hellonwheelz3 Posted June 26, 2009 Posted June 26, 2009 I have an airbrush, of which i can't remember the brand. I bought it at a hobby shop for like $40. I know, its a cheapy but its my first one. I do definitely plan to upgrade in the future when the economy comes out of the dumpster, and i get myself...well....a job. Ok so here's my question. With my cheapy airbrush, the paint has a tendency to clog in the bottle. Can I put a drop or two of thinner in there, just to loosen up the paint and let it flow through the pickup tube easier? any tips on this? And while im here, has anyone used the "markers" that testors has out? are they worth anything? what have you used them on. Thanks in advance.
diymirage Posted June 26, 2009 Posted June 26, 2009 I have an airbrush, of which i can't remember the brand. I bought it at a hobby shop for like $40. I know, its a cheapy but its my first one. I do definitely plan to upgrade in the future when the economy comes out of the dumpster, and i get myself...well....a job. Ok so here's my question. With my cheapy airbrush, the paint has a tendency to clog in the bottle. Can I put a drop or two of thinner in there, just to loosen up the paint and let it flow through the pickup tube easier? any tips on this? And while im here, has anyone used the "markers" that testors has out? are they worth anything? what have you used them on. Thanks in advance. as long as the paint you are using is oil based you can use thinner to make it flow better as a rule of thumb, the more thinner you ad the glosier the paint will become so keep that in mind when working with water based paint (acrylics) you can ad water one more thing, does your airbrush have different sized nozzles ? because if it does, that might be your problem. i would use the medium nozzle (that what i use on my airbrush and i run tetors lacuers traight through it)
MikeMc Posted June 26, 2009 Posted June 26, 2009 In order to brush properly the paint must be the right % of paint and thinner(or reducer and thinner) when mixed correctly the paint is like milk...swirl milk in a glass and see how it flows back to the bottom... thats what you want for airbrushing....and check your needle and psi. It all counts I recomend Bob Downies airbrush book...Donn Yost also has a killer DVD!!
LoneWolf15 Posted June 27, 2009 Posted June 27, 2009 You failed to mention what type of paint you're using. Rule of thumb... 2 parts paint to 1 part thinner as a starting point .Depending on your initial results and paint product , you might have to make slight adjustments to the ratio . I have never used acyrlics so I am of no help there . Laquers and enamels have always worked for me using the aforementioned ratio. As for the pens , forget it , they are useless as far as I am concerned. They are a childs toy, nothing more ! From the sounds of it , you are just starting out so let me give you some advice. Put your money into your equipment first , your kits , second ! Having good equipment will make the learning curve come much easier and quicker. Cheap equipment , more often than not , leads to a less than satisfactory finished model . Donn Yost Lone Wolf Custom Painting
nitrojunkie Posted June 28, 2009 Posted June 28, 2009 I have to agree with lonewolf invest in good equipment first and foremost.Secondly I would use lacquers minimum for most body painting and acrylics for everything else.I use very little to no enamels.When mixing paint the main thing to remember is if you get it too thin you can always add paint back to the mixture to thicken it up if needed.I use automotive paints my self and I have started playing with lacquer as a clear for a cost savings.I use mostly House of Kolor base coats and Kandies.My airbrush of choice is an IWATA Eclipse HP-CS.
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