More 60 Ford Starliner Questions

[David G.]

Wanting to be as accurate as I can, I have a couple of more questions about the AMT 60 Ford Starliner that I'm building.

1. The stock air cleaner that is in the kit is plated. I find it hard to imagine that the 1:1 car would have had a chrome plated air cleaner. If that's true, then I'm OK with it, but I think it would have been painted. My question is, if it was originally painted, what color would it have been? The engine in question is the V8 352 R Interceptor with a 4 bbl carb.

2. I've seen many modelers replicate the body color overspray on the floorpan of the car chassis. Would there have been such a thing as "underspray"?

I mean to say that the fenders and other body panels would have likely had a primer coat on their inside surfaces. Should this inside surface be visible in some locations, like the slight overhang of a fender wheelwell beyond the inner wheelhousing, would the primer coat (oxide red?) be visible or whould this area be painted the same as the body color?

I know, these may seem like picky points, but this is a decent kit and I want to do it justice.

Any tips would, as always, be appreciated.

Thanks in advance,

David G.

p.s. I did do a Google image search and came up dry on these two points, otherwise, I wouldn't ask.

Edited April 28, 2010 by David G.

[Jon Cole]

1. The stock air cleaner that is in the kit is plated. I find it hard to imagine that the 1:1 car would have had a chrome plated air cleaner. If that's true, then I'm OK with it, but I think it would have been painted. My question is, if it was originally painted, what color would it have been? The engine in question is the V8 352 R Interceptor with a 4 bbl carb.

I just Google'd "FORD 352", bunch of stuff came up. Hope that helps... cause I know almost squat on engines.

Edited April 27, 2010 by Spyder

[2002p51]

1. The stock air cleaner that is in the kit is plated. I find it hard to imagine that the 1:1 car would have had a chrome plated air cleaner. If that's true, then I'm OK with it, but I think it would have been painted. My question is, if it was originally painted, what color would it have been? The engine in question is the V8 352 R Interceptor with a 4 bbl carb.

2. I've seen many modelers replicate the body color overspray on the floorpan of the car chassis. Would there have been such a thing as "underspray"?

I mean to say that the fenders and other body panels would have likely had a primer coat on their inside surfaces. Should this inside surface be visible in some locations, like the slight overhang of a fender wheelwell beyond the inner wheelhousing, would the primer coat (oxide red?) be visible or whould this area be painted the same as the body color?

The factory air cleaner housing was most definitely NOT plated. I'm not sure of the exact color for a '60. It might have been Ford Blue, it might have been gold.

As for your second question; DON'T "underspray". I know there was a slight amount of body color (the key word here is SLIGHT)over spray on some unibody cars like late sixties/early seventies MoPars and such, but I notice that this has become way over done on more and more models.

Since the '60 Ford has a separate body on frame construction, I seriously doubt you'd see any body color overspray on the bottom.

And if I were building this model I'd paint all of the inner fender wells flat or semi-gloss black and be done with it.

[AMT Pacemakers]

Pretty sure the 4 barrell air cleaner was gold, as were the valve covers. Go to the site below and join up, these guys should be a ble to tell you for sure.

www.fordfe.com

CCSS

[David G.]

I just Google'd "FORD 352", bunch of stuff came up. Hope that helps... cause I know almost squat on engines.

That's what I did too and it seems that Ford put that engine in everything from the 1958 Edsel to the 1976 F-150. The air cleaner colors ranged from chrome to blue, gold, white, black and rusted metal with several of those colors associated with Galaxie and Starliner applications.

Not knowing which of these, if any, were original, prompted me to post the question here with the hope that somebody will have first-hand knowledge of which color would be the correct factory configuration.

I do thank you for taking the time to reply, though.

David G.

[Eshaver]

David back when the 352 was used in Ford products , the air cleaner was usually a Dark Royal Blue as in the Ole Testors Square Bottle dk Blue . In fact , the whole motor would be considered correct if it were painted in that Blue too. Some of the "Police " specials were indeed Gold . If you got a Dealer Preped Dual Quad or E code motor use the Gold . Sionce you're going for mass appeal and a replica stock Galaxy , use the Dk Blue .

