'49 Ford Coupe Mild Custom - updated 5/15

[Bernard Kron]

I’ve sometimes wondered why Ford cars have been so dominant in the world of rods and customs, at least through the mid 50’s when Chevrolet began giving the nameplate a run for its money. The conclusion I came to was partially because of the shear number of cars produced and Ford’s dominant position in sales until the postwar era. The V8 probably didn’t hurt either. But the another important factor was the incredible consistency and quality of design that Ford had during the pre-war and early postwar period.

Among the great Ford designs was the first “pontoon bodied†model, the ’49 Ford. It’s incredible simplicity and purity of line has meant that it’s become an amazing blank slate for everything from competition cars to ratted out rust buckets to full-on chopped, sectioned and channeled customs.

The recent re-release of the AMT ’49 Ford coupe kit has served to remind me of this great design. I decided that I wanted to create a cleaned up and focused version of the basic design, using classic customizing techniques such as shaving, molding and lowering and build a mild custom version. The idea I had was to conserve the iconic grille while simplifying and eliminating much of the heavy chrome on the front end. Using the rolled pan and bumperettes that came with the kit, here’s what I came up with:

Next came trying out the kit’s lowered front suspension setup. There is no lowered version of the rear suspension. The front end seems to come down just about right so the wheels tuck up into the wheel wells quite nicely. But the car has a decided rake to it, even when the front and rear tires are the same size. Here are 4 shots, with and without the kit’s fender skirts, raked and leveled.

I rather like the raked version without skirts. It’s very fresh and modern looking to my eye. I think of it in terms of modern mag wheels and blackwall tires with a big contemporary mill under the hood.

But when I started this project I thought in terms of a more traditional build so, for this go-round, I’ve settled on a simple mild custom lowered all around with rear skirts and whitewalls. It will be very simple, perhaps with the side trim conserved, although nosed and decked with rolled pans front and rear.

So, next is lowering the rear end and settling on a powerplant. I also have to decide on an interior treatment. The wheels are also an issue. I’m thinking something like Sombreros or Lancers. Sombreros I’ve got, Lancers I ain’t got…

Later I’ll build another version with the same grille treatment but with a modern high performance vibe, raked with open fender wells, etc. For now it’s Old Skool for me…

Thanx for lookin’.

B.

Edited May 16, 2009 by gbk1

[Foxer]

cool .. I like your thinking on this

[Raul_Perez]

Bernard,

You had to know that when I read "I rather like the raked version without skirts. It's very fresh and modern looking to my eye. I think of it in terms of modern mag wheels and blackwall tires with a big contemporary mill under the hood.", that I automatically thought of this:

Of your 4 profile shots, I like this one the best:

...but then I've never been a big fan of rear skirts...

I like this shot the best. It really highlights what you're doing in the front!!

Keep up the GREAT work and I look forward to seeing this and your '49 Ford with "a modern high performance vibe" sitting next to my '49 Ford SVT Cobra at the next NNL West!!

Later,

[Raul_Perez]

Bernard,

An option you might consider for this or the next build is using the drivetrain from the Revell '32 Ford kit. It all fits really easily and lowers the back end right down to the ground via the bagged rear suspension. Switching the left and right tailpipes gets you the inboard exhaust look and helps with routing the pipes around the bags and the shocks.

So, I guess it just depends on how "modern" you want the bottom-side to look...

Have fun!!

Later,

[stevegt738]

Off to a good start Bernard, i like the front treatment you have made for this. I did something similar about 15 years ago om a build that i never finished. I shortened and trimmed the grille bar to fit inside the custom opening, if i can find the bits i`ll take a pic too show you.

[stevegt738]

Here it is

Maybe i should finish this.

[Bernard Kron]

Thanx for the very helpful comments, guys! You really got my juices flowing regarding a contemporary build. So much so that it’s actually helped me clarify things regarding this Traditional build.

First of all, I’ve decided I am picking up another kit forthwith to begin a parallel Contemporary build! As I work through the Traditional build I’ll trial fit various aspects of the Contemporary one making decisions as I go.

