33 Chopped Willys, 3D Body, what now?

[Mike Holland]

Hello folks,

Just received this one in the mail.  Not my 1st, 3d body from this fellow, just 1st time receiving 3d body/parts like this!  Needing oxygen and stress relief after viewing the quite expensive contents. The designer was not the printer, another fellow did the printing.

Granted, having countless 3d parts, motors and such, haven't received one like this, yet. Oh boy, some serious hacking needed here.

Also in the box, the custom fenders, chassis and Ford 9" rearend. Plan is a very low riding custom car/drag car. Not building this one yet, will be my next project. One at a time. Thoughts?  How do YOU clean this mess up?

Mike..

 

 

[stitchdup]

5 minutes ago, Mike Holland said:

Hello folks,

Just received this one in the mail.  Not my 1st, 3d body from this fellow, just 1st time receiving 3d body/parts like this!  Needing oxygen and stress relief after viewing the quite expensive contents. The designer was not the printer, another fellow did the printing.

Granted, having countless 3d parts, motors and such, haven't received one like this, yet. Oh boy, some serious hacking needed here.

Also in the box, the custom fenders, chassis and Ford 9" rearend. Plan is a very low riding custom car/drag car. Not building this one yet, will be my next project. One at a time. Thoughts?  How do YOU clean this mess up?

Mike..

 

 

dip it in HOT water, then carefully start removing the supports. if you keep dipping in the hot water they remove with less scarring. 

[Mike Holland]

Thank you, Les. How hot the water? Like from the faucet? Which, in my kitchen, can't touch it. Will this be enough?  Or, rather a pot of water, real hot, like cooking noodles? 

Please excuse, having knowledge about 3D motors and such, just never have dealt with the sprue leads like this before. Hence, having zero knowledge with this degree of unknowns.

Thanks much for your help, immensely appreciated.

Mike..

[Spex84]

That's what all 3D printed parts made with SLA resin printing technology look like before the supports are removed. The supports can help prevent warping and support the body during handling and shipping. That body looks totally fine.
The warm water (not painfully hot, we don't want to boil the model or our fingers) will help the supports break free without leaving little pucker marks.

The other way is to clip as many supports as you can reach and gently wiggle/twist the parts until they break free. Get yourself some sprue clippers (photo attached) and get clippin'! 
 

 

Edited 11 hours ago by Spex84

[FoMoCo66]

Yup, thats a cool body and looks to be nice quality. The supports are there to help it stay in place while it essentially grows off of the build plate.

[Mike Holland]

47 minutes ago, Spex84 said:

That's what all 3D printed parts made with SLA resin printing technology look like before the supports are removed. The supports can help prevent warping and support the body during handling and shipping. That body looks totally fine.
The warm water (not painfully hot, we don't want to boil the model or our fingers) will help the supports break free without leaving little pucker marks.

The other way is to clip as many supports as you can reach and gently wiggle/twist the parts until they break free. Get yourself some sprue clippers (photo attached) and get clippin'! 
 

 

Hello Chris. Thanks for the info. There being still, a void along the bottom of the body where the running board would be, left side, just in front of the rear 'fender area'. Not a problem, I can fix this up. Now I understand about the warm water deal, thanks much for the info. Also the clarification concerning shipping/packaging issues. Now I get it. After paying $100 for this stuff, was not expecting the delivered project to be like this!!  I have small clippers. Also, I like my trusty, diamond-coated separating disc, 1.2 " wide, quite thin, mounted in my hand held micro-motor. At 20k RPM, will slice through like butter. Chris, like many things in modelling, if you don't know, just ask. But geez....so much cash for such an object, has me wondering?  However, the 2nd load of the same caliber, has the fenders and a chassis, plus a Ford 9" rearend housing. So, hoping to have not been severely ripped off. OK, I'm in Europe, so guessing am supposed to be wealthy? Laughing myself now.  Thank you for your input.  Mike..

[Perspect Scale Modelworks]

That cutting disc might be too aggressive.  The hot water should be enough. Not boiling hot, just hot enough to touch. Sometimes 3d prints can be brittle and getting too aggressive can cause cracks and breaks.

[Mike Holland]

@Elliot, thanks for the interesting presentation. I haven't a clue about 3D printing but love your short video..

Edited 9 hours ago by Mike Holland

[Mike Holland]

25 minutes ago, Perspect Scale Modelworks said:

That cutting disc might be too aggressive.  The hot water should be enough. Not boiling hot, just hot enough to touch. Sometimes 3d prints can be brittle and getting too aggressive can cause cracks and breaks.

OK. I've been using such thin discs with a hand held micro motor for 50 years (dental). The 3D medium is new to me, I agree though the disc is overkill. I had no idea the thin sprue leads were so temp sensitive. My plan is now is to snip off the leads as far as I can get into the object, then start a slow dipping procedure in relative warm water and slowly start twisting the object around. Starting with the hood, which seems quite thick. Thinking step by step to get the feel of things. This is all new to me, thanks much for your input!  Mike..

[stitchdup]

6 hours ago, Mike Holland said:

Thank you, Les. How hot the water? Like from the faucet? Which, in my kitchen, can't touch it. Will this be enough?  Or, rather a pot of water, real hot, like cooking noodles? 

Please excuse, having knowledge about 3D motors and such, just never have dealt with the sprue leads like this before. Hence, having zero knowledge with this degree of unknowns.

Thanks much for your help, immensely appreciated.

Mike..

a little hotter than you would use on a warped plastic part, you want to be able to hold your hand under the water. if your faucet is hot enough that would work ubt if not a little boiled water in the sink works too. the supports will still remove without the water but this gives less scarring/pimples

[stitchdup]

4 hours ago, Mike Holland said:

OK. I've been using such thin discs with a hand held micro motor for 50 years (dental). The 3D medium is new to me, I agree though the disc is overkill. I had no idea the thin sprue leads were so temp sensitive. My plan is now is to snip off the leads as far as I can get into the object, then start a slow dipping procedure in relative warm water and slowly start twisting the object around. Starting with the hood, which seems quite thick. Thinking step by step to get the feel of things. This is all new to me, thanks much for your input!  Mike..

dont twist the body, the resin could crack as its not strong. instead supposrt the body best you can, then twist the supports