LOBBS Posted August 18 Author Posted August 18 Got the base frame for the race hauler laid out in Solidworks. Not at all prototypically correct but I had to C-notch the frame to make clearance for the axles if I'm going to run the Super Singles on the trailer. The print that was passed along to me showed that the frame should be 17" from the ground but my axle centerline would be at 21" and I needed a few more inches to allow for suspension travel. I'm not replicating any particular brand of hauler but combining elements that I liked from several. They all seem to share similar proportions in their basic design of the exoskeleton. I'll likely end up 3D printing this once we get established in our new house next month. Not exclusive to this project but the I had searched high and low for larger opening wide hexagonal photoetch mesh material for my pro-touring projects and finally found some overseas that's a scale 3" on the openings. This will look great behind the grille of the LoneStar once I remove the vertical spines and in the front bumper opening. 3
LOBBS Posted August 23 Author Posted August 23 Reworked the frame to eliminate the C-section. I'll just draw up some major drop axles to get the clearance that I need to run the standard height super single trailer tires. I don't need to pass a DOT inspection 😅. At this point, I don't actually see myself using any parts from the Moebius Smooth Side but it's good to have for taking reference dimensions off of. I don't claim to be an expert at trailer design but I am working from a few images that I've been able to find of "unskinned haulers". The floor is aluminum 2x4s on 12" centers with 4x4s at critical junctions. Basically, I'm just framing it in like I would a house. The wheel house frames are 2x2s on 16" centers as will be most of remainder of the trailer's structure. For printing purposes though, I may model the walls and roof as solid pieces exterior to interior. Also, if there's interest, I'll go back in and rework the structure around the wheel wells to the proper proportions for the more correct low profile duals setup and save it as a separate configuration. I'd just have to lower the upper part of the framework and maybe make the opening length wise not quite as big since the tires will be of a smaller diameter. Now on to the fun stuff of fleshing out the actual "race hauler" part of the trailer. I've got 3 weeks before we move so I'm hoping to have this drawn up by the time we settle in and I can get my 3D printer set back up since I really can't do much in the way of physical building at the moment. 4
LOBBS Posted August 23 Author Posted August 23 (edited) Deck plate and flooring added. The math on the Featherlite print that I'm working from worked out to be .75" between whatever deck plate they're using and flooring materials. Almost looking like a real trailer now. Also went ahead and reworked the front corners for an 8" radius on the leading edge of the trailer. Edited August 23 by LOBBS 4
LOBBS Posted August 24 Author Posted August 24 (edited) Took a bit of a break this evening before getting the walls and roof shelled in. Next up will be adding detailing, the stabilizer legs up front and the between axle storage framed in so to finish up the exterior bodywork. My personal version will be a "double stacker" in the garage with a "full floor lift" so that I can have more living area in the front of the trailer. Basically, an internal four post lift would be able to raise a platform to make room for a lower car to be parked on top of the wheelhouses (slightly lengthened of course). Then I'll rollback the model some and draw up the more traditional fixed upper deck, lower workspace area. That one I'll likely put out on Cults3D or offer to print up to spec for the public. Edited August 24 by LOBBS 4
Rockford Posted August 25 Posted August 25 Clever stuff going on here. This will be an impressive finished piece. When I see the things you have to consider in design it builds my appreciation for the kit makers in the 70s!
LOBBS Posted August 25 Author Posted August 25 1 hour ago, Rockford said: Clever stuff going on here. This will be an impressive finished piece. When I see the things you have to consider in design it builds my appreciation for the kit makers in the 70s! I've been in Quality for almost 30 years now. Currently the QA manager for ProCharger Superchargers, for the next few weeks anyways before I go back into aerospace on the defense side in St. Louis, so working with prints and reverse engineering are a few skills I've picked up. It's definitely a process though. I've only picked up actual CAD modeling fairly recently helping out our engineering team when they got too busy or were shorthanded. You do gain an appreciation for what they were able to do with far less powerful tools at their disposal. 1
LOBBS Posted August 28 Author Posted August 28 (edited) On 7/29/2025 at 8:44 PM, vincen47 said: Yes, the A&N “Red American X15” is the accurate engine for the Lonestar. Specifically, it represents a 2014-2018 CM 2350 Cummins, the ISX15. The Auslowe “Signature” is a good representation of a slightly earlier Cummins, the CM 570, the pre-emissions Signature 600. It wouldn’t be accurate for a Lonestar, because Cummins made them from about 1998-2002, the successor to the N14 and the precursor to the EGR-equipped ISX-15, the CM 870. There were two additional ISX-15 engine variations that followed the original ISX-15 before A&N’s version, The CM 871 and CM 2250 (the first with a DPF) but they are close in detail to A&N’s later version. Currently, Cummins is making the next gen, the X15, CM 2450. One way to tell them all apart is the shape of the front timing cover. @vincen47 I happened to pick this one up when I was on ST Supply's site grabbing some CTM photoetch lights they had on sale. It's also an X15. Curious as to what variant it is, they said it's correct for a LoneStar or ProStar, but it's at least a Cummins instead of the MaxxForce. I don't believe it's the one that you had mentioned but I also know that it's not the Auslowe engine. Maybe it's a new contender? Edited August 28 by LOBBS
