TAMIYA paint issues ???

[AMT4EVR]

Greetings,

               Last summer I painted five kit body's with this brand of paint, all kits were painted outside in the garage on nice warm days with two of the kits being old vintage  and the other three being new current issues and when done painting I allowed plenty of time inside the house to give the paint time to cure , I then placed the kits back in there boxes for building at a later date.

               Now, it is that later date and to my total dismay those painted body's have gone bad, the one old kit has lost it's shine and looks and feels like rough sandpaper the other four kits are in various stages from still shiny but crazed (like freezing rain on your auto) to a dull semi-sheen with blotches and roughness again.

               This I cannot figure out, they were all correctly washed, primed, painted with the same brand of tamiya paint products... so it's into a bucket of brake fluid we go and I start all over again, yikes !!

               And my second question is, do any of you use regular Rusty-O- (and 2X's) paint for your models ?? does it go down well ?  or what other brand of rattle can paint do you use and like to paint with.

               Your comments and help on this issue .... Please and Thank You     JOHN

                  

                

[LennyB]

John, that’s a shame, sounds like you did everything right. Only thing I can think of is maybe the humidity was too high and you had trapped moisture that took time to work it’s way our. I use Tamiya primer most of the time without issue.   
 

I won’t use Rusty-O on anything except maybe and old wheel barrel.  Had too many problems with cans that don’t spray and when they do spray go on too heavy.  I’ve heard people have good luck with Krylon which I used years ago but can’t can’t around where I live.  

[Dave G.]

Was it Tamiya primer in spray cans that you used ? And how long did you wait between priming then color coating ?

Yes, I've used Rustoleum 2x on models, in fact one of my chassis black enamels is their semi gloss black 2X. But I decant it, ad a slight bit more thinner and airbrush it. To spray from the can is a total bomb job, IMO. But some of the folks here have reported liking Krylon Short Cuts.

There is always Testor's enamels.

[Swamp Dog]

i use Rustoleum 2x & Krylon all the time with no problem, but its not for ever one.

[Dave G.]

Not sure you want to squirt a car body with Rustoleum 2X, then stick it in a closed up box to dry for a year, either. Seems to me that might be a bit futile. Just a thought.

 

[showrods]

A few things:

1.  You said:  "all kits were painted outside in the garage on nice warm days".  It's going to be warmer in the garage than it is outside.  This could be  problem #1 - it was probably too warm.

2.  As LennyB mentioned it could well have been too humid too.  Tamiya paints tend to lay down excellently unless there are mitigating circumstances.

3.  Were you using an airbrush or spraying from the can?

4.  Your post would seem to infer that the bodies were all perfect at the time that they were put away and that the problems occurred while they were in storage.  Is this correct?

5.  I would not bring freshly Tamiya painted bodies inside to off gas.  They can smell strongly for many hours afterwards.  I'd leave them outside in a well ventilated area for 24 hours. 

Edited April 6 by showrods

[stitchdup]

Are they metallic/pearl and did you clear them?

[AMT4EVR]

An answer to some of your questions,

    #3  All primer and paint was from tamiya rattle cans.

    #4  Yes, all body's were shiny and smooth.. until I placed them back in there boxes.

     NO, metallic/pearl/clear spray was ever used.

      So now, maybe I'am thinking after the body's get cleaned up again, I should only spray in the basement out of the elements as not to them harm anymore ? and as always, more comments are welcome.   THANKS     John

[Dave G.]

If I'm going to shoot Tamiya lacquer, though airbrushed, I use Mr Surfacer primer. Mr Surfacer primer is similar in nature to Tamiya primer. I then wait a couple of days, or even because life goes on, a month before I get back to color coating.. That lets the finish gas out before boxing up. I feel you had uncured paint on the model, be it primer when the color was sprayed or even the color, then boxed it up un vented.

I do often use a dehydrator though, about 30 minutes for Tamiya lacquers. 4 hours with enamels, and about 30 miinutes for acrylic.. Then a couple days of room air before boxing.

And your primer really needs to be cured good before color coating. Or it's going to try and gas out through the color, it may shrink more as well, thus wrinkling etc. Tamiya lacquer gloss colors take very well to about 30 minutes @ 108f in the dehydrator.

You can get plastic containers at Dollar Tree stores. And you can either make vent holes in the sides, or flip them over, placing over the model ( obviously no lid), slightly raised off the bench surface, so air can circulate around inside. A couple of guys over in the FSM forums, even utilized a light bulb and computer fan to create drying boxes from larger containers. The main thing though is air, so the cure rate isn't hindered.

Edited April 7 by Dave G.