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new here lookin for advice and some pics


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reaper crew...........welcome to the site! these guys/gals are the best! there always willing to help if they can........my best advice i can give you on building was given to me by a friend years ago....treat every part as if it were a model itself and your builds will come-out nice.....i have followed this advice and its helped my builds get better and better over the years.....mark

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First of all we need to know your name ;) (just put it in your signature). When I build a model I like to take my time, and not try and rush the build. Mark has gave you some great advice. When you are gluing parts together scrape the paint off of both surfaces that are going together, it insures a better hold between them. Also for a great paint job you need to talk to Bill Geary (AKA MrObsesive). He has beautiful paint jobs. Hope this helps :D

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No problem............im a disabled builder and im familiar with needing help at times.....the builder that told me that builds models that are hard to tell from photos that if there real or not, the man is real good. ive been building for around 35 years and i learn something new everyday........you will enjoy the site, these guys have great skills and experience to share with you as they have for me. when you get to know them a little better they will seem like life long friends.....mark

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well i finally obeyed the rules and added my name to my sig

and ive come up with a noob question..what is a razor saw(i think thats what it was)

a razor saw is a smaller saw with fine teeth good for cutting all the way across the body, hood, roof etc.but if this is your first or second model you probably won't need one this time around.for starters you will likely need an exacto knife ,a sprue cutter(sometimes nail clippers will work)sand paper (automotive 400-600 wet dry)a liquid glue (tenax 7r is my preference ),and maybe spray paint .a note on spray paint and painting in general there are so many different techniques and opinions on paint and which to use it really does come down to preference and what works for you .in my opinion treehugger dave has the best technique and relatively easy to learn for a beginner.I also would caution against using the spray enamels but recommend the spray lacquers.take a look at the underglass section and find the paint jobs you like the most and then just ask the people who painted them how they did it and what they used for materials.as far as pictures of the lightning I think there are probably a few around here but you may also try google images.good luck and feel free to ask any questions no matter how trivial we like to help.good luck :lol:

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reaper crew...........welcome to the site! these guys/gals are the best! there always willing to help if they can........my best advice i can give you on building was given to me by a friend years ago....treat every part as if it were a model itself and your builds will come-out nice.....i have followed this advice and its helped my builds get better and better over the years.....mark

Very sound advice and advice that should be heeded. Like a 1:1 car, you don't rush the assembly of a model. Each part needs, and deserves, the care and respect you'd give to the corresponding assembly on a real one.

Welcome, and we look forward to seeing you around the board.

Charlie Larkin

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ive bought i think its testors detail starter kit thats got some paint glue brush x-acto so on

and ive spray painted parts on my 1:1 truck before which im sure theres a little diffrence

That's a good starter set for doing basic details, and not a bad way to start out.

Contrary to popular thought, although I do use a lot of automotive paints for painting the bodies, most of the rest of my painting is still done with solvent and acrylic enamels. The colors are adequate in selection, and with good brushes, cover well. They're also a little easier on the budget for when starting out.

I would suggest the following:

A good selection of Model Master automotive enamels, and a few of the FS (Military) colors for interiors and other odds and ends. If the Model Master lacquers are available in the colors you'd like, consider purchasing them, they seem to work resonably well. Model Master Acryl has a slightly different selection of colors, and work well, as do Tamyia's acrylics.

I use automotive or craft lacquer primer almost exclusively. I like Plasti-Kote the best, but I know several people who use Krylon, Majic, Now (sold at Ace) and other hardware store primers with good results. I usually stick to gray. Some people use red oxide for "correct" painting; if you do, I'd recommend using it on the entire body or anything that's body-colored and gray for the rest. The spray-on primer does an excellent job of setting up the parts for whatever paint you like to use.

Testors flat black spray for doing the underside, unless you want to do full detail. I usually stick to flat black because the era I build (older cars,) it looks like undercoating, which is reasonable for my neck of the woods (New England) and makes the job simpler. Newer cars tend not to be undercoated, but fully primed with a color mist underneath just something to keep in mind.

I'd recommend very strongly getting a better hobby knife, such as an X-Acto or competing make. X-Acto has just sent its manufacturing over to Red China, so I've gone to purchasing other brands that are American-made still. Unfortunately, we don't have as much choice with car kits; perhaps someday that will change, too, but I digress.

Glue: I use Testors liquid and tube. The tube cement can get a little stringy, but dries slowly, which is good for fiddly parts. Some people use superglue if you can't easily remove paint from some parts. Although I haven't tried it, Testor's clear parts cement is supposed to be very good.

Hope this gives you some guidance.

Charlie Larkin

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Here are the basic tools:

Hobby Knife with #11 Blade, a chissle tip blade also comes in handy

Sprue Cutters, get a good one with thin sharp blades. You really need this tool!

Pin Vise with a set of wire guage bits.

Tweezers for handling small parts during assembly.

Razor saw with 52teeth per inch, you will find many uses for it.

A good set of Jewelers files a must have.

A set of rifler files optional but very handy for getting into areas you can't work on with strait files.

Assorted Sand Paper: 150-280 grit for rough work, 600 grit, 800 grit, 1000 grit and 1200 grit for final body prep.

A good set of paint brushes numbers 3,1,and 5/0 to start. Get good quality Brushes, cheap ones are a waiste of money!

Assorted paints both aerosol and bottle paints, I sugest Model Masters, and Tamiya to start. Leave the Automotive paints until you have some practice with the model paints.

for the Glass like finishes you see, you will also need sanding pads and clothes in 3200 through 12000 grit, polishing compound, I use Novus #2 polishing compound, followed by NOVUS #1 sealer, Flanel cloth for polishing.

There are several other tools that make building easier, but these are the basics.

For glues you will need Liguid plastic cement, CA, Epoxy, and glue made for clear parts.

You will also find that flat tooth picks are handy for applying the glues.

CHEERS!

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