Bruce Poage

Always enjoy browsing this copy-numerous times. In the pics from the Cincinnati Challenge was a picture of as '65 Bonneville built by Ed Powell. I would like to ask him some specific questions regarding the side pipes. Do you have a suggestion as to how I might contact him? Thanks.

Newest bench project is reissued '65 Lincoln, Have vision of low down contemporary street cruiser. As a reissue the chassis detail is molded. Sprayed satin black and started detailing various parts, i.e. drive shaft, suspension, exhaust. This is very time consuming, difficult and I a not pleased. My current thinking is to give it a fresh coat of satin black and forget the detail. Any suggestions--or encouragement? Thanks.

i was in my Topeka Hobby Lobby this afternoon and noted a sales associate was working the model aisle. As I am not a shy guy I asked the lady if there were big changes in the air for that department. She pointed out some mark down prices on model kits and added, " I need to clear these as I have 9 cases of new models in the back room." I call that good news!

71 years of age + 132 unassembled kits=wife advising, "You probably won't live that long!" Now don't jump to conclusions here. We have been happily married for soon to be 51 years. She knows my pace and style!

I love Tamiya paint but always looking improve my work. What are success dry times between color coats, time between color and clear, time between clear coats and wait time to polish out. Thanks.

While browsing the model section of Hobby Lobby I noticed a growing section/selection of small bottled acrylic paint labelled Model Paint. This looks just like what I purchase in the craft section for interiors due to the variety of colors. But the price of the acrylic "model" paint is about twice as much per volume as craft acrylic. If you have used this product, what are your thoughts/observations? Just curious! Thanks.

Yes, interesting. Corporate mergers often make one scratch the scalp. I remember touring the Ertl plant in Dyersville in the early 90's and was surprised to see the chrome plating equipment was being used to chrome plate plastic drapery rod parts. It was subcontract from another company that was a way to get more return on their equipment investment. The parts were about the same size as a chrome parts tree.

A friend of mine(not a modeler) recently gave me a Monogram Mojave Mule kit. As this is not the genre I usually model I am looking for a little info. Is this a kit that is hard to find? I see it was issued in 1976. I have been building since 1956 with a lapse now and then for education and family. That was issued during one of these gaps. I would be interested in any info someone might share about this kit--and its possibilities! Thanks and a Merry Christmas!!

I am wanting to build a showroom stock Avanti. I have noted there are several issues of this model. I I know the Millenium issue has racing options. For the purposes of showroom stock is any one issue or reissue better than another? Thanking this brain trust in advance!?!?

I had an unclear who smoked many cigars for many years. Thus upon his death there were many cigar boxes. So I built a cabinet to hold many cigar boxes labelled similar to others I have seen posted here. Oh my, my fingers are still asleep. I had an uncle not an unclear. I am the guy who is "unclear".

Come on--where is your sense of humor! LOL!

Hope to soon finish Chevy SSR in star spangled blue right out of the box. Next will be Studebaker AVANTI showroom original. '52 Ford sedan delivery Who knows after that.

Soon be diving into a late fifties custom and thinking about going with simulated tuck and roll interior. I have purchased some half round plastic for that purpose. The question is procedure from here. Do I glue the half round directly onto the existing seats or do I cut out the portion of the seat that is to be tuck and roll and then replace it with the half round. Suggestions appreciated.

I am interested in purchasing a Linidberg '53 Ford Victoria kit. As I am thinking of a basic street custom I am wanting a dual exhaust system. I understand some of these kits had single and some had duals. How do I identify the kit with the dual system? Or is there a simple conversation I could find from single to dual? Thanks.

This project is finally completed.

I've been at this hobby for a long time--started when I was 12 and will soon see 70!! But I can always learn something new. Thanks guys.

I use Tamiya masking tapes. Currently working on vehicle with simulated cloth top. I painted the top with MM flat. I put it in the dehydrator for 12 hours to cure. After another 12 hours I masked off the top with Tamiya tape and sprayed the body with Krylon. I put it back in the dehyde for 12 hours. When I started pulling the masking tape off the flat paint on the top I noticed a slight shadow, if you will, from the masking tape. Is this possibly caused by the heat from the dehydrator? Should tape be pulled before putting it in the dehyde? Thoughts? Thanks! May Santa fill your stocking with kits!

Awesome to hear from the guy who penned this work.

A number of years--decades(?) ago I found this in a hobby publication. It hangs on the wall in my "office of plastic". I look at it often and smile. It is a bit lengthy but good. MODEL CARS ARE BETTER THAN REAL CARS BECAUSE... Model cars are better than real cars because... Real cars rust and model cars don't, unless you want them to. Model cars are better than real cars becuause... Your neighbors could care less that you have 100 model parts cars but will complain loudly about one real one in your driveway. Model cars are better than real cars because... You can part out two Ferraris in one month and still pay the rent. Model cars are better than real cars because... Model cars don't effect your auto liability policy. Model cars are better than real cars because... Model car tires never go flat on dark, deserted roads. Model cars are better than real cars because... Model cars never leak oil or gas on your driveway. Model cars are better than real cars because... You can have nice show model cars that stay nice, but keeping one real one nice is a full time job. Model cars are better than real cars because... When your when your wife wrecks a car it's a "dusting accident" and not a "reportable accident". Model cars are better than real cars because... You can buy five model cars at once without signing any loan papers. Model cars are better than real cars becayse... I'd rather deal with "Dave, The Model King" than "Potamkin Chevrolet--Your friendly dealer." Tom Gieger Enjoy the humor--and truth of the matter and thanks to Tom Geiger.

Been modelling for many decades. Warmed spray cans in warm water sink or container during 5th decade. Switched to dehydrator in current decade. I have a low budget dehyde. I leave the top off and have monitored highest temp to be 103-105. I usually think 30 min to be long enough but as I am near 70 and occasionally have a memory wrinkle have I have left a can or two in l-o-n-g-e-r than that.

Absolutely awesome. It would only be better if spotted in front of a luxury import dealership!!

My newest, black Model Cars Magazine t-shirt is getting faded. It doesn't hang in the closet. I like to wear it when I am out and around hoping to A.) create some interest in the hobby and B.) maybe find a "closet" modeler. It it starting to look a litttle faded. My other two Model Cars t-shirts are way beyond public recognition. Any plans for a new one? Any thoughts about a '14 calendar. Just checkin!!!

Thanks for all the great info.Toluene is listed on the label so I was assuming this was a lacquer. As with other lacquers I was allowing 15-30 minutes between coats going from color to clear with the same timing. I am thinking I can continue to apply color in this increments but then allow several days before clear or do I run all color and clear and then in the cooker for several days. Appreciate the guidance and direction.

This is a pickup. The box and rear fenders were painted and cleared at least 10 days ago. This afternoon while buffing out with Scratch-X I tried holding the part with a soft cotton cloth in stead of fingers. No finger prints but could see the thread pattern of the cloth. Hmmm. In regards to cure time would you suggest I should cure the paint for maybe 3 days in dehydrator at 105 before applying clear? So you are in Kansas-near the capital city?

I've been using more Krylon on the last several projects. The reason: price, easy to use and color choice. I use Dupli-Color primer and then finish with Krylon Crystal Clear. The usual process is prime, allow 2-3 hours to dry, sand with #1000, spray 3-5 coats of color Krylon and 3 coats of clear. I then put in dehydrator for 6-10 hours to cure. On the current project I have run into fingerprinting issues as I finish assembly, buff and wax. Any thoughts or suggestions? Thanks.