Now for under spray I agree with a previous poster. Don't bother ! Use a good semi - Gloss Black and a good Flat black to differentate things like you're radiatior support and the inner fender liners . The firewalls of the full size Fords were body color then . The fender liners , paint them a flat color . I would then move to semi gloss enamels for the radiator and the support . I hhope this helps ya . Ed Shaver

Edited April 27, 2010 by Eshaver

[David G.]

The factory air cleaner housing was most definitely NOT plated. I'm not sure of the exact color for a '60. It might have been Ford Blue, it might have been gold.

As for your second question; DON'T "underspray". I know there was a slight amount of body color (the key word here is SLIGHT)over spray on some unibody cars like late sixties/early seventies MoPars and such, but I notice that this has become way over done on more and more models.

Since the '60 Ford has a separate body on frame construction, I seriously doubt you'd see any body color overspray on the bottom.

And if I were building this model I'd paint all of the inner fender wells flat or semi-gloss black and be done with it.

Thanks, your suggestion about the body paint seems to be the reasonable option, based on the information you provide.

Thanks again, guys.

David G.

Pretty sure the 4 barrell air cleaner was gold, as were the valve covers. Go to the site below and join up, these guys should be a ble to tell you for sure.

www.fordfe.com

CCSS

It seems that painting the aircleaner in gold to match the valve covers makes the most sense. I'm glad to find that "chrome" is definitely out. It just didn't seem right to me.

[David G.]

David back when the 352 was used in Ford products , the air cleaner was usually a Dark Royal Blue as in the Ole Testors Square Bottle dk Blue . In fact , the whole motor would be considered correct if it were painted in that Blue too. Some of the "Police " specials were indeed Gold . If you got a Dealer Preped Dual Quad or E code motor use the Gold . Sionce you're going for mass appeal and a replica stock Galaxy , use the Dk Blue .

Now for under spray I agree with a previous poster. Don't bother ! Use a good semi - Gloss Black and a good Flat black to differentate things like you're radiatior support and the inner fender liners . The firewalls of the full size Fords were body color then . The fender liners , paint them a flat color . I would then move to semi gloss enamels for the radiator and the support . I hhope this helps ya . Ed Shaver

Ed,

According to the kit directions and the results of my previous question about the engine color in this particular kit, gloss black seems to be the correct paint for the engine overall, with the valve covers in gold. Based on the current consensus, I think the aircleaner should be gold to match the valve covers. It seems to make the most sense.

At first I was a bit bummed-out about painting the engine all in gloss black. With the fender wells and firewall in semi-gloss black, I thought much of the engine detail would be lost in a sea of darkness, so to speak. But I took it as an interesting challenge to overcome, and I've hit on a few ideas for some subtle touches that should make it work.

All you guys are a great source of ideas and inspiration, and I do so enjoy batting concepts and ideas back and forth with you.

Thanks,

David G.

[AzTom]

Here is an unrestored car with a 235 hp 352 and it has silver aircleaner and valve covers.

http://www.chooseyouritem.com/classics/files/669500/669810-9.1960.Ford.Starliner.html

The 360 hp 352 may of used chrome??

Aztom

[David G.]

Here is an unrestored car with a 235 hp 352 and it has silver aircleaner and valve covers.

http://www.chooseyouritem.com/classics/files/669500/669810-9.1960.Ford.Starliner.html

The 360 hp 352 may of used chrome??

Aztom

OK, that's really interesting. It matches nothing that I've learned up to this point.

Regardless of the silver sheetmetal, the one in the photo isn't even Ford Blue.

sigh

Maybe it has to do with the engine's configuration. The one in the kit I have has an "R" designation, meaning that it's a 4v interceptor, and that (supposedly) is why it wears black.

At this point, it seems that one could argue a good point for just about any color combination.

Still, thanks for the link.

David G.

[Eshaver]

At dis point , I give up............................................ Ed Shaver

[Junkman]

I dug out my February 1993 issue of Collectible Automobile (yes, I have them all) which contains an article on the 60-61 big Fords. It should be noted that CA takes great pride in featuring only original, or authentically restored cars. Inaccuracies in restorations are usually mentioned.

Pictured is (among others) a red '60 Starliner on steelies with rings, caps and blackwalls, and there is a picture of the engine bay. The engine is black, with golden rocker covers and a golden air filter housing. In the capture for this pic it says, it is the hottest 1960 V8 offering, the 360 horse 352 mated with a BW T-85 overdrive gearbox. The engine in this picture appears to be unrestored.

