thinning paint?

[hellonwheelz3]

I am getting used to my new aztec airbrush (model 740) and I need to know how you guys thin your paint to make it come out of the airbrush like it should. So far I have gotten it to where it sputters, and on the flipside, I've had it where it is so thin, you can see through it. Any help for this newbie?

[Lownslow]

what paint are you using?

the rule of thumb is generally half and half or whole milk consistency at around 20 psi

[charlie8575]

what paint are you using?

the rule of thumb is generally half and half or whole milk consistency at around 20 psi

Generally, this is accurate. Some other tips I've found:

With acrylics, especially Tamyia, it's best to use their specific thinner for spraying. I never liked the idea of thinning it with water (and have actually been cautioned against it,) and alcohol will tend to flatten the paint.

Any solvent-based paint, with the possible exception of Mr. Hobby (I have been told by several people in absolutely certain terms to ONLY use their proprietary thinner) will react well to lacquer thinner. It makes it spray out very smoothly and dries much, much faster. It's very similar in effect to Japan drier. Lacquer thinner is also best for cleaning the airbrush after. For cleaning acrylics, 90-91% alcohol is perfect. One tip to clean the brush is to put your finger over the nozzle and spray. It creates a back pressure and forces the solvent to cycle through the entire unit. It's similar to blowing bubbles into a drink with a straw, and is almost as much fun to watch.

I use an Aztec A320 and have generally been quite happy with it.

Charlie Larkin

[hellonwheelz3]

So far I have been using just testors enamel paint, as my lhs doesn't carry anything "good", i.e., tamiya or other brands. They have some laquer paints but the ony primer they have is testors enamel primer. (I know, I know, i really need to get to the auto parts store).

[MikeMc]

Ben you can do great paint jobs with enamels. I shoot lacquers and I reccomend the Donn Yost DVD on airbrushing. He shoots award winning paint jobs and uses the enamel paints. Go to his web site check him out or send him an email...

www.oldmansmodels.com

[Ddms]

When I started airbrushing, I was incredibly stubborn about mixing it correctly. I just couldn't bring myself to thin it down enough - even though it was clogging and spraying lumpy paint. I blamed the brush; I blamed the paint; I kept increasing the airflow; I even went out and bought new nozzles.

And all the time I was trying to spray it too effing thick!

Some oddities:

• 
  
  
• I've gotten a nice cloth look by spraying flat enamel thinned with lacquer thinner. I haven't tried using lac thinner with glossy enamel, but I've heard that it works well. One thing's for sure - it will dry faster.
  
• It you're using automotive urethane, be sure to thin it 4 parts low temp UR-40 reducer to 1 part paint. Lacquer thinner will thin it, but there's a risk of curdling.
  

[charlie8575]

So far I have been using just testors enamel paint, as my lhs doesn't carry anything "good", i.e., tamiya or other brands. They have some lacquer paints but the ony primer they have is testors enamel primer. (I know, I know, i really need to get to the auto parts store).

I actually like Testors paints and use them quite a bit. The only complaint I have with them is because of the enviro-goons, the formulas changed a little and they don't seem to brush out or cover as well as they used to. However, when airbrushed, they work very nicely and look good as long as you're intelligent about the application. I still like their flat black the best and they're good for small details.

I've found that lacquer thinner brings up the gloss a little because the enamel paint dries (hardens) faster and for some reason, that makes the gloss come up better, probably because the glossing agents don't have an opportunity to dilute or evaporate as quickly.

I've used Testors, Tamyia, and a little Humbrol, and have found all of them to be good paints when used properly.

Charlie Larkin