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Nissan Skyline GT-R R35


The Creative Explorer

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Time for a new project, Last saturday I bought me a new Aoshima Skyline and wanted to start on it right away, although I would like to finish up the Merc first. But since the Merc is now on hold, due to hardening of the paint, I thought I could justify it for myself to start on the R35

I've tried to use the Alclad primer, but I don't like it much. It is way to agressive with plastic, but it makes the moldlines pop up again. Even though this one is sandable, I will not buy a new one. I will keep using my old primer, which works better imho.

Some pictures:

skyline001.jpg

skyline002.jpg

skyline003.jpg

This is what the primer does, it was sanded flat before primer got on:

skyline005.jpg

skyline006.jpg

And the mountingtabs came right through the bumper aswell.

skyline008.jpg

Back to sanding

skyline009.jpg

skyline010.jpg

skyline011.jpg

Even the old glue-tric didnt work

skyline014.jpg

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Good luck with it; beware that all your work may see those mold lines return with your clearcoat. Once the plastic has been damaged, the only reliable way to keep it from happening again is to overcoat with a sealer. More primer and even base coats might not be aggressive enough to see it happen, but a good wet coat of clear will. Considering the work you've done, I'd let this paint cure completely, then apply a coat of Future (it's a very good sealer) before using any other kind of clear. Future can work just fine as a clearcoat, but it's not as robust as other clears.

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Erik looking good so far. I have had similar experiences with this with mold lines and my recommendations when this happens is to take a dremel or file or anything sand thru the mold line and then lay bondo or body filler of your choice. I would say that 9 out of 10 times just sanding the mold line down I have seen them pop back. Part of the poping can be from the type of primer you use. I use a lacquer base primer and its the sovent in it that cause's the primer to pop the mold line. the other thing I have learned is mist a few coats of the primer before laying a heavy one down and that has helped me. I am looking forward to seeing this kit completed.

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nice color!

one thing ive noticed with my friends over in europe, when they say "Merc" they mean Mercedes Benz (known here, by me anyway, as a Benz) but over here a "Merc" refers to a Mercury, usually a 49/50 leadsled sort of car.

just thought you might like to know to cut down on confusion.

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Thanks guys!

I have been using a water-based primer for the last year and except for the fact that it is not sandable, it works very nice. It needs very, very thin layers of primer and it works a gem through the airbrush. Sometimes I do see a flaw, but it is hard to fix it.

So I thought of using my alclad primer for once, just to see how it would work since it was standing there anyway. But so far it is a little of a dissapointment. It is just so much more agressive. What I did was to shoot a thin layer of Alclad on top again, and just shot color on top. I hope I can polish the imperfections out later on.

I am not scared the moldlines will re-appear again, since I use mainly waterbased paints, primer-color-and clear.

@Bob; I tried Future once, but when I shoot it through my airbrush, it looks like a moon landscape and ever since I am now using Tamiya X-22, shot straight through the airbrush. Since it is waterbased, it does orangepeel, but that can be polished out fairly easy.

@JB: I am aware of that one, but since this board is mainly USA and people who know cars, the '49 Merc should be known by definition haha. But yeah, you are right, it can cause confusion. In the European boards, I do call it a Mercury.

We have the same problem with a 'caddy'. Over in the USA it is a short for a Caddilac, but over here in Europe, it actually is the name of a 80's VW pick-up car.

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