For starters the hubcap thing has solved itself. The sombreros from the Revellogram ’49 Merc fit the tires I’d like to use on the Traditional build (T-49 from here on out) perfectly. They look great and I have them, so that’s that.

(click on picture for larger image)

Secondly, I looked over the kit OHV V8 and it’s apparently a Cadillac and really quite well detailed. It’s appropriate, comes with a nice set of triple carbs and period air cleaner, well engraved valve covers, and nice front accessory drive detailing. Again, I know it’ll fit “no stories†so I think I’m all set there.

Next, the rear suspension:

… An option you might consider for this or the next build is using the drivetrain from the Revell '32 Ford kit. It all fits really easily and lowers the back end right down to the ground via the bagged rear suspension. Switching the left and right tailpipes gets you the inboard exhaust look and helps with routing the pipes around the bags and the shocks.

…

So, I guess it just depends on how "modern" you want the bottom-side to look...

I’m sticking with the semi-elliptic leaf springs from the kit for T-49. I’ve already cut the leaf springs free and will make some lowering blocks today. It’s simple, period appropriate, and in keeping with the theme of the build.

But I did test fit the Revell ’32 Ford kit rear end and boy it’s amazing! It fits perfectly. It does slam the back end down pretty severely but that’s something I’ll deal with it when I get to the “C-49â€. I also tried out the ’32 kit wheels and tires. The look is just what I had in mind so, again, that’s what I’ll use. It will probably mean some work in the rear end, probably tubbing the rear frame area to allow for the wider rear tires. But I’m settling on a kind of modern, “engineered†road car vibe for C-49 so the rear end Raul suggested, along with the kit tires and wheels, are just what I want.

As a result I’ve settled on the Ford modular DOHC V8 from the AMT Phantom Vicky kit, which it looks like Raul used as well. It’s gonna be pretty daunting coming up with an engine compartment on the same level as Raul’s, but I’ll cross that bridge when I come it.

All this frees me up to keep T-49 on the straight and narrow: a simple no nonsense period mild custom.

[Bernard Kron]

Here it is

Maybe i should finish this.

You should finish it, it looks great!!! I was considering doing the same thing but settled on keeping the wrap around turn signals to echoe the shape of the bumperettes, much as they do the bumpers on the original. But for "C-49" discussed above, which I'm thinking may be totally bumperless, the tight contained look you got would be quite appropriate. Hmmmm....

Could you tell me a little about what was involved in frenching the headlights? What were you planning on using for headlight rings and/or buckets? Thanx!

B.

[stevegt738]

The headlights are just the stock ones molded in. The Chrome in this particular kit was atrocious, so i stripped all of it.

Here are some pics of where i got to when i boxed it.

Sectioned body, was trying to fit `66 Mustang fast back roof, but just could not get it right. So i put it away for another day. The rear is early `90s Mercedes, ###### what was i thinking .

[Bernard Kron]

The headlights are just the stock ones molded in. ...The rear is early `90s Mercedes, ###### what was i thinking .

No, no, the Mercedes back end would have been real sweet at the time. Obviously the grille treatment 300SL style must have been speaking to you... It all works well with the fine sectioning job you did. You can always cop out and make it a convertible. It's really quite well proportioned.

I'm trying to decide if I will french the headlights. I have to find a way to either keep or replace the chrome in the headlight buckets. I also wouldn't mind keeping a chrome ring inside the molded area... I'll have to think about that some more...

B.

[Bernard Kron]

I made some more progress. I got the rear end lowered to the proper stance and settled in to the whitewalls and sombreros.

Next up is deciding on which skirts to use. I modified the long skirts from the ’49 Merc kit by shortening them a bit and scooping out the leading edge. (These should really bug you, Raul, but they came in the parts box you sent me last year so it's your fault... ) They make the car look a little less “mild†in the customizing department. The kit skirts are the classic 50’s basic skirts that could be ordered with the car or easily purchased from JC Whitney or the like. They detract less from the basic lines of the car and blend in more. Which way should I go? Hmmmm…. Opinions welcome.

