nitrojunkie

I'll second this statement. I got to meet Mr Stillwagon at the CKM show last month. I had questions about his Starliner F/C.Paint to be exact and he told me the tricks he used on it.Very nice man.

Thanks for the kind words Ed.I enjoyed seeing the gas stations and look forward to seeing the one you are working on now sometime in the future.I did not know the Shell station was here in NC let alone so close.I plan to go see it soon since it is only about 1 hr up the road.For those of you that have seen these gas stations you should look at the information in the binders that accompany the models they have some very neat stuff in them about the stations and the construction of the models and real things.Interesting reading.

Well I bought the Pearl Green Murcielago raced the first time Tuesday night in Mooresville and had a blast.I have added bearings and the Kyosho ball diff.I want a 917 next.This is way better but more frustrating for noe than slotcar racing.It has been well over 20 years since I raced any RC cars let alone on a roadcourse.But each heat I got a little better.I am nor ranked 80th in the world it looks like we are a very small group at the moment.I think if Kyosho will market this right it could get huge.Qon how are you doing? Getting enough coffee????

Scott thanks for the great show.Hopefully we'll see you guys in a couple of weeks at our show in Conover..Bill thank you for sharing your smoking tips with me on the ford F/C while you were packing up. I gotta try that technique out real soon.Again guys thanks for the show and the tips.

Its a done deal We'll see you then.

You got 2 of mine on the next to last page.The F1 car and the red willys gasser.It was a fantastic show I know what I have to do to step it up now for sure.

Our show is Sept 26,2009 2009_20FPP_20Fall_20Classic_20flier_1_.pdf

Yes you can sharpen blades I do it all the time.Get a white Arkansas stone.You can use a sharpie to mark the edges of the blade to see your progress.It will take a few tries before you get the hang of it but it can be done and you should be happy with the end results.You can also try a very fine diamond type hone it will actually work faster.

I'll be there!

Well I finally got the Willys finished.I ended up just redoing the side windows until I got them acceptable.

Check this out...http://www.coastairbrush.com/proddetail.asp?prod=ECL4500 For just a little more than the above posted price on the Talon of $95.00 The IWATA is also equipped with a teflon needle seal making it solvent proof.

I'm probably gonna step on toes with this I appologize in advance...There is only 1 airbrush thats an IWATA.I started with a Paasche H,moved to an Aztek then to a Paasche VL set and finally to an IWATA Eclipse HP-CS. If youve seen Mike Lavalle or Ryan "Ryno" Templeton paint chances are this is what they were using.It is very easy on paint being gravity fed and is also a breeze to clean between color changes.I shoot everything through it,Urethane clears,Base coats,Acrylics I have shot some primer through it but very seldom.I use rattlecan primers.

Looks good.The side windows in the Willys are giving me a fit.Trash fisheyes.I think I'm gonna get a pak of Par Light Gels and be done with it.Then I'll be set for several colors for a while.

Yeah here in NC $20.00 tops and that is on the high side. Were you using actual filler with hardner or that lacquer based tube stuff?

Even if she did come with the package you may not want all that comes with her! Mark thats a piece of hometown trivia I did not know; as far as the free concert.

Thanks for the History lesson and the pictures.Most of all thank you for staying active in the hobby and sharing your work.

1,Trust me you want to use their reducer. I have used lacquer thinner before and got away with it but I don't recomend it and don't do it anymore. 2,I use Duplicolor Lacquer Primer filler and their primer sealer both in gray.I also use their white primer all lacquer have had no problems as long as the plastic is properly prepped. 3,With HOK's BC & FBC metallic bases clear should be applied within12 hrs if not apply SG-100. I have waited 24 hrs on models with no problems,I usually put SG-100 over all base coats let it dry decal if required let dry overnight and clear ASAP next morning. Reducers: The HOK reducer is used in all of their products other than their lacquer system.I use RU-311 extensively but depending on your conditions you may need one of the others. RU-300 70-80 Degrees F RU-310 65-75 Degrees F RU-311 75-85 Degrees F RU-312 85-95 Degrees F used in warm humid conditions to increase flow time and leveling. Short and sweet stays sticky longer, better be in a clean environment or dustnibs galore.

Looks good so far.What kit did you start with?What color do you have in mind for it?

Looks good.I have been thinking about using a white glue for a liquid mask also,it would be cheaper but I have to do some testing.I'm not sure if it will hold up to some of the stuff I use.

it was a pretty hot/humid day and it glassed out pretty well. The humidity actually helps it kick faster.

Welcome to the group and those are very nice builds.

As Dave stated above the House Of Kolor line is a very well engineered system and is for the most part a totally compatible system.I love the UC -35 Klear and have used it on models before but for me its overkill for my models.However it is probably the best clear available today.My most involved paint job so far was my Honda Civic Hatchback that I did in Oriental blue Kandy over Silver white Marbelizer with the Kandy mixed in SG-100 and cleared with UC-35.Now no doors were opened up or anything other than the hood as supplied in the kit.But I completed this (once the black sealer had cured as specified in the tech book )in about 2 1/2 hrs.A word of caution when using UC-35 you have to spray an adjacent panel of some type to check the condition of the clear in its flashing stage." The paint (clear) should be sticky and not string when touched at the wettest point before the next coat is applied."What this means is you stick your finger or something into clear that was applied at the same time as your car if when you lift it it does not leave spider web looking strings you are ready to apply the next coat you must touch a new spot everytime when monitoring for this stage.Too soon you have a risk of solvent pop.Too late and it will lift or wrinkle, at that point its trashed! Here is a pic of the Civic it has been posted before on this forum.

Shane, see other than the initial cost its pretty simple isn't it.Once you actually sit down and figure the cost over the long run it is actually cheaper than model stuff. just did my Big John Mazmanian Willys yesterday with 1/4 oz of mixed clear.Thats over 200 1/24th or 1/25th cars for the money.

The Floquil paints are great I use the Engine black for resin tire sidewalls and the Grimy black for the tread areas.Most well stocked hobby shops should have them.

Ive used Parma's before with mixed results and the microscales micro mask. It is good stuff but takes practice to get it to work exactly like you want it to.It needs a brand new #11 blade to cut it make sure it drys good before trying to cut it .I apply it with a soft brush and in several coats and let it dry over night to be safe.I hopr this helps and good luck.