flowed at temps between 350 and 375 - and there was no detectable damage to the white metal - so far so good …
absmiami Posted January 24 Author Posted January 24 Opposite arm - these are symmetric - can be mounted either side on pins running through the mounting holes as shown …
absmiami Posted January 24 Author Posted January 24 The assembly should give me a fr track measurement within an inch of spec - with this drawing as a guide …
absmiami Posted January 25 Author Posted January 25 Next experiments / white metal to white metal - the opening in the cowling was closed because the team Lotus located the transistor box up high in back of the carbs - until they changed over to fuel injection - team ran the Climax 8 with carbs for most - all? - of 1962 - if you were wondering where i got a scrap peice of white metal - its the strip that i cut from the kit top body half … which will come in very handy for some additional body mods …
absmiami Posted February 1 Author Posted February 1 Making bulkheads - the green one is modified fr the Tamiya 25 kit - the tabs on the second bulkhead will hold magnets - w magnets at the back of the body cowling - to secure the cowling -
absmiami Posted February 1 Author Posted February 1 (edited) The dash bulkhead fr the Tamiya 25 kit - although the kit is nominally 20th scale - i’m modifying this part to make my part - but … Edited February 1 by absmiami
absmiami Posted February 1 Author Posted February 1 Fr Karl Ludvigsen’s great book on Colin Chapman … this drawing shows a feature that is not too noticable in most drawings or photos - the dash is riveted to a steel frame that bends forward above the scuttle - so the frame is not flat … so the dash is tilted a little to improve line of sight for the driver … the Tamiya part is flat - oops …
absmiami Posted February 1 Author Posted February 1 (edited) On 12/20/2024 at 11:08 PM, absmiami said: Hard to notice - even on the photo i took at Laguna Seca yrs ago … . Edited February 1 by absmiami
absmiami Posted February 1 Author Posted February 1 (edited) I created the frame fr the kit bulkhead - with the forward facing tilt for the dash surround - and then realized that i had made an error when i made the monocoque that needed fixing.. Edited February 1 by absmiami
absmiami Posted February 1 Author Posted February 1 The brackets that secure the frame were too far back on the monocoque - so that the frame was about 4 sc inches behind the lip of the cowling - it’s supposed to sit just under the trailing edge of the cowling …
absmiami Posted February 1 Author Posted February 1 So i had to remove the brackets cast into the each side of the cockpit - a major pain - and make new ones out of Evergreen L shaped strip …
absmiami Posted February 1 Author Posted February 1 The frame in its new brackets sits much closer to the lip of the cowling … within a scale inch of where it should be - i’ll take it …
absmiami Posted February 1 Author Posted February 1 The dash panel is made from .012 plastic sheet - using the Tamiya kit dash as a rough guide -
MarkJ Posted February 1 Posted February 1 (edited) Great job on the evergreen bulkhead brackets. What adhesive did you use for them? Edited February 1 by MarkJ
absmiami Posted February 1 Author Posted February 1 If its evergreen to evergreen or evergreen to Tamiya plastic - its Tam thin liquid glue - if I’m gluing plastic to resin - it’s CA glue - med or slow - 1
absmiami Posted February 2 Author Posted February 2 This shot - just to show the forward tilt on the dash
absmiami Posted February 2 Author Posted February 2 Modified and used 4 of the gauge housings that i sawed off of the back of the Tamiya casting -
absmiami Posted February 3 Author Posted February 3 Wait - the 25 needs an engine, right? here’s what the Climax 1.5 litre DOHC eight looked like in the 1962 season 25s - Weber carbed - fuel injection was under development but not yet ready …
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