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Posted

Hey there. I am converting the mean n nasty camaro kit over to hopefully pro mod I am thinking. I have cut off the hood scoop and will be scratch building a raised rood section for the new scoop to sit on. I am also starting to fabricate the rear wing. I have removed the front cowl opening for a screen. I have molded the body together as one piece. Now, I have a slew of tech questions. LOL. I hope you can help me some. First things first since I am very eager to try a custom paint job on this. Are the windows "bolted" on simular to a funny car body? Now, for some other quick questions, what are the main differences between the pro street and the pro mod? I know the rear wheelie bars are different. Also I know the rims tend to be bead lock ims and the fronts tend to be the comp 5 star rims. Are the rears totally slick, or would the treaded firestones be fine? Basically, I need to know what I need to do to this kit to do the conversion. Again, I am not exspecting all of the answeres, but I would greatly appreciate any help you can give me. Thanks. Jody

Posted

Yes the windows are screwed in , Yes the rear tires are slicks, The mean and nasty camaro kit is basically a late 80's pro stock in "Street" guise. Add a funny car cage and a few other mods to it and you're on your way to a modern pro mod. the chassis is a pretty good platform to start with. do some research on the net for so detail shots of some current chassis set ups...

Posted

Jody, here's my two cents for you. Remember modeling is a matter of interpretation and allows you to utilize your imagination for whatever project you are working on. Now, if you are after an accurate look for todays style of Pro Mod then you have to follow a few simple rules.

The body style you are choosing would have fit fine into the class known as Top Sportsman from the 80's, into the early 90's. This class was the precursor to what we know now as Pro Mod. There were a lot of wild bodystyles that were, in some cases, almost unrecognizable. The wheelbase, however pretty much stayed put for what would be a Pro Stock class car.

For today's style of pro mod you have the option of increasing the wheelbase to what would be a scale 113' to 115' wheelbase with an added limit for how much the front end could extend past the front wheel centerline. You could go with a chopped top but if you do you have to remember that the blower hat or hoodscoop cannot extend past the top of the roofline.

The chassis for todays modern pro mod is primarily a double rail system which basically would look like you ran a funny car chassis through the interior and into the engine bay while still retaining the basic pro stock chassis.

You can go with a blower motor, nitrous combination or turbo charged system.

Or you can say the heck with the rules and build your model any way you want to.

As far as your other question about the difference between Pro Street and Pro Mod. I'm assuming you are referring to the NMCA class designation of Pro Street. If that's the case then there is no difference between the two, except for a few minor differences in rules.

Hopefully this helps and mind you that my data is not 100% accurate but the best that my brain can retain most of the time.

Posted

I love the way you put that! Ill show a pic of what I have at this moment. I am thinking I may have made the cowl to high? Or if not, perhaps I should go with a lower profile scoop? What do you guys think? Thanks. Jody

HPIM2462.jpg

HPIM2461.jpg

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Posted
You may want to read this:Pro mod discription WIKI It may help clear some things up.

For a true pro mod look, I think that you need to take a "pie-cut"out of the body through the front bumper. (Is that the right term?)

Again, it depends on what era of Pro Mod a person would be looking to build. Most later body styles pretty much have a "Wedge" shaped profile for the purpose of aerodynamics.

And Jody, as I stated above, it's personal preference as to how accurate you want your build to be. That being said your cowl scoop is just fine. But, if accuracy is what you are after you would have to ask yourself, if this were a real car would the driver be able to see past the scoop? It's totally up to you.

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