LOBBS Posted August 29 Author Posted August 29 It's been a few days since I had a chance to sit down and work on the hauler. Getting close to having the exterior done. Really just working out dimensions at this point. I'll have to break it up into separate parts to make a printable assembly model. 2
vincen47 Posted August 29 Posted August 29 9 hours ago, LOBBS said: @vincen47 I happened to pick this one up when I was on ST Supply's site grabbing some CTM photoetch lights they had on sale. It's also an X15. Curious as to what variant it is, they said it's correct for a LoneStar or ProStar, but it's at least a Cummins instead of the MaxxForce. I don't believe it's the one that you had mentioned but I also know that it's not the Auslowe engine. Maybe it's a new contender? Yes, a new contender, and that’ll be accurate for a Lonestar, if it’s indeed what’s pictured in the photo. I don’t have the ST Supply X15, but based on the image, it looks like the late generation cm2450 X15, made starting about 2018/2019. The Lonestar wasn’t discontinued until the 2024 model year (the last ones were made in December 2023), so that’ll make for an accurate late model 2019 and up Lonestar. Most importantly, it’s not a Maxxforce, as you said 😄. Any EGR-Equipped ISX-15, ISX15, or X15 will be accurate. 1
LOBBS Posted August 29 Author Posted August 29 31 minutes ago, vincen47 said: Yes, a new contender, and that’ll be accurate for a Lonestar, if it’s indeed what’s pictured in the photo. I don’t have the ST Supply X15, but based on the image, it looks like the late generation cm2450 X15, made starting about 2018/2019. The Lonestar wasn’t discontinued until the 2024 model year (the last ones were made in December 2023), so that’ll make for an accurate late model 2019 and up Lonestar. Most importantly, it’s not a Maxxforce, as you said 😄. Any EGR-Equipped ISX-15, ISX15, or X15 will be accurate. I'll take pics when it arrives and post them here 2
LOBBS Posted September 3 Author Posted September 3 (edited) @vincen47 here's that X15 from ST Supply. Not sure which of these pieces would be most helpful to help identify which variation it is. No instructions were included.... I'm not even sure what some of the pieces are. So, I suppose I'm just going to find as many reference photos as possible and wing it 🤷♂️. I'm guessing that I can saw the transmission off the Maxxforce and mate that up. Edited September 3 by LOBBS 1
LOBBS Posted September 3 Author Posted September 3 I brought the "X15" to work to look at it under magnification and it's actually engraved as an ISX15. In the upper left corner of the front plate, there should be more of a "pocket" or opening near the pulleys and under the upper portion of the timing cover from the pics that I've seen. It's like they modeled a beauty cover of some kind to hide it. In any case, it should be an accurate SOHC Cummins for the LoneStar. Now, I just have to figure out how to assemble all these little bits with a lack of knowledge on what most of them are 😂 1
vincen47 Posted September 3 Posted September 3 (edited) 12 hours ago, LOBBS said: @vincen47 here's that X15 from ST Supply. Not sure which of these pieces would be most helpful to help identify which variation it is. No instructions were included.... I'm not even sure what some of the pieces are. So, I suppose I'm just going to find as many reference photos as possible and wing it 🤷♂️. I'm guessing that I can saw the transmission off the Maxxforce and mate that up. Looks like a well detailed casting. With the timing cover and front emblem, it’s a cm 2350, the last version of the ISX15, before they changed it to the X15. It makes it about 2014-2018 model year. There was some overlap of a couple years between the introduction of the X15 and the discontinuation of the ISX15, when you could order either engine. They were nearly identical, just updated electronics, emissions, etc and a new emblem. So, it’s the same engine A&N offers. For reference photos, look for and google a 2015 or 2016 Cummins ISX 15 engine. There should be plenty of material, even ones in Lonestars. Edited September 3 by vincen47 1
vincen47 Posted September 3 Posted September 3 (edited) Oh and yes, the transmission from the kit will work well. It’s an Eaton 13/18 speed transmission. The 13 and 18 speeds are virtually identical, externally. One of them, I don’t remember if it was the Prostar or Lonestar, has a electronic push button dash shifter for the ultrashift transmission (an automated manual) and the other has a traditional floor shifter for a manual tranny. They’re interchangeable, and it’s possible that both kits include both options. I’d have to look at the kits this evening to be sure. The only difference on the transmission itself, is the presence, or lack of, the autoshift motors on the top of the transmission, and what type of shifter lever you choose to put in the cab. The Autoshift motors (shift pack part #149) are a separate part in the kit. Here’s the real part below: Of course, when it’s assembled, you can’t see it. But, if you’re like me, you know if it’s there or not. Edited September 3 by vincen47 1
