1/24 scale wood and leather

[FujimiLover]

Is it possible to simulate wood-grain dashboards and leather upuhlstery in 1/24 scale? We know it's possible to simulate carbon-fiber and aluminum. It would be sweet if a company like either Scale Motor Sports or Bare-Metal-Foil would come up with wood-grain and leather.

I know we have wood colored paint, but it doesn't look like our 1/1 scale woodened dashboard peices.

I think my KS 500 SL calls for wood on the lower part of the dashboard.

[Brendan]

There really is no scale for wood grain as with all wood, it may vary from tree to tree. There are decal sheets you can get that have a wood grain pattern on them. I don't know off hand who makes them gut they're out there. Also what I've done in the past is buy balsa wood or wood trim for doll houses, stain it and then make an inlay into the plastic.

As for leather, I mix up different shades of browns and tans and either shoot a semi glass or dull coat over the top to get the desired look. But if you're going for actual straps for hoods and such, you can get small pieces of leather at craft stores and then trim in down to the size you want.

[FujimiLover]

Not talking about hoods, just interiors. I'm not concerned about the color of the leather as it comes in millions of colors, I just want the texture to look right. I've thought about that spray paint that "crackles" for painting engine parts and what not. Maybe that'll give the proper look?

[jbwelda]

one thing you can do for leather is rely on the pattern embossed in the plastic of the seat etc if youre so lucky, then spray it with a flat color. then when it dries, take your finger and rub in on your nose a little to pick up some oil, and lightly rub that on the flat paint. makes a pretty convincing effect esp for black leather.

im not sure but maybe scale motorsport makes a wood grain decal if they are still making those retro interior decal sets? if not the zebra skin always looks subtle!

the wood thing is like said but ive also just painted some flat plastic with a brown and then washed it with a few earth tones. then wipe off the high spots. you can make pretty convincing knotholes too by using your dremel to cut out a small indent. then go around it in concentric sort of rings with a fine point sharpie or similar pen. then when that is dry brush some dullcote over it and it will smear out your pen lines and really make it look good. meanwhile fill the divot with india ink and smear that out too. usually if you overdo it you can get it more back toward the base color by wiping with a cloth or if its already too dry then some windex or something similar.

heres an example though its 1/8th scale, and it really helps the realistic look if the piece is inside an enclosed interior!

actually that photo doesnt show much too well but its all i could come up with on short notice. you can see the knothole i came up with, and its not really very good because the battery was going to sit there and cover it. this is on a big scale model but actually this technique works better on smaller scale stuff.

hope that helps.

[crazyjim]

I've tried to simulate wood grain by using several different colors of tan, light brown, dark brown, etc. It helps me to put a little paint into a small cup and put a few drops in seperate places in the cup. Then I can mix a little and get the different colors together.

For leather I use Testor's Model Master leather paint.

[E St. Kruiser50]

Is it possible to simulate wood-grain dashboards and leather upuhlstery in 1/24 scale? We know it's possible to simulate carbon-fiber and aluminum. It would be sweet if a company like either Scale Motor Sports or Bare-Metal-Foil would come up with wood-grain and leather.

I know we have wood colored paint, but it doesn't look like our 1/1 scale woodened dashboard peices.

I think my KS 500 SL calls for wood on the lower part of the dashboard.

This is a fun topic

Someone else here mentioned what I'm going to say.

Wet-in-wet painting is a method that oil painters use on their canvas, and is very affective creating woodgrain on any surface, even metal window frames and dashes on real cars, like was done in the 30's through the 50's.

I have done it several times and it "fools the eye". No one even guessed it was paint.

The leather...well - nothing like the real thing. I use an imported leather that comes in "Skins", but you can go to thrift stores and buy used women's purses and gloves. And leathers can be dyed and painted to get whatever color you want to match.

FYI - dave

[FujimiLover]

I think useing real leather would be too thick for models, particularly smaller 1/24 scale models. Might be suitable for 1/18's and 1/16's. But I doubt it'll work for 1/24. I'll have a look at SMS's web site and see if they have anything of wood-style. However, I dont' think wood is as popular as CF is.

[E St. Kruiser50]

I think useing real leather would be too thick for models, particularly smaller 1/24 scale models. Might be suitable for 1/18's and 1/16's. But I doubt it'll work for 1/24. I'll have a look at SMS's web site and see if they have anything of wood-style. However, I dont' think wood is as popular as CF is.

