falcongeorge Posted April 10, 2010 Posted April 10, 2010 I have a AMT small window Pete cab that I will be pulling a mold off of that will need rivet detail, these will probably come off in the RTV. Maybe I should drill holes and use .010 styrene rod. Sounds like some real misery...
SpreadAxle Posted April 10, 2010 Posted April 10, 2010 The blue Pete doesn't look bad with its rivets. My first truck was a 379 that was a slightly lighter shade than your model, but the rivets were noticeable. Your build looks nice. I found your various uses on the Diamond Reo to be interesting. Nice touch on the front wheels.
whale392 Posted April 10, 2010 Author Posted April 10, 2010 (edited) These product reviews and personal experience with them are very helpful in my quest....I thank you all again for the assistance. Looks like Friday, I will be doing some rivet shopping. I have thought about the .010 styrene rod idea myself, along with the .008" and .010" copper safety-wire I get at work. Edited April 10, 2010 by whale392
DanielG Posted April 11, 2010 Posted April 11, 2010 (edited) I use small pins, brads, ship-building nails, whatever I can find with a head size that I can live with. It does require drilling a small hole for every rivet however. I cut off the head with a bit of shaft left and CA it into the hole. It goes without saying that this is easier to do the larger the scale. I have also used the CA dot method but for larger heads or orky stuff where the sizes of the heads could be different. To give an idea of the sizes possible, Ork hob-nailed boots: After doing this one I changed to the 'glue in a brass rod and cut off' method! Edited April 11, 2010 by DanielG
Aaronw Posted April 11, 2010 Posted April 11, 2010 I'm not sure if this is what Matt (the other Matt, not me! ) was talking about, but this is a ponce wheel. How does this tool work? It seems like it would make dimples instead of bumps, which would work for flush rivets but not raised rivets or am I missing something?
Blake Rogers Posted April 11, 2010 Posted April 11, 2010 Why don't you post some of your "perfect" models so we can critisize those? Have respect for others he already said they were out of scale but he like them and that is all that counts. i agree with you 100%
highway Posted April 11, 2010 Posted April 11, 2010 How does this tool work? It seems like it would make dimples instead of bumps, which would work for flush rivets but not raised rivets or am I missing something? Aaron, first, the ponce wheel is very similar to a pizza cutter, but it does not have sharp edges for cutting. It is actually for fabrics, but had read it was useful for rivets. It does not work on thick kit plastic, you have to make your rivets on evergreen sheet plastic no thicker than about .015 thick. It does make small dimples on the side you roll the wheel on, but on the oppisite side you get rivet "bumps". I will try to post a couple of pictures of a piece of practice rivets I tried on a piece of evergreen .010 sheet, but I'll have to see if I can get some contrast on it first so you can see the detail.
Aaronw Posted April 11, 2010 Posted April 11, 2010 Aaron, first, the ponce wheel is very similar to a pizza cutter, but it does not have sharp edges for cutting. It is actually for fabrics, but had read it was useful for rivets. It does not work on thick kit plastic, you have to make your rivets on evergreen sheet plastic no thicker than about .015 thick. It does make small dimples on the side you roll the wheel on, but on the oppisite side you get rivet "bumps". I will try to post a couple of pictures of a piece of practice rivets I tried on a piece of evergreen .010 sheet, but I'll have to see if I can get some contrast on it first so you can see the detail. Silly me , I understand how you are using it now, the raised detail is on the backside of the plastic. If you used thin enough plastic that would even give you a little lip for the edge of the plate. Thanks, I will keep my eyes open the next time I go to Micheals.
highway Posted April 11, 2010 Posted April 11, 2010 Silly me , I understand how you are using it now, the raised detail is on the backside of the plastic. If you used thin enough plastic that would even give you a little lip for the edge of the plate. Thanks, I will keep my eyes open the next time I go to Micheals. Aaron, you should find it somewhere near the fabric dept., and I also found one that has a smooth edge that looks like a mini pizza cutter, I haven't tried it yet, but I guess it may work for ribbing like you would find on the sides of a trailer. Just make sure you use it on something soft so the raised detail comes out on the back, when I tried it I had it on my cutting mat and had problems.
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