1967 Mario Andretti Daytona 500 winner

[Bainford]

It's coming along nicely, Mark. I am impressed with your decal method. Sure is a lot of work, but you have done an amazing job of it.

[MarkJ]

11 minutes ago, Bainford said:

It's coming along nicely, Mark. I am impressed with your decal method. Sure is a lot of work, but you have done an amazing job of it.

Thank you, Trevor. When they came out with the low-cost way to use a laser printer and the ghost white toner to make white decals, I knew I had to get it and somehow learn to use it. I notice that Micro Mark no longer sells the printer or the ghost white toner. Must have had a lot of problems making people satisfied with their results. Luckily, they still sell the laser clear decal paper.

[Elrodbeckham]

its coming along nicely. 

 

beckham

[MarkJ]

2 hours ago, Elrodbeckham said:

its coming along nicely. 

 

beckham

Thank you, Beckham. Your interest in the build is very appreciated.

[MarkJ]

Filled in the voids on the hood and glued the hood shut. Just need to sand the void areas flush and I think I have to add a feature line to the hood on both sides to finish making it a stock Fairlane hood. In that ref picture below, you can see where the gold meets the blue at the bottom of the roof at the bottom corners of the back glass. It's barely perceptible.

[MarkJ]

Got the hood finished and made the fuel filler socket for the fuel filler and cap. Also installed lips on the wheel openings. All I lack now is a rear spoiler and sanding down the whole body to get it ready for primer. I tried to buy some rattle can tamiya white surface prime but my LHS was out of it so I bought some bottle Tamiya primer and will prime the body with the airbrush. bummer. I forgot, I also need to remove the wiper blades and arms. Never a fun thing to do.

Edited Tuesday at 11:03 PM by MarkJ

[MarkJ]

Got the rear spoiler mostly finished. Just some more sanding and add some end caps to it. Rechecked the trunk decal and it still will fit so no problem there. All I lack is removing the wiper blades and arms. Then I can sand the whole body and prime it. I found out that the primer I bought, even though it is acrylic, has to be thinned with lacquer thinner which I will not work with, so I realized that the primer right out of the bottle is thin enough to just brush on the body. Thats what I used to do anyway when I wasn't using the airbrush. It has to be sanded anyway so it does not need to be shot on with the airbrush. Looking forward to painting this build. the colors should make for a nice and unusual color scheme.

[Shark]

Hey Mark, should have remembered this earlier, but the windshield opening is not correct on this kit. The top needs to be opened up some, check it against pictures of the real car. Not a hard fix and the glass still works. I forgot how much I removed, but I used my steel calipers locked down and drug it across the top to mark it.

[MarkJ]

11 hours ago, Shark said:

Hey Mark, should have remembered this earlier, but the windshield opening is not correct on this kit. The top needs to be opened up some, check it against pictures of the real car. Not a hard fix and the glass still works. I forgot how much I removed, but I used my steel calipers locked down and drug it across the top to mark it.

Thanks, Todd but I don't need to get that picky on this build. I could tell when I was doing the decals that the model did not exactly fit the profile of the real car. They hardly ever do.. This is going to be one of those close enough for government work builds. a saying my dad use to always say who was a government employee.

[MarkJ]

Got the wiper stuff removed and capped the ends of the rear spoiler. Also smoothed off the body with the hand pads I show in the image below. I'm ready to prime today and the weather looks good for airbrushing outside next week. Probably paint the red on the sides of the roof first with a bristle brush. Mask it, shoot the gold on the roof. Mask that and then do the blue after figuring out how to mix the paint for it. Needs to be a little lighter than it is from the bottle. I might add a little silver metallic to it as well. Have to see how the just pearlized looks first.

[Kevinjr26]

Mark i see you are knocking another one out of the park! as always learn new things from you.

[Kevinjr26]

curious as to what acrylic blue basecoat you are going to use through the airbrush? 

[MarkJ]

5 hours ago, Kevinjr26 said:

Mark i see you are knocking another one out of the park! as always learn new things from you.

Thanks, Kevin. I'm trying to stay focused on this one but having a hard time because I'm really excited about my next build. Can't stop thinking about it and doing research on it when I should be concentrating on this one.

[MarkJ]

5 hours ago, Kevinjr26 said:

curious as to what acrylic blue basecoat you are going to use through the airbrush? 

Kevin, if you look about three pictures up in the thread you will see a bottle of it propping up the build for a photo. It's called Createx W304 Wicked Pearl blue. I really like these wicked colors they have. I used them on the Monte Carlo I did before this build. I believe I will just use a standard opaque red for the sides of the roof and the wheels on this model.

[MarkJ]

I might have made a huge mistake brush painting that Tamiya acrylic primer straight out of the bottle . I've never seen a primer dry that fast before. It really needed to be thinned with lacquer thinner but i can't use that inside my house. it's too strong an odor and my wife would have not been happy at all. Hopefully it will sand down smooth enough to where I can shoot the color over it. The description of the product by Tamiya said you can brush paint it out of the bottle if you want to. Take my advice, don't do it.

[MarkJ]

I tried smoothing the primer this morning with the hand pad and it did pretty good. I have had some acrylic primers in the past that never seemed to completely cure, and they did not sand out well. Instead of making dust when you sand them, they just scratch up and don't really smooth out. Vallejo primer is bad about that. Good news though. I found about a quarter of a rattle can of Tamiya white surface primer that I can use after I smooth out the bottle primer I have already used.

[Kevinjr26]

Ok I see it now and yes the wicked line of paint is hard to beat 

[MarkJ]

3 hours ago, Kevinjr26 said:

Ok I see it now and yes the wicked line of paint is hard to beat 

I agree. It has a nice iridescence to it.