vtemt-i Posted September 14, 2009 Share Posted September 14, 2009 First, allow me to introduce myself. I started a couple of model kits when I was younger, but never managed to finish one. About a year ago I bought a new house with my own workshop, so while at Michael's one day I saw a kit on sale and said "what the heck", and low and behold I actually finished it! Since then, I have completed 1 more, and I'm halfway through my 2nd. Each has gotten better than the last (1st really is not good, but it was the first ) I have read all 30+ pages of the tips and tricks section over the last few weeks, but now decided to register and ask a few questions about paint. First of all, what is the difference between enamel and acyrlic? How do you tell what is compatible with what? How do you know if an enamel top coat from one brand is compatible with an enamel base color of another brand? Has anyone used acrylic craft paints like from Michael's? I airbrushed a Planter's peanut jar with some and it seemed to come out OK, so would it work over primer. What about Krylon spray cans? They seem to come out OK over primer to me. One thing I, like many of you, am trying to do is produce a quality I am happy with wihout spending a fortune in the process. The 50 cent a bottle craft acrylics with an airbrush seem like a cheap way to go, even if it needs an extra few coats, but is it really? Krylon is cheap and easy to find, and seems to come in an increasing range of colors, but is it durable? I am trying to touch on things that I haven't seen the answers to in other posts, so I apologize if I missed one and am being redundant. Thank you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LoneWolf15 Posted September 15, 2009 Share Posted September 15, 2009 Jr, Welcome to the Asylum ! Yes , this subject has been beaten up , however , you deserve the same consideration that all the new guys get around here . This is the first of many opinions that you are about to receive. I prefer Testors enamels. I use cheap garden variety laquer thinner to cut the enamels with at a 2 parts paint to 1 part laquer ratio . For a cost of a little over $ 13.00 , 2 bottles of color , 2 bottles of clear , you will have a glass like finish you can be proud of . It is all compatible , Testors paints are made to be used with the model industry . The laquer thinner warms the enamel , causes it to flow smoothly , dry quickly and tightly , with no loss of detail . Enamels are oil based , acrylics are water based , that is the diffrence between the two . I have found that Testors clear enamel will cover over everything without compatabilty issues . With Testors enamels , you are starting off with a gloss base which clear coat will only enhance , bringing out the depth and richness of the color. Instant gratification ! Use a multitude of light , whisper thin coats , when applying your paint. The fact that you are using an airbrush , puts you light years out ahead of the game . I invite you to visit my website , oldmansmodels.com. take a look around . There is a trailer for my dvd there that will give you an idea of how to apply the enamels . It will also give you an idea as to what colors are available. Welcome to the Asylum , the only place in the world where the inmates run the joint ! Donn Yost Lone Wolf Custom Painting Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ddms Posted September 17, 2009 Share Posted September 17, 2009 Donn, do you know if anybody makes a a semi-gloss black enamel in a spray can? Testors makes spray-can gloss and flat enamels, but no black semi-gloss in a spray can. I'm on the verge of mixing some flat into some gloss and spraying it with my airbrush - thinned with lacquer thinner, of course - but I'd rather use a spray can, especially for small parts. Ddms Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jantrix Posted September 17, 2009 Share Posted September 17, 2009 I have seen flat, semi-gloss or semi-flat and gloss black in the Krylon section at WalMArt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaronw Posted September 17, 2009 Share Posted September 17, 2009 (edited) I use Krylon, Duplicolor and Rustolium spray paints for most of my car models. If you paint several light coats I find them very easy to use. The only time I have problems is when I get impatient and put a coat on too heavy, 3 or 4 coats 5-10 minutes apart seems to work great. I like Acrylic paints for hand and air brushing. I use Tamiya, Model Master Acryl, Polly S, Vallejo and Games Workshop paints. Be aware however all acrylic paints are not the same, they are all water clean up but use different thinners and not all can be mixed together to make new colors (they are safe to paint over each other when dry). I have used the acrylic paints sold at Michaels, they work fine on plastic. I bought some for some wood