vincen47 Posted September 3 Posted September 3 (edited) I took a look in both the Prostar and Lonestar kits just now, and both kits have the dash with the push button shifter, and both kits have the Eaton Ultrashift/Autoshift transmission shift pack motors (part #149). But, the Prostar also has a floor shifter as if it were a manual transmission. It could be omitted of course, to correct the issue. If someone wanted a manual transmission in either kit, simply omit the shift pack on top of the tranny, and add a traditional floor shifter in the cab. To go the extra mile, put another cup holder where the push button shifter is on the dash. Edited September 3 by vincen47 1 1
Rockford Posted September 5 Posted September 5 On 9/3/2025 at 3:04 PM, vincen47 said: Oh and yes, the transmission from the kit will work well. It’s an Eaton 13/18 speed transmission. The 13 and 18 speeds are virtually identical, externally. One of them, I don’t remember if it was the Prostar or Lonestar, has a electronic push button dash shifter for the ultrashift transmission (an automated manual) and the other has a traditional floor shifter for a manual tranny. They’re interchangeable, and it’s possible that both kits include both options. I’d have to look at the kits this evening to be sure. The only difference on the transmission itself, is the presence, or lack of, the autoshift motors on the top of the transmission, and what type of shifter lever you choose to put in the cab. The Autoshift motors (shift pack part #149) are a separate part in the kit. Here’s the real part below: Of course, when it’s assembled, you can’t see it. But, if you’re like me, you know if it’s there or not. I know exactly what you mean. 2
LOBBS Posted September 5 Author Posted September 5 On 9/2/2025 at 9:49 PM, LOBBS said: @vincen47 here's that X15 from ST Supply. Not sure which of these pieces would be most helpful to help identify which variation it is. No instructions were included.... I'm not even sure what some of the pieces are. So, I suppose I'm just going to find as many reference photos as possible and wing it 🤷♂️. I'm guessing that I can saw the transmission off the Maxxforce and mate that up. I reached out to ST Supply and thankfully they were able to hook me up with some instructions after all. They've been quick to respond to any questions I've thrown their way. I may get the Cummins together this weekend before I pack up my paint booth 1
LOBBS Posted September 7 Author Posted September 7 If anyone was curious how true to scale the STS ISX15 Cummins is, relative to the Maxxforce, yes, that is the kit oil pan on the 3D printed block. The mounting flange of the printed pan cracked while I was cleaning it up but this will suffice. I had to make a couple of passes with a file, maybe .010" total between both ends, and it fit like a charm. I don't know if they're that close in real life but I have zero doubts the Cummins will drop right into the same space as the kit engine. 3
vincen47 Posted September 7 Posted September 7 (edited) Block looks good, but the pics I’ve seen for lonestars have the oil pan flipped around with a rear sump for front axle clearance, being an axle-forward truck. ST’s instructions, along with a lot of other pictures online, probably show the engine oil pan set up for a set back axle truck, which is the case with the majority of trucks on the road today, but not the Lonestars and other long-nose trucks. I wish I would have thought about it ahead of time, but only remembered when you mentioned the clearance and using the kit oil pan. It’ll probably still fit, though. The kit instructions has the Maxxforce set up that way, which is incorrect, but it fits. Edited September 7 by vincen47 1 1
LOBBS Posted September 7 Author Posted September 7 6 hours ago, vincen47 said: Block looks good, but the pics I’ve seen for lonestars have the oil pan flipped around with a rear sump for front axle clearance, being an axle-forward truck. ST’s instructions, along with a lot of other pictures online, probably show the engine oil pan set up for a set back axle truck, which is the case with the majority of trucks on the road today, but not the Lonestars and other long-nose trucks. I wish I would have thought about it ahead of time, but only remembered when you mentioned the clearance and using the kit oil pan. It’ll probably still fit, though. The kit instructions has the Maxxforce set up that way, which is incorrect, but it fits. I may just have to live with the oil pan. It's super glued on 😅. I'll give it the ole college try to work it back off first though because it'll irk me knowing it "fits" but isn't correct. 1
vincen47 Posted September 7 Posted September 7 1 hour ago, LOBBS said: I may just have to live with the oil pan. It's super glued on 😅. I'll give it the ole college try to work it back off first though because it'll irk me knowing it "fits" but isn't correct. I understand that exact feeling. 1
LOBBS Posted September 7 Author Posted September 7 Happy to report that the surgery was a success. Spent way longer than I care to admit gently scribing the seam between the pan and block with a #11 blade enough to weep some acetone down to loosen the CA. I had intended to paint some of the components separately but realized there is zero positive location to some of the pieces, especially the pumps on the passenger side of the front cover, and I would have ruined any paint work getting it assembled. So, I'll pick them out as best as I can after I paint things red. I don't have Cummins red so I may lay down a coat of semi gloss black base coat, mask off some of the bits, then hit it with Tamiya Italian Red. The black under the red should shift it a shade or two darker. 4
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