1967 Mario Andretti Daytona 500 winner

[MarkJ]

1 hour ago, Kevinjr26 said:

Mark that is spot on yeah i have to build that one!

Kevin, I'm looking forward to you building it. This was the car in 1966 that got all the Chevy fans excited about Nascar again. 

[MarkJ]

Sanded down the small areas of the roof that need to be red and shot them with the air brush today but it's still not quite right. I will try the 6000, 8000, 12000 routine and see if that fixes it.  if not, I guess i just need to completely   remove any sign of the old paint or that horrible Tamiya acrylic primer I had to brush on that started this fiasco in the first place. If I can just get it down to bare plastic, I will just shoot the red to bare plastic and not prime it at all since I have no source for rattle can Tamiya white primer. My lhs has a hard time keeping up with their stock. Maybe the tariff stuff is keeping them from getting any.

[MarkJ]

The fine sanding pads worked so now I will mask them and shoot the gold on the roof and if that turns out okay, I will then mask that and shoot the rest of the body blue. I have started the chassis, and it should not be too much trouble getting it done.

[MarkJ]

Painted the wheels while I wait to get some cotton gloves to mask the roof sides so I can shoot the gold. I'm having a hard time getting the thin pieces of masking tape to stick and even using latex gloves keeps the masking tape from sticking to the back of masking tape that has already been applied. I saw a guy using cotton gloves to mask with, so I thought I would give it a try. I'm still waiting for my airtime to get out of jeopardy, but I was able to post one picture without getting too close to going over time.

 

[MarkJ]

Got the gold shot today and learned some things while doing it. When I shot the red, I mixed the 4011 thinner which Createx calls reducer at 2 grams of reducer to 5 grams of paint. and it did okay. I decided to go with 4021 reducer this time instead of 4011 with the gold and when I shot it, it was way too watery coming out of the airbrush. I made another batch at 1 gram of 4021 to 5 grams of paint, and it was just fine. The 4021 is advertised as a more free flowing reducer that eliminates air brush tip dry out and also gives a smooth finish instead of a gravely one which happens when the paint dries when it hits the body and doesn't flow out. I will be using the 4021 when I paint the blue parts of the model. This is the same gold I used on the Bobby Allison Monte Carlo and it still has the iridescence I liked so much on that model. I'm being really frugal with my photo posting so I can make it to the 22nd.

[Anglia105E]

3 minutes ago, MarkJ said:

Got the gold shot today and learned some things while doing it. When I shot the red, I mixed the 4011 thinner which Createx calls reducer at 2 grams of reducer to 5 grams of paint. and it did okay. I decided to go with 4021 reducer this time instead of 4011 with the gold and when I shot it, it was way too watery coming out of the airbrush. I made another batch at 1 gram of 4021 to 5 grams of paint, and it was just fine. The 4021 is advertised as a more free flowing reducer that eliminates air brush tip dry out and also gives a smooth finish instead of a gravely one which happens when the paint dries when it hits the body and doesn't flow out. I will be using the 4021 when I paint the blue parts of the model. This is the same gold I used on the Bobby Allison Monte Carlo and it still has the iridescence I liked so much on that model. I'm being really frugal with my photo posting so I can make it to the 22nd.

Really nice smooth finish on that gold roof Mark . . . I can see why you like that particular colour too.

Here are a couple of photos of the Ford Fairlane . . .

David

[MarkJ]

22 hours ago, Anglia105E said:

Really nice smooth finish on that gold roof Mark . . . I can see why you like that particular colour too.

Here are a couple of photos of the Ford Fairlane . . .

David

Thanks, David for stopping by. Always like all the ref photos I can get my hands on. That little guy looks like it might be 1/64 scale. Pretty good job for that scale. I won't even attempt a build a model that small.

[Anglia105E]

1 hour ago, MarkJ said:

Thanks, David for stopping by. Always like all the ref photos I can get my hands on. That little guy looks like it might be 1/64 scale. Pretty good job for that scale. I won't even attempt a build a model that small.

I wrongly assumed that both of the photos that I sent you were of real 1:1 cars. However, I think you are correct in saying that the second photo is a scale model car, but how can you tell that it shows a 1:64 scale model?

David

[MarkJ]

15 hours ago, Anglia105E said:

I wrongly assumed that both of the photos that I sent you were of real 1:1 cars. However, I think you are correct in saying that the second photo is a scale model car, but how can you tell that it shows a 1:64 scale model?

David

You can usually tell from the window net that looks way to big and fills the whole opening of the left side glass area. Also, the wheelbase isn't quite right, and the wheels and tires are too large but whoever made the decals for that tiny build did a magnificent job. My next build is going to be 1/16 scale and the model will be 10.5 inches long. Decals for that should be very easy. 

Mark

[Anglia105E]

1 hour ago, MarkJ said:

You can usually tell from the window net that looks way to big and fills the whole opening of the left side glass area. Also, the wheelbase isn't quite right, and the wheels and tires are too large but whoever made the decals for that tiny build did a magnificent job. My next build is going to be 1/16 scale and the model will be 10.5 inches long. Decals for that should be very easy. 