Edited April 28, 2009 by gbk1

[Foxer]

hmmm ... make a skirt flush with the bodywork? Carry the rolled bottom edge of the body straight through.

[stevegt738]

The stance is spot on for a shoebox Ford. I think some detatchable skirts (or Spats as they where once known as) that sat in the wheel well would smooth out the lines of the car a lot.

[Raul_Perez]

Next up is deciding on which skirts to use. I modified the long skirts from the '49 Merc kit by shortening them a bit and scooping out the leading edge. (These should really bug you, Raul, but they came in the parts box you sent me last year so it's your fault... ) They make the car look a little less "mild" in the customizing department. The kit skirts are the classic 50's basic skirts that could be ordered with the car or easily purchased from JC Whitney or the like. They detract less from the basic lines of the car and blend in more. Which way should I go? Hmmmm…. Opinions welcome.

OK, so now that we've gotten past the fact that I really don't like skirts on most cars, I do like the way the bottom line of this one flows with the overall shape of the bottom edge of the car.

I might try to reshape the top edge of the skirt (just a bit towards the back) to balance the line at the top edge of the skirt with the quarter panel feature that becomes the taillight surround... That might help it look more like it was designed to be an integral part of the car. Can you try something like that in PhotoShop?

It'll also be interesting to see this profile show with the rear roll pan in place if the pan extends the bottom outward slightly to give the rear of the car a bit of the slant that the skirt has.

Keep up the GREAT work, Bernard!! You know that this is my favorite part of model car building; creating custom designs...

Later,

[Bernard Kron]

Simpler is better. After considering this for a while I realized that to some degree I was losing my way, failing to “respect†the integrity of the original design. Plenty of time for a full custom later, and the skirt thing was rapidly taking me to that part of the spectrum.

First off I thought that Steve’s suggestion of “Spatsâ€, flush with the contour of the rear wheel opening would be something that would solve my conundrum – and indeed it would, resolving the conflict between the raised surfaces of the skirts I had been considering and the smooth flow of the body line in Ford’s original design. So I took off the skirts and whadya know, it looked great! Through Phun with Photoshop I decided to take it one step further and check out both options from side and front 3/4 views. Here are the results:

I’ve decided to use the KISS principle (Keep It Simple, Stupid) and leave the original wheel opening. With the rear slammed down it reveals just the right amount of wheel and tire and gives the car the tight integrated look that “Respects†the original the way the front grille work did. Incidentally, this pretty much guarantees I’ll open up the real wheel openings on C-49 to allow proper clearance for the wider contemporary tires I’ll be using. Otherwise the two will converge on each other more than I’d like.

I’m back on track towards my initial goal of using traditional customizing techniques and idiom to create a sort of idealized version of this great design, cleaned up, smoothed and lowered without stepping on the designers’ basic intentions.

Onwards!

Thanx for lookin’.

B.

[Foxer]

I like it

[Raul_Perez]

Simpler is better. After considering this for a while I realized that to some degree I was losing my way, failing to "respect" the integrity of the original design...

...I've decided to use the KISS principle (Keep It Simple, Stupid) and leave the original wheel opening...

Bernard,

Now you understand why I struggled so much when I customized my blue '49 Ford...when and where do you stop if you're trying to maintain the overall appearance of the original design?

Oh well, it looks like you've got it all sorted out for now and you're on your way to finishing another really cool model for your collection!!

Later,

[Bernard Kron]

Bernard,

Now you understand why I struggled so much when I customized my blue '49 Ford...when and where do you stop if you're trying to maintain the overall appearance of the original design? ...

Ironically, a very well balanced design is often one that can easily be ruined by some of the traditional techniques of the golden age of customizing. In the case of the Shoebox, generally speaking, less is better. For example, the unusually long rear deck profile actually works out well because of the curvature and slope of the rear of the greenhouse. Chop the top and all bets are off. The risk in this example is that the rear deck will look exaggeratedly long unless something is done about extending the greenhouse rearward. Similarly, sectioning the body can result in the greenhouse looking too tall. Starting down this path can be dangerous, one modification leading to another, etc. As you say, where does it end?