I hope this helps.

There are two more cars pictured with open bonnets in the article, unfortunately both being 1961 models:

A Sunliner with a 220 hp 352 in black with blue rocker covers and filter housing - obviously the only 352 offering left for '61, and a Fairlane 4-door sedan with a 390 good for a rousing 375 hp - black with golden rocker covers and air filter housing. Makes me wonder what the latter's first owner's intended use was. Carry moonshine?

The blue used on the former's engine components is not the Ford Engine Blue from the Testor's square bottle, it is a much brighter blue, not dissimilar to Humbrol 52.

The gold used on these engines looks approximately like 1972 Ford Gold Glow Metallic code FD5086.

Edited April 28, 2010 by Junkman

[Harry P.]

Just to further confuse the issue, I found this:

http://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/carsforsale/ford/starliner/1038149.html

[Junkman]

Just to further confuse the issue, I found this:

http://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/carsforsale/ford/starliner/1038149.html

Yep, this is what the 352 220 hp in the '61 Sunliner in the CA article looks like, too.

My theory is that the hottest engine only had the golden parts, the lesser had the blue parts. How this turquoise engine with the silver parts ties into this is beyond me, but my guess is it's a truck engine transplanted into that car.

What we have established for sure though is that the chromed air filter box is downright wrong.

Edited April 28, 2010 by Junkman

[AzTom]

Ok, The Masterpiece Series that Ertl made of this kit has a black engine with gold aircleaner and valve covers. I have photos of that model.

Tom

Maybe the different Hp engines had different colors

Edited April 28, 2010 by AzTom

[Junkman]

I'd paint it black with golden rocker covers and air filter box and be done with it.

[David G.]

I'd paint it black with golden rocker covers and air filter box and be done with it.

After all is said and done, that'll be the answer.

The engine is already in gloss black with the appropriate aluminum, steel and iron bits. The valve covers are gold and the aircleaner will be stripped of its chrome in a bleach bath and painted gold to match the valve covers.

whew!

Thanks to everybody who chimed in on this one. That's what I like about this community, there is never a shortage of answers to a question.

David G.

[AzTom]

After all is said and done, that'll be the answer.

David G.

David, Good choice. It appears that AMT did some research in doing the Masterpiece series. As for the floor pan, AMT did it in red oxide primer with only the front wheel wells black and no overspray. On the 58 Edsel they did do the overspray.

AzTom

[David G.]

David, Good choice. It appears that AMT did some research in doing the Masterpiece series. As for the floor pan, AMT did it in red oxide primer with only the front wheel wells black and no overspray. On the 58 Edsel they did do the overspray.

AzTom

Yup, I sprayed the fenderwells satin black the other day, the floorpan with oxide red primer yesterday, clearcoat's going on today. When I've got it all knocked together, it should look like the one in the photo. I don't think I'll mess with any overspray on the floorpans any time in the near future. I think an airbrush (something I don't have) is needed to do it properly, and most people outside of our community probably wouldn't get it anyway.

I also picked up AMT's 58 Edsel, the one with the continental kit, at the Desert Scale Classic last weekend. I can't wait to tear into that one.

Thanks,

David G.

[Junkman]

Did they never use undercoating over there? Our cars were always undercoated when they left the factory, as long as I can remember and this seems awfully long by now.

[David G.]

Did they never use undercoating over there? Our cars were always undercoated when they left the factory, as long as I can remember and this seems awfully long by now.

Where I grew up in north-east Ohio in the 1970's, almost all of the cars I can recall working on had some form of undercoating. In that part of the States, undercoating is (or was at that time) a fairly big business; Rusty Jones and Ziebart are a couple of companies that come to mind.

The materials used ranged from spray-on asphalt to special polymerized surface coatings aka, plastic paint. Inexpensive undercoating would do its job as long as its integrity held out. As soon as there was a "chink in the armor" so to speak, moisture would get between the undercoating and the metal surface and remain trapped there, accelerating the corrosion process.

My bodywork kit usually included a small propane torch and a stout putty knife for removing asphalt undercoating prior to making repairs. Of course, here in Phoenix, none of that matters!