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Posted

Now that i know how to use lo temp solder I’ve soldered a nickel silver post to the ends of the rockers - that’s where i can pin the top of the shocks - the shocks are in-board - housed in the footbox - this was another innovation on the 25 - 

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Posted

The trailing arms will be nickel silver .040 tube - 1 inch scale - silver soldered to posts - the early 25s did not have the Len Terry designed brackets that were riveted to the sides of the monocoque on the 63 cars and many following open wheelers … the angle needed for the post follows the shape filed on to the popsicle stick - the angle was sort of hit-or-miss  -  but once i found the right angle i’ve got the stick as a template to solder up trailing arm brothers and sisters …

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Posted

The fasteners for the trailing arms will be glued during final assembly - with a fake nut - and the length of the trailing arms can be shortened once all the parts are assembled …

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Posted

Some white metal susp parts from a years past Gurney Eagle project - to be used on the trailing arms and parallel links …

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Posted

Brake line junction - when I solder up a small part - i start with lengths of tubing - this is .026 brass - and reduce each length with files until i’ve made the part -

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Posted

The Auto Kits wh metal steering wheel turns out to have the exact diameter - 12 scale inches - but it needs a few mods - reducing the texture appearance on the wheel grip - which was a relatively smooth leather - and and a small correction to the shape of the spokes - 

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Posted

And then chucked into a Foredom drill peice to go for a spin - sanding sticks and the tips of files give the part a machined - rather than a cast appearance - just need to make a collar to place behind the spokes … and yes- I’ll need to an emblem to the center cap …

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Posted

And a quick thought about research for a particular car at a particular moment of its competition life - this is the steering wheel on Clark’s 25 on its debut in ‘62 - Dutch Grand Prix - with a simple machined collar to attach the steering rod - 

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Posted (edited)

And here’s a restored 25 - using a casting in its place - not really inaccuate - because i’m sure Team Lotus utilized the casting later in the 25’s competion career - but - this is why the bl and wh images on sites like Motorsports Images are so valuable to us …

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Edited by absmiami
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Posted

But the shifter on Clark’s 25 in ‘62 was in fact gated - so i’ll rummage around my photo-etch stash to see if i got something - or maybe grab some nickel silver strip and make it …

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Posted

Andrew, I have really enjoyed your posting on Jim Clark's Lotus 25. Clark was my first driver hero when I was a pre-teen. I was in junior high when I found out he had been killed. I remember I was taking final exams that day. Needless to say, I didn't do well on them.

Posted

Gracias JD  - here’s my first shot at the shift gate - made from Evergreen strip with slots cut with an .08 saw blade - its a maybe …

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Posted

Charlie - text me if you  need the show info ...

how would you machine the shift gate ?

would you try to mill the gate pattern ?

or cut vertical slots with a narrow dia. slitting saw on two nickel posts and then solder the two facing nickel strips together ??

both are a pain - which would be less of a pain ?

in MY scale - you would need to use a .10 mill  -   

how many would you break ?  - the .010s are $$$

Posted

While i’m on this lo temp soldering kick - i’ve made the pedals by converting wh metal rod end parts and wh metal scrap fr the kit - - - 

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Posted

Trade-off -  the parts have a nice steel appearance - but they aren’t as strong as brass or nickel - but i won’t / shouldn’t need any strength - the pedals are mounted to the “bridge” above the foot box and suspended …

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