Edited April 30, 2009 by gbk1

[Raul_Perez]

...As you say, where does it end?

Well, the last time I modified a shoebox I ended up with a painted body that I haven't bothered finishing...

Maybe I'll follow your lead on my next one and leave the body pretty much stock. Hmmm...that sounds a lot like a salt flat racers to me!!

Later,

[LO51 MERC]

Hi Bernard. I have a trick I've used to french headlights using the stock headlight ring, and also have the chrome inside the ring and bucket. (I apologize if someone else said it above and I missed it!) It's really simple, you mold the stock bucket in place, sanding etc.. But, before you shoot any paint, mask the inside of the bucket! Use Silly Putty, clay or masking tape, or whatever will work for you. Then when you're through with all your painting, just remove the mask and you have your frenched headlights with chrome buckets! Gary

[Bernard Kron]

Hi Bernard. I have a trick I've used to french headlights using the stock headlight ring, and also have the chrome inside the ring and bucket. ... you mold the stock bucket in place, sanding etc.. But, before you shoot any paint, mask the inside of the bucket! ... Then when you're through with all your painting, just remove the mask and you have your frenched headlights with chrome buckets!

Thanx Gary. I just did exactly that using Tamiya masking tape. I haven't begun the molding work yet but will shortly. I really wish I had some Silly Putty or modeling clay - I would feel much more confident that I've got everything well protected. Something to add to my tool chest... The one thing that would've been better would have been to find a way to have chromed trim rings inside the frenched area. I'll save that one for a future battle.

B.

[LO51 MERC]

Thanx Gary. I just did exactly that using Tamiya masking tape. I haven't begun the molding work yet but will shortly. I really wish I had some Silly Putty or modeling clay - I would feel much more confident that I've got everything well protected. Something to add to my tool chest... The one thing that would've been better would have been to find a way to have chromed trim rings inside the frenched area. I'll save that one for a future battle.

B.

Bernard, you might try your local drug store toy area for Silly Putty and modeling clay. Mine has both. If you feel silly buying it (I did) tell the cashier it's for a little one. Gary

[E St. Kruiser50]

Ironically, a very well balanced design is often one that can easily be ruined by some of the traditional techniques of the golden age of customizing. Starting down this path can be dangerous, one modification leading to another, etc. As you say, where does it end?

Hey Bernard

I like the KISS method of building too, and having a plan, so you know what you want to accomplish.

"IF YOU DON'T KNOW WHERE YOU'RE GOING, HOW DO YOU KNOW WHEN YOU'VE ARRIVED ???

[Bernard Kron]

I’ve made quite a good deal of progress on this Traditional Shoebox mild custom. All went well until it started raining just as I was painting, so I guess there’s gonna be a lotta color sanding tomorrow! The body is in the dehydrator now so the paint gets good and hard!

The chassis is done, the engine built and that leaves the interior. Once I get the paint repaired and completed it’ll be time for BMF. Right now, with the paint drip and orange peel it reminds me of a lot of some very funky hopped up ‘49’s I saw in my misspent youth!

Below are some pics, including a comparison shot with a Contemporary version I’m building in parallel with this one as a result of Raul’s suggestion regarding the rear suspension. I’ve posted it separately ( http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=20025 ). Should be interesting…

Thanx for lookin’

B.

(Click on picture for larger image)

Edited May 5, 2009 by gbk1

[jbwelda]

so its the blue one youre building, right? i think it looks great how it is, but in general i noticed in the photos above i liked it best either just slightly raked (like it looks now) without any fender skirts, or, it sitting level, with the skirts. and of the skirts i like the small ones better but raul does have a point about how the big ones kind of flow with the design. my problem with them though is that they are too tall and cover the chrome strip. or even if you remove the strip, they would still look kinda heavy. i dig the way you relieved the front of those big skirts though, now if they were just sectioned some to get them to stay below the beltline.

its pretty interesting looking at your photos too, and seeing the side by side comparison. and thats rubber glue holding stuff together? and just wash it off?

nice project.