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Posted
On 10/9/2025 at 12:47 AM, Straightliner59 said:

plausibility! 

Yup a good word - I like it

adjective

  1. having an appearance of truth or reason; seemingly worthy of approval or acceptance; credible; believable.

    a plausible excuse; a plausible plot.

    Antonyms: sincere, honest
  2. well-spoken and apparently, but often deceptively, worthy of confidence or trust.

    a plausible commentator.

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Thanks guys 

I have been a bit quiet here over the last couple of weeks - been busy with two weekends away with model related events. 

Most of my bench time in between has been spent prepping for paint but got a chance to start assembling the motor last night. First a small amount of dark grey wash on the motor and gearbox to get the effect of slight oil leaks. I used heavily thinned Tamiya dark grey. I will put a dab of clear at the ends so the oil leaks will look a bit fresher. image.jpeg.b1c1c029c106ea9cc57e2ebc1845b754.jpeg

While I had the was out I ran some in the door gaps of the interior that I have left in grey primer to look like stock grey velour

Also added washed around the door pockets

image.jpeg.410e10d45fbce043cc5ad347a4ab1861.jpeg

 

I have started motor assembly - starting to look the real deal

image.jpeg.b451c70c152bca99325384598078c27a.jpeg

The body and guards are at the body shop getting some wrinkles ironed out. Then off to the paint shop.

Thanks for looking.

 

 

 

 

 

 

  • Like 2
Posted

any chance you could share the blower source? it look very well proportioned for a 4 cylinder, so perhaps it was originally in a small engined kit?

i have a RMoM Scot blower which i believe would fit such an application in the event someone was inspired . . . 

looked through the thread again & couldn't find reference.

 

thanks

 

s.e.

Posted
12 hours ago, sidcharles said:

any chance you could share the blower source? it look very well proportioned for a 4 cylinder, so perhaps it was originally in a small engined kit?

i have a RMoM Scot blower which i believe would fit such an application in the event someone was inspired . . . 

looked through the thread again & couldn't find reference.

 

Hi Sid

I am not sure of where the blower came from - it was with a whole bunch of resin cast flathead stuff that was bequeathed to me. It most probably did originate from RMoM as I know they have one in their catalogue. The same source provided the Ardun head. Ardun and SCoT seem to go together hand in hand and the blower is very detailed

Bill

 

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Been away again - it was a long weekend last weekend here in NZ so modelling has taken a back seat

But - I have got the body prep done and some colour on before heading off. And clear this week

Paint is ancient from LMG given to me ages ago so thought I would give it a go. I was very thick and so spent a bit of time reviving it and thinning enough to airbrush

image.jpeg.45d7dc0ca39dc34e07fabd51a5646597.jpeg

I am using the blue as main body colour and SMS Super Silver on the guards. A typical 50/60's colour combo. I just did not want the hassle of black guards. I used the silver as a base coat under the blue for two reasons - a sealer coat for the green body and primer and as a base coat for the blue.

And the result. The clear will get a sand back and another coat before I hit it with decals

image.jpeg.f152c73ac377c473834d636c1ab63d13.jpeg

Thanks for looking 

  • Like 2
Posted

I have sanded to 3200g and squirted another coat of clear ready for decals.

 Decals gathered together. I raided my decal stash - hard to find as I don't have or build many competition cars.

The sources are varied

22 numbers and Bell decals from Johan 69 RR

Sponsor decals from vintage AMT Double drag team and 37 Chev.

Eat at Joes from Revell 29 Roadster - only modern decals usedimage.jpeg.35ce1c8f6d188f2bd52d2ec388663502.jpeg

And getting them on. One of the 22 numbers on the drivers side broke apart and needed some tlc to get it all back together. Used a lot of decal setting solution to help. The carrier film on the old decals id continuous and needs close trimming. Also quite heavy too but that may because they were made here in New Zealand way back when (69-70)

image.jpeg.98137a1371822bd77f6fb236ce9e05a7.jpeg

 

 

 

  • Like 4
Posted

Thanks Rusty

On with decals. Got some of the sponsor decals on - some were just too old and fell apart when transferring from the backing paper. Oh well that' what we get whenmessing around with old shite. Just enough to get by IMO. There is one I put on the boot lid but no pix yetimage.jpeg.258347a390b837804b9c7309e7e2b938.jpeg Mean time moving on with the wheels. I stripped the chrome from the fronts and painted magnesium. The rears I will leave in chrome - typical old timey mismatched wheels. I machined some rear wheel spacers - altered kit parts for the rear and ally for the fronts. Some more paint then onto assembly.