airplanes I made, and found they also work on plastic. I use them with my son (9 years old), he likes building dinosaurs and sci-fi stuff, so the colors available are perfect for him. They brush just fine, but I've never tried them in an airbrush. A plastic polish like Mcguires Scratch X or Novus can really improve the final finish of the paint job. I also like Future floor wax for a clear coat, not only is it much cheaper than hobby clear coats it really does a great job fixing my smaller mistakes. Edited September 17, 2009 by Aaronw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LoneWolf15 Posted September 18, 2009 Share Posted September 18, 2009 Donn, do you know if anybody makes a a semi-gloss black enamel in a spray can? Testors makes spray-can gloss and flat enamels, but no black semi-gloss in a spray can. I'm on the verge of mixing some flat into some gloss and spraying it with my airbrush - thinned with lacquer thinner, of course - but I'd rather use a spray can, especially for small parts. Ddms Tom , Testors did make a semigloss black in a spray can ,then along the way, a genius decided to discontinue it ! I always use Testors semi gloss in the 1/2oz bottles. Yeah, it can be a pain to mix it up just for one small piece,but........! What I do to combat this problem...... I prep 4 or 5 kits , separate the parts into zip lock bags as per color / per kit. I shoot all the semi gloss parts for all the kits at one time, then I move on to the aluminum parts , steel , etc. Doing it this way , you rarely miss painting a part. If you cut the semigloss black with laquer thinner , it is dry within 15 min, and the parts are ready to be played with ! As for Testors , I am going to see if I can convince Tom Richardson to put the semi gloss black spray back on the market where it belongs! Donn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ragnar Posted September 25, 2009 Share Posted September 25, 2009 First, allow me to introduce myself. I started a couple of model kits when I was younger, but never managed to finish one. About a year ago I bought a new house with my own workshop, so while at Michael's one day I saw a kit on sale and said "what the heck", and low and behold I actually finished it! Since then, I have completed 1 more, and I'm halfway through my 2nd. Each has gotten better than the last (1st really is not good, but it was the first ) I have read all 30+ pages of the tips and tricks section over the last few weeks, but now decided to register and ask a few questions about paint. First of all, what is the difference between enamel and acyrlic? How do you tell what is compatible with what? Enamel paints need a thinner made for them. Acyrilics can be thinned with ditilled water, and they are easier to clean from brushe/air brushes, they also dry quicker than enamel paints which can be both good and bad. How do you know if an enamel top coat from one brand is compatible with an enamel base color of another brand? I have never had any problem spraying one brand over another. Has anyone used acrylic craft paints like from Michael's? I airbrushed a Planter's peanut jar with some and it seemed to come out OK, so would it work over primer. What about Krylon spray cans? They seem to come out OK over primer to me. Createx is a great Acrylic paint for airbrushing. Most of the others are best used for brush painting. One thing I, like many of you, am trying to do is produce a quality I am happy with wihout spending a fortune in the process. The 50 cent a bottle craft acrylics with an airbrush seem like a cheap way to go, even if it needs an extra few coats, but is it really? If you are going to use these mix in a drop or two of either artist matt medium or gloss medium to help hold the pigments together and always strain the paint before loading it in your air brush. I would also recomend that you clean your airbrush with 409 after each spraying! Krylon is cheap and easy to find, and seems to come in an increasing range of colors, but is it durable? Very Durable but you must use care when spraying krylon on your models, or over other paints, it is a lacquer and can damage plastic, and enamel paints. This can be avoided buy first spraying the Krylon on in mist coats allowing about 15 min. between coats, after the area is completely covered and the mist coats are dry you can spray your wet coats allowing 25 to 30 min.s between coats. as with any other paint Krylon takes 10 to 12 days to cure and should not be handled during the time it is curing. I am trying to touch on things that I haven't seen the answers to in other posts, so I apologize if I missed one and am being redundant. Anytime you need help just ask! There is no need to appologise for asking. Thank you. CHEERS! Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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