1967 Mario Andretti Daytona 500 winner

[Bainford]

It's coming along nicely, Mark. I am impressed with your decal method. Sure is a lot of work, but you have done an amazing job of it.

[MarkJ]

11 minutes ago, Bainford said:

It's coming along nicely, Mark. I am impressed with your decal method. Sure is a lot of work, but you have done an amazing job of it.

Thank you, Trevor. When they came out with the low-cost way to use a laser printer and the ghost white toner to make white decals, I knew I had to get it and somehow learn to use it. I notice that Micro Mark no longer sells the printer or the ghost white toner. Must have had a lot of problems making people satisfied with their results. Luckily, they still sell the laser clear decal paper.

[Elrodbeckham]

its coming along nicely. 

 

beckham

[MarkJ]

2 hours ago, Elrodbeckham said:

its coming along nicely. 

 

beckham

Thank you, Beckham. Your interest in the build is very appreciated.

[MarkJ]

Filled in the voids on the hood and glued the hood shut. Just need to sand the void areas flush and I think I have to add a feature line to the hood on both sides to finish making it a stock Fairlane hood. In that ref picture below, you can see where the gold meets the blue at the bottom of the roof at the bottom corners of the back glass. It's barely perceptible.

[MarkJ]

Got the hood finished and made the fuel filler socket for the fuel filler and cap. Also installed lips on the wheel openings. All I lack now is a rear spoiler and sanding down the whole body to get it ready for primer. I tried to buy some rattle can tamiya white surface prime but my LHS was out of it so I bought some bottle Tamiya primer and will prime the body with the airbrush. bummer. I forgot, I also need to remove the wiper blades and arms. Never a fun thing to do.

Edited Tuesday at 11:03 PM by MarkJ

[MarkJ]

Got the rear spoiler mostly finished. Just some more sanding and add some end caps to it. Rechecked the trunk decal and it still will fit so no problem there. All I lack is removing the wiper blades and arms. Then I can sand the whole body and prime it. I found out that the primer I bought, even though it is acrylic, has to be thinned with lacquer thinner which I will not work with, so I realized that the primer right out of the bottle is thin enough to just brush on the body. Thats what I used to do anyway when I wasn't using the airbrush. It has to be sanded anyway so it does not need to be shot on with the airbrush. Looking forward to painting this build. the colors should make for a nice and unusual color scheme.

[Shark]

Hey Mark, should have remembered this earlier, but the windshield opening is not correct on this kit. The top needs to be opened up some, check it against pictures of the real car. Not a hard fix and the glass still works. I forgot how much I removed, but I used my steel calipers locked down and drug it across the top to mark it.

[MarkJ]

11 hours ago, Shark said:

Hey Mark, should have remembered this earlier, but the windshield opening is not correct on this kit. The top needs to be opened up some, check it against pictures of the real car. Not a hard fix and the glass still works. I forgot how much I removed, but I used my steel calipers locked down and drug it across the top to mark it.

Thanks, Todd but I don't need to get that picky on this build. I could tell when I was doing the decals that the model did not exactly fit the profile of the real car. They hardly ever do.. This is going to be one of those close enough for government work builds. a saying my dad use to always say who was a government employee.