Emily Posted August 22, 2009 Share Posted August 22, 2009 I sprayed my car with candy apple red Testors paint, with a silver basecoat. since it was my first time, i messed up. i tried sanding it down the next day, but its hard to get into the ridges and to make bubbles go away. any advice? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
george 53 Posted August 22, 2009 Share Posted August 22, 2009 Em,(that's what I call my Granddaughter) Get some Simple Green from K-Mart an soak the body in it, It'll take a few days to strip, BUT it's MUCH SAFER that Purple Power, or brake fluid.AND it WON'T EAT YOUR SKIN! Those other solvents WILL hurt you. When it's done stripping, wash the residue of with water an jus try it again! Just be patient, It'll come to you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lonewolf01 Posted August 22, 2009 Share Posted August 22, 2009 I sprayed my car with candy apple red Testors paint, with a silver basecoat. since it was my first time, i messed up. i tried sanding it down the next day, but its hard to get into the ridges and to make bubbles go away. any advice? looks like the easiest way would be to go the purple pond route and start over Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Gramps-xrds Posted August 22, 2009 Share Posted August 22, 2009 Bout the only thing to do now is strip it and start again. There's several ways to strip paint. purple pond simple green oven cleaner brake fluid Diluted acetone And the list goes on. Prob the easiest is either oven cleaner (costic ) or the purple stuff everyone uses or brake fluid. Whatever you use it'll need to be washed really good and re-sanded and primed again. The big question is Did you learn anything the first time. I'm guessing from what you said about it having bubbles you had the can toooo close and put too much paint on or you didn't wait long enough before you applied the color coat. Bubbles are caused from the gas being trapped in the paint. All you can do is try again holding the can about 10 in. to a foot away. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlzrocks Posted August 24, 2009 Share Posted August 24, 2009 (edited) Emily, After the body is cleaned up. re-spray the silver base and let it cure for 24 hours, then when spraying the candy hold the can about 10 inches away and MIST A VERY LIGHT FIRST COAT.....and I MEAN Light coat, let that set up for at least 12 hours, then spray your second coat with a medium sweeping motion. Let that coat set up as the previous one. If you don't let the paint cure sufficiently you will get an orange peel texture to the finish. Then if you feel you need to go darker, apply more coats. The reason for the first very light mist coat is to get the paint on the edges without it pooling or running down. Light coats work better than heavy ones with candy paint. I did my body over the weekend and overcoated to compensate for the light edges and the car came out a beautiful candy MAROON! Much darker than I anticipated but I did use a gold base coat as well. It was my first try at using candy paint as well! The whole thing with candy paints is that you are actually spraying a color tinted clear coat over silver so that it gives the appearance of a candy apple (without the nuts, unless you have a very dusty work area). Good luck and let us see the results! I have a good feeling about this project of yours! Edited August 30, 2009 by charlzrocks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Emily Posted August 24, 2009 Author Share Posted August 24, 2009 Emily, After the body is cleaned up. re-spray the silver base and let it cure for 24 hours, then when spraying the candy hold the can about 10 inches away and MIST A VERY LIGHT FIRST COAT.....and I MEAN Light coat, let that set up for at least 12 hours, then spray your second coat with a medium sweeping motion. Let that coat set up as the previous one. If you don't let the paint cure sufficiently you will get an orange peel texture to the finish. Then if you feel you need to go darker, apply more coats. The reason for the first very light mist coat is to get the paint on the edges without it pooling or running down. Light coats work better than heavy ones with candy paint. I did my body over the weekend and overcoated to compensate for the light edges and the car came out a beautiful candy MAROON! Much darker than I anticipated but I did use a gold base coat as well. It was my first try at using candy paint as well! The whole thing with candy paints is that you are actually spraying a color tinted clear coat over silver so that it gives the appearance of a candy apple (without the nuts, unless you have a very dusty work area). Good luck and let us see the results! I have a good feeling about this project of yours! thank you! thats really helpful!!!! the only problem im STILL having though is getting OFF the paint... i tried oven cleaner [total failure] and its been sitting in brake fluid for over 24 hours, and still is [nothing is happening] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maliburacr Posted August 24, 2009 Share Posted August 24, 2009 Next time you might want to try Tamiya paints , much more forgiving. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlzrocks Posted August 25, 2009 Share Posted August 25, 2009 give SIMPLE GREEN a try....everybody here seems to like it. I have never tried it myself...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted August 25, 2009 Share Posted August 25, 2009 Emily, try Simple Green, I use it, it even removes laquer paints. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Gramps-xrds Posted August 25, 2009 Share Posted August 25, 2009 HMMM. Must be some tough paint. You could always try what I use and that's diluted acetone. It'll take just about anything off. The only thing is, if it's too strong it'll eat the plastic up. I can't give you a mix ratio cause I never tried to figure it out. I'd start out w/ 4 parts acetone and 1 part water. Test it on some obscure place and see what happens. If it's too weak add more acetone and vice versa. I use one of the wifes old bread pans. If it turns the towell red and doesn't eat the plastic you're ok. It will desolve lacquers and cause enamels to wrinkle up. You can get it at just about any parts store or tractor supply. I use a cut off nylon 1 in brush to clean the model w/. Use this stuff in a well vented area, it's not good for ya. Thenwhen it's all over you could always use it to clean the nail polish off Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
george 53 Posted August 25, 2009 Share Posted August 25, 2009 Guy's SHE'S a GIRL!!! An a young one at that! WHY do you guys keep tellin her to use stuff that WILL HURT HER!!!!! Emily, Simple Green is a NON caustic household cleaner that can be bought at any home improvement store, or even K-Mart, Walmart or any other Mart! Just make sure it's Simple Green, NOT a generic version. I've seen it for 8 bucks a gallon. Maybe you can get it on sale for even cheaper. You can stick your hands right in it, and it WON'T eat your skin! Those others will cause it to dry out REALLY bad, IF they DON'T actually start to make it peel an burn. SG takes a few days to work, depending on the paint, BUT it DOES work! The ONLY thing I've EVER found that it won't strip is some flat black paints, and the stuff Revell used to paint their Low Rider kits. EVEN CSC, the Purple pond stuff, WON'T faze THAT paint! I just want you to READ the ingredients an BE CAREFUL on what you use. CSC is NASTY STUFF!!! I WON"T use it no matter what ANYONE says! The best, SAFEST stuff I've found is Simple Green. AND it WORKS! May take a little longer, but as I said, it's ALOT safer!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roadhawg Posted August 25, 2009 Share Posted August 25, 2009 thank you! thats really helpful!!!! the only problem im STILL having though is getting OFF the paint... i tried oven cleaner [total failure] and its been sitting in brake fluid for over 24 hours, and still is [nothing is happening] While George is absolutley right about nasty chemicals, it sounds like you ALREADY have it soaking in brake fluid.....and apparently, nothing is happening. Well....it might not, if you just look at it. You might have to scrub it! Since you already have it in the brake fluid, put on some rubber gloves and start scrubbing with an old toothbrush. It SHOULD start coming off. Use a sharpened toothpick to scrape it out of the nooks and crannies. It might not all come off with the first try....let it soak some more and try again (might be a good time to switch to Simple Green this time!). After all the paint is off, give it a bath in warm soapy water and rinse. Let us know how it goes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Emily Posted August 25, 2009 Author Share Posted August 25, 2009 DEAR EVERYONE!!!! THANK YOU ALL SO MUCH FOR THE ADVICE!!! the brake fluid turned out to be a winner, it just took TWO days! i repainted down the silver base, and it is drying i don't want to rush it this time, so i'm going to let it dry for a whole day rather than 12 hours. i gotta get this perfect! in the meantime, im painting the interior ill be sure to upload pics soon! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlzrocks Posted August 29, 2009 Share Posted August 29, 2009 (edited) That Is Great News Emily!! Glad the Brake Fluid worked for ya! Now remember.......LIGHTLY MISTED FIRST COATS on the candy apple red! Edited August 30, 2009 by charlzrocks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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