Sanding Blocks and Forms

[Bruce Poage]

I have seen many suggestions for using sanding paper and a block or form as opposed to the sanding pads that I have been using. What are some random thoughts regarding using sanding blocks instead of the pads.

Secondly what is a good source for different shaped foam, i.e. curved, narrow, forms? Thanks. I know I will get some great information as always.

[Lownslow]

i use nail salon foam blocks with sand paper glued on

[jbwelda]

as i understand it, and not sure ive verified this via actual experience, but a sanding pad or just using folded up paper, is soft and it is very difficult if not impossible to get near perfect smooth surfaces with that tool or technique. near perfect as in looking good on long expanses of gloss black surface. but if you wrap the paper around a block or stick or something of that nature, it remains flat when attacking the surface and encourages a flat surface rather than following the existing contour of the surface and just making the whoop-de-woos deeper.

i do know that ive used a block that came with the polishing kit i used for some time now and indeed my panels seem to be straighter looking, though with my eyesight thats all conjecture! the problem often is holding the paper taut while you are processing the surface. that and having the room for the luxury of using a block or stick or something firm like that. any raised surfaces will lose their paint real quick if youre not careful. thats fine if youre chrome foiling or otherwise covering those surfaces but if not its going to be more difficult to get into corners. trimming coffee stirrer sticks or similar to size and gluing on sandpaper will help in that though.

so what i generally do is a compromise: do as much area as possible with a block but then move toward just bare abrasive as i try to get into corners or around raised objects i dont want to cut through paint on.

[MikeMc]

On a 1:1 paint project blocking using a longboard is how you get those smooth panels(lotsa lotsa!!!)

On a model you just do not have those big panels ,and foam pads with lotsa soapwater will float and follow the shape better.although I do block my door lines with a

shortened sanding stick...sorta like a longboard.

That said I do tape my edges as not to burn thru..and it does take a fair amount of learning...but it makes me a better painter

and I am always looking at every technique...even enamels!!!(yes Donn!!)

I use these...they work great, and cost per unit is good, and you can cut them to fit anywhere.

Box size is way too large for one builder, so get together with 4 or 5 buddies, club members or whoever and hook each other up!

http://www.summitracing.com/search/?keywor...touch&dds=1

Edited December 12, 2009 by MikeMc

[pharr7226]

I use these tadpoles and love them. I got mine from Woodcraft. Bob Downie recommended using tadpoles/grips in his excellent "Primer on Primer" article in the October 2007 Scale Auto magazine.

[randx0]

If you are just going for smoothing out paint the pads are fine. If you are working out some heavy duty custom putty work you do want to have something a little stiffer or you run the risk of a hump just like jbwelda said.I also use those "tadpoles" and I would even recommend trimming them for those hard to reach places.Hope this helps!

Edited December 13, 2009 by randx0

[MikeMc]

I use these tadpoles and love them. I got mine from Woodcraft. Bob Downie recommended using tadpoles/grips in his excellent "Primer on Primer" article in the October 2007 Scale Auto magazine.

If you are just going for smoothing out paint the pads are fine. If you are working out some heavy duty custom putty work you do want to have something a little stiffer or you run the risk of a hump just like jbwelda said.I also use those "tadpoles" and I would even recommend trimming them for those hard to reach places.Hope this helps!

I agree 100% I got mine at Rockler supply....I love the convex ones!!!

I never build up putty or filler that thick...styrene and tenax with a good file......