Mark

You mentioned your next build, and I find that 1:16 scale is a very nice scale in which to work. Having built my Dad's Ford Cortina MK I as produced by FROG in 1:16 scale, it was a real pleasure to go on to build the Gunze Sangyo Rolls-Royce Phantom III, also in 1:16 scale. The Ford Cortina was advertised on Ebay as a two door car, and the box art by FROG also shows a two door car. What I needed was a 4 door car that was my Dad's, and I saw an article online which stated that the kit inside the box is actually a 4 door version . . . This turned out to be true, much to my delight. The 1:16 scale model cars do take up a lot of space once they are assembled, especially the Rolls-Royce which is 13 inches in length, but I don't mind as these large models display so well. Of course, I would love to build models in 1:12 scale and even 1:8 scale ( Pocher ), but I cannot afford to purchase such kits.

David

[MarkJ]

6 hours ago, Anglia105E said:

You mentioned your next build, and I find that 1:16 scale is a very nice scale in which to work. Having built my Dad's Ford Cortina MK I as produced by FROG in 1:16 scale, it was a real pleasure to go on to build the Gunze Sangyo Rolls-Royce Phantom III, also in 1:16 scale. The Ford Cortina was advertised on Ebay as a two door car, and the box art by FROG also shows a two door car. What I needed was a 4 door car that was my Dad's, and I saw an article online which stated that the kit inside the box is actually a 4 door version . . . This turned out to be true, much to my delight. The 1:16 scale model cars do take up a lot of space once they are assembled, especially the Rolls-Royce which is 13 inches in length, but I don't mind as these large models display so well. Of course, I would love to build models in 1:12 scale and even 1:8 scale ( Pocher ), but I cannot afford to purchase such kits.

David

Thats true. When you get in those huge scales like 1/12 and 1/8, I don't have any shelf space to display them in. 1/16 is about the largest I will be able to handle for shelf space and it will probably be my first and  last 1/16 scale model if I am able to complete it.

Mark

[Shark]

You didn't mention what it's going to be, hopefully the 1/16 Petty Charger.

[MarkJ]

10 hours ago, Shark said:

You didn't mention what it's going to be, hopefully the 1/16 Petty Charger.

Todd, actually I was thinking about not revealing what it's going to be and not even having any text to go along with the build. Just start building it and let you guys figure out what it is. The topic name might be "Guess???" but it won't be in this forum. It will have to be in the  WIP: Other Racing: Road Racing, Land Speed Racers forum. There won't even be a kit involved. It will be my attempt at completely scratch building a model from styrene, parts from my stash, and maybe a little putty here and there. If I can build the tires and wheels, I feel that I can go on from that point. If I can't then the build will come to an abrupt end. But I have to finish the Fairlane first. 

[MarkJ]

Tomorrow, I get out of airtime prison and will be able to post more photos. I just can't go crazy with it and keep it to one or two photos per day. 

[MarkJ]

Getting into the chassis now. To remove the rear seat, you have to add a new rear bulkhead and reattach the package shelf to it but it's very flimsy, so you have to add a center support. I flipped the door trim from left to right so I don't have to remove all the armrest and trim panel garnish. you just need to drill holes where the handles poke through. You also have to remove the top of the door trim and add a new one to fill in between the door trim and the door and quarter panel at the top. I will eventually remove that excess plastic at the top of the new rear bulkhead and also fill in the stuff in the rear seat floor area. I was careful to let the rear fenders show through inside the rear of the car like the real car had it.

[Anglia105E]

I like your idea not to reveal what the car will be that you build in 1:16 scale Mark . . . Even better, is to build something from scratch, and just use whatever bits you can find in the stash boxes. Who knows where that might go . . . Good luck with the Ford Fairlane in the meantime.

David W.

[MarkJ]

Got some more done on the chassis. Added more filler panels to the interior tub and trimmed up the package shelf so it looks like it should. I can go ahead and mask the body and get it ready for the blue after I figure out a recipe for it that I can duplicate the same every time I need to mix some up.

[Volzfan59]

Looking great Mark!

[MarkJ]

3 hours ago, Anglia105E said:

I like your idea not to reveal what the car will be that you build in 1:16 scale Mark . . . Even better, is to build something from scratch, and just use whatever bits you can find in the stash boxes. Who knows where that might go . . . Good luck with the Ford Fairlane in the meantime.

David W.

Thanks, David. I agree. It just came over me one day to build a certain car that there are really no kits for and diecast kits for them are over 2000 bucks and I wouldn't want to build a diecast kit anyway. The only problem is I keep sneaking on to the computer to work on the next build when I should be working on the Fairlane. The reason it is 1:16 scale is the plan I'm making to build the model off of has to fit on an 8.5 inch by 11 inch piece of paper. The model will be 10.5 inches so it will just fit on that size piece of paper and that happens to make the model 1:16 scale. If I can make the wheels and tires for it, I think can do it, but if I can't, I will just throw in the towel and build something else.