Well my friend you sound like quite an expert on the subject of scale leather interiors. That's pretty cool.

Maybe you'd have a suggestion on how I could have done a better job on this scratch-built all leather interior in this 1/25 scale Hollywood Graham that won a first at the GSL in 2005.

I could use any help I can get on this - dave

Edited April 23, 2009 by Treehugger Dave

[Fernando Roman]

Replicas & Miniatures and Detail Master both make wood decals. They are a little translucent, so I would recommend that you use a complementary color as a base. You should also clearcoat them before using.

Model Factory Hiro has a thin "leather" material that comes in several colors intended for upholstery. I bought it, but haven't used it yet, so I don't know how well it works. You can get it @ stradasports.com

Hope this helps

[Guest Davkin]

I like to use basswood. It has a very fine grain and won't "fuzz" up nearly as bad as basswood.

I have used a method for making plastic look like wood. Basically you use coarse sandpaper to scratch a wood grain into the plastic. Then brush Kilz 2 latex primer, (Walmart, in a can, don't get the spray) on the plastic and wait a day. Then all you have to do is basically stain the plastic the wood color you want since the primer will take stain in a similar way to wood, the "grain" will automatically capture more of the stain so it will appear darker. The technique takes some practice and experimentation so play with it.

This photo doesn't show it real well but the "wood" on this barn in this 1/87 scale diorama was done using the Kilz 2 method;

As for leather, I have my doubts that if you scale the grain down that the grain would even be visible in 1/25 scale.

David

[jbwelda]

well thats a pretty sharp interior there dave, no arguing that.

but more to the point, when i have attempted real leather, which has been rarely. its usually seemed too thick to really look right. then i read an article in a magazine much like our hosts, and the author was demonstrating how to thin the leather by slicing it and another trick or two to make it thinner. so i tried that and it turned out very nice. unfortunately its stuck inside a chopped top and you cant even hardly see it! probably shoulda opened the doors. doh.

[lonewolf01]

hey dave love the leather seats , but can you explain how you made the

tucks and rolls and with your leather do you have to thin it down?

[FujimiLover]

Well my friend you sound like quite an expert on the subject of scale leather interiors. That's pretty cool.

Maybe you'd have a suggestion on how I could have done a better job on this scratch-built all leather interior in this 1/25 scale Hollywood Graham that won a first at the GSL in 2005.

I could use any help I can get on this - dave

I am certainly no expert at all thus my reasoning for starting such a thread. Appearently, your the expert and I would've never guessed that was real leather? I just assumed the fabric itselfe would be too thick.

Will have to have a look at Hobby Lobby and see what they have for materials and maybe find something suitable and try it out! Are there any sticky-backed leather kit's?

[E St. Kruiser50]

I am certainly no expert at all thus my reasoning for starting such a thread. Appearently, your the expert and I would've never guessed that was real leather? I just assumed the fabric itselfe would be too thick.

Will have to have a look at Hobby Lobby and see what they have for materials and maybe find something suitable and try it out! Are there any sticky-backed leather kit's?

In this hobby of ours, you have to think "WAY BEYOND" hobby shops to reach a level of building anywhere beyond "BASIC", which is fine if that'd where you want to stay.

There is so much out there available to make this interest of our's so much more fun and enjoyable.

The leather I use is not much thicker than a cigaette wrapper, and comes in "FULL SKINS". It comes from the country of DENMARK , and is tanned in SWEDEN, and is very soft and stretches wonderfully around compound curves.

The wood??....We'll I buy mine from a rare wood importer and hand carve everything to shape - dashes, door panel moldings, etc. Zebra wood, Lignum vitae, cochabola, or I buy or make my own veneers.

Go to places that sell leather and wood as a business, and you'll discover a whole new world waiting for you - dave

[Jairus]

Scale Motorsports sells a Faux leather paint in a rattle can. What it does is create a textured finish that is the color of the paint. Great stuff by the way!

But you can do it yourself by spraying from a distance. The more you increase the distance of the nozzle (be it rattle can or airbrush) the "dryer" the paint lays down.

As far as wood grain, I have used real wood and decals and hand painted the grain using a dry-brushing effect. All work well depending on the application. You mentioned a dashboard so I would go with the decals in that application. Scale Equipment can set you up with a bunch of different colors.

Edited April 24, 2009 by Jairus

[FujimiLover]

Thank you guy's for your tip's and information. I will look into it the further my skills progress.