washes using Tamiya paint

[Roadkill2525]

I have some of the Tamiya bottle paint I planned to use for washes, I don't want to end up ruining a nicely painted piece because I did something wrong.

Will the Tamiya thinner X-20A will it remove the Tamiya and Model Master lacquer paint?

Whats the best ratio of thinner to paint?

[roadhawg]

I think the "A" in that number X-20A means acrylic. If thats the case, no, it shouldn't affect lacquer paint at all. If you use an acrylic wash, you should be fine.

As far as ratio, I don't know for sure, I just mix it till it flows nicely. Probably something like 20:1...pretty thin. I always keep a bottle of black wash ready. If it starts getting too thick, I just add some more acrylic thinner. Hope this helps.

Edited October 9, 2009 by roadhawg

[935k3]

Mistakes can be wiped off before drying and ammonia will remove dryed Tamiya acrylics without affecting the laquers.

[sak]

Two things that I use are methyl hydrate and isopropyl alcohol. If you are worried test out diffrent things over something is already painted.

Jeff

[MikeMc]

As I shoot lacquers as my color and clear I use tamiya acrylics thinned with x20a in a 9 or 10 part thinner to 1 part paint ratio.

a 20 to 1 mix will work but you will need a bunch of coats....really depends what look you want...

[Ddms]

X-20A will thin Tamiya acrylics but it won't remove them.

It's hard to completely remove a fully dried wash without damaging the underlying finish. Well-cured enamel or lacquer are the best bet to stand up to wash removal. Because acrylic is so soft, once you've applied a wash to it, you pretty much have to leave well enough alone. That's one reason I prefer enamel for interiors.

Acrylic washes over lacquer or enamel work better, but I still don't like their hard edges. Microbrushed Windex helps soften the edges, but right now I'm experimenting with acrylic inks, charcoal pencil and brushed charcoal powder for adding depth to upholstery and engine/chassis parts. I'm a long way from any satisfactory (to me) solution for panel gaps.

Sak, what is methyl hydrate and how do you use it?

Ddms

[Ragnar]

You really don't need to buy the Tamiya Acrylic thinner as all it is just 3parts water, with 1 part Iso.. Just mix up your own with 91% Iso.,and Distiled Water. I have been using Acrylic washes over all types of paint for over thirty years, I first started using them on Military Figures some time in the late 70s. You will want to try different consistences to get different effects, but 9-1 is a good starting point. Practice on old parts painted up from the parts box, before you use washes on you prised projects. Keep a container with distiled water close by, and some tissues. You can dampen the tissue in the water and wipep off any of the wash that gets on areas you don't want it on. Also when mixing your washes add a couple of drops of artist matte medium to them, this will help to keep the pigments from seperrating, and prevent the speckled look you can sometimes end up with when applying washes. You can also use ink washes to blend the colours together. Make sure that you get good inks that are formulated for painting miniatures, like the ones sold by Valejo, and Verlinden. The inks sold in places like Hobby Lobby, and Micheals are a bad idea for our Miniatures, as they are formulate for use in doing things like Comics, and other line drawings.

CHEERS!

[roadhawg]

the only bad thing i've had happen with the acrylics is the tendency sometimes for it to pull up on some details like say a long straight line. instead of flowing evenly along the line it pulls up in one area, make sense? another example is something like a door line or body seam. instead of flowing evenly around the whole seam it would pull into one area.

Dave

Dave, I've found that adding a drop or two of dishwashing liquid to the wash makes it flow much better.

[Chillyb1]

You really don't need to buy the Tamiya Acrylic thinner as all it is just 3parts water, with 1 part Iso.

Is this verifiable fact?

I've been experimenting with using these also both as washes and as panel-line accents. As mentioned above, many different effects can be created depending on the consistency (thinness) of the wash and the method of application. It took me a lot of trial and error just to figure out that thinner if probably better than thicker; that is, just when you think your mixture is thin enough, it probably still needs a little more thinner.

As to application, I have been using an eye-drop bottle with a CA glue applicator tip attached (my own design, patent pending!!) and also trying to figure out how to best use a syringe (my niece is diabetic and has donated several syringes to the modeling cause) mainly in highlighting panel lines. The labwork continues.

[cruz]

I like to thin my water-based paints to a very watery consistency, in this matter you won't have to worry about them ruining your finishes. In these photos, I just let capillary action take over while the pieces of tape cover up my finish. I just heavily dab some paint on top of the tape after slicing it between the panel lines and that's it, works like a charm for panel lines. Of course, if you scribe your lines nice and deep when you first take your kit out of the box it will help at the end.

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I have also used this method on engines and other small details....

[Chillyb1]

I like to thin my water-based paints to a very watery consistency, in this matter you won't have to worry about them ruining your finishes. In these photos, I just let capillary action take over while the pieces of tape cover up my finish. I just heavily dab some paint on top of the tape after slicing it between the panel lines and that's it, works like a charm for panel lines. Of course, if you scribe your lines nice and deep when you first take your kit out of the box it will help at the end.

I have also used this method on engines and other small details....

Marcos, this is an ingenious tip! I can't believe this never occurred to me. Thank you a thousand times.

[Ddms]

Really like Marcos' cut tape method! Easy to control and not nearly so messy. (To be honest, I don't like getting stain all over my carefully polished surfaces.) Seems like it would work well with either acrylic or ink. Thinned, of course. Definitely worth a serious try.

BTW, I've started using dry charcoal powder for engine and chassis parts. And liking it more and more. Apply powder with a small soft brush, wipe it off, and that's it. It gives light colored parts a natural, realistic depth without making them look dirty. And the transitions are smooth - there aren't any edges like you get with washes.

[Guest snapper]

Dave, I've found that adding a drop or two of dishwashing liquid to the wash makes it flow much better.

This doesn't seem like a big deal, but I imagine the detergent is necessary because it takes the surface tension away. The wash can then flow easier without the molecules wanting to bind together - reminds me of that experiment where you sprinkle pepper on a bowl of water and then add a drop of liquid detergent to see what happens. The surface tension of water is tough enough to float a paper clip too, but adding detergent will sink it quick. There are some good tips on this thread - I'm taking a lot of notes here...I like the tip on the tape too.

[meaneyme]

I like to thin my water-based paints to a very watery consistency, in this matter you won't have to worry about them ruining your finishes. In these photos, I just let capillary action take over while the pieces of tape cover up my finish. I just heavily dab some paint on top of the tape after slicing it between the panel lines and that's it, works like a charm for panel lines. Of course, if you scribe your lines nice and deep when you first take your kit out of the box it will help at the end.

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I have also used this method on engines and other small details....

Now, why didn't I think of that? The simplest things are always the best.