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Posted

It's real easy. All you need is some solder of the appropiate size/guage, pliers to make the sharper bends and a muffler (or two) from the car/truck kit.

This was my first time out doing this. This '67 Impala is being built as a replica of a car owned by my American LHS owner back in the day. The kit comes with a BIG (427) V8 and dual exhaust. His car had a 327 and a single exhaust BUT (and there's always a but, isn't there?) his single exhaust was oversize and it came that way from the factory.

He expected me to build an appropiate exhaust out of aluminum tubing that he graciously applied but the more I thought about it, the more it made sense to build one from solder even if I hadn't tried that technique before.

DSCF4141Merged-vi.jpg

So. After two tries for the forward part, one try for the connector pipe and the rear pipe, this is what I got.

DSCF4143Merged-vi.jpg

DSCF4144-vi.jpg

The kit comes with both a muffler and a resonator but I'm pretty sure the 1:1 didn't have a resonator so the model's not going to have it regardless.

DSCF4146-vi.jpg

I've still gotta add hangers and a tip but I'm impressed with what I accomplished in say a half hour of work.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

If a builder wishes to use styrene tubing for headers or exhaust pipes, it is possible. All you need to do is get some solder that has the same diameter as the inside of the tubing. Insert the solder to the area which you wish to make the bend, and, then simply bend the tubing. The solder will not let the tubing kink and the solder will also make the tubing stay in the configuration you are looking for.

bob :shock:

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

You reaaly need to take some model exhaust parts to the hardware store and compare sizes, as solder can come in so many thicknesses. Don't use resin-core solder! The resin will leak out over time and attack plastic! Don't ask me how I know! :shock:

Posted

I've used solder to do a couple of exhausts and creating hangers is an absolute must unless you want to drag your exhaust pipes on the ground.

I have used acid core one one project when I couldn't find a solid core in the right size. I plugged up the end with the end of a straight pin sealed it with some epoxy and 15 years later haven't seen any damage to the plastic that the solder is mated to.

Radio Shack (now called the Source here in Canada) also have a .6 mm solder that is ideal for valve stems, fuel lines that need a lot of kinks and bends and other wiring.

rob w

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