image.jpeg.6466e0f049a1ff5bd7ae0e0368f0d300.jpeg

Shown in the above are some finned brakes - I machined on my "big" lathe from ally and straight knurned them. Skinny for the rear and wider for the fronts. The backing plates are painted the red accent colour I am using

image.jpeg.031a3fb3a6b38d829c53990dedfd1e9b.jpeg

Thanks for looking

  • Like 3
Posted

Paint detailed the brake drum fins with some watered-down red flowed into the grooves then cleaned up when dry to make the drums stand out a bit. I also remade a wider set for the rears as I was not happy with the original skinnies I had made up. I also tinted the rear and quarter windows with some Tamiya clear red - no pix yet

image.jpeg.fc550a90924945de7b1c0c0b3eda5480.jpeg

Time for a mock up to see how the stance is going. 

image.jpeg.e0ea7471c5856498b3177a175e7c8c88.jpeg

There is a very slight rake going on here so I may look at lowering the back a little to get a flatter look and to get the wheels filling the fenders a bit better. I am happy with the front end though.

I am trying to get my head around the uncut top as most of my recent builds have had haircuts

The spare motor is in the front although I don't think I will need it😁 Any way it will be down on power compared the beasty banger in the car so can sit on the trailer for now

 

  • Like 3
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Meanwhile -

I have been slowly beavering away at this model - the deadline is closing in fast, so it is time to start getting it all together. I have fitted new rear motor mounts to take up the difference between the Monogram chassis and the Revell motor. And made a new one for the front too.

And fitted the pulleys and made some fan belts from some 0.5mm black wire - like plug wire but slightly larger.

  image.jpeg.39092665ea689a5df006ba26ce48b156.jpeg

image.jpeg.c415a60964f640c85c078537a037d14e.jpeg

 

Cleaned up some carbs and have adapted some electrical wire ferrules for the carb stacks

image.jpeg.e0eaa760fe00a8c737286edabb9eea28.jpeg

I have painted the carbs gold with the bases sg black - waiting for that to dry. Also polished up the stacks so nearly ready to put the motor to bed

Tonight's effort was to check fit the body and frame with motor. I expected a tight fit but not this tight - I will need to ring the butcher

 

image.jpeg.d43f604343e892946c98552832612e07.jpeg

Well the butcher has been and gone and this is what is he left.

image.jpeg.dfd6a82a93d0afffdb41d9a6768b40a9.jpeg

I will spray some primer around the hole to represent a newly butchered body to fit the new race motor. This motor is huge - well compared to a stock banger it is 

I have masked and painted the running boards with some Tamiya rubber black - again waiting for paint to dry 

Thanks for looking

 

 

  • Like 1
Posted

As part of research into getting the look right I came across this pix on the interweb after I had started this and it confirmed I was on the right track. Although this is most probably a resurrected survivor car with new running gear my model is about showing it off when all was pristine and new. I have yet to try a patina car - something to do in the future - maybe

image.jpeg.ae047d86f13b212b25ff77888b3e3068.jpeg

Getting on with assembly

Another view of the chassis with the body 

image.jpeg.8827023f363e84368ba8860d69ffdec9.jpeg

Carbs ready to be fitted. Painted gold with sg black base plates. The electrical wire ferules have been polished with metal polish.Height is a bit extreme but wasn't everything back in the day.

image.jpeg.bd4c1ee00dc3445c2fa1182df2a2674e.jpeg

And collection of a bunch of small things ready to go together. I have removed the headlights and horn from the headlight bar - who needs these on a race car anyway. The seats have had the belts picked out with sg grey and now need the belt hardware detailed with Molotow. The radiator core has been blacked out and the instrument cluster detailed all ready to go. The steering wheel had the holes opened out and painted ally with wood detail on the rim dry brushed with browns and then over coated with clear red.

image.jpeg.bfa1c299a4aff2b8d1647fea8b02e843.jpeg

Some small detail paint SNAFU's need a fix up before final assembly

Thanks for looking

  • Like 2
Posted

that engine is just so darn cute!

 

sorta sidebar: it was about 15 years ago when i began to notice the adaptation of "patina" on non-military (& railroad) vehicles. as momentum grew and the r@? rods took hold, i was convince that most of the rust & grime guys plastered on their models (automotive) was to cover mistakes in construction, lack of follow through on building a thorough job, and/ or poor planning. i still hold the was a goodly amount of that going on. but as the more in-tune modelers undertook the work necessary to follow real weathering, or the steps in a vehicle's life which would cause damage, i softened a bit to the addition of wear & tear.

yet, i still find it refreshing not to have to look through rust & grime in order to see a nicely built auto. 

i mean, most of us are not trying to duplicate battle damaged or weather beaten, tanks.

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