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Look like a fairly easy project. I remember at one time someone I cant remember who had the forklift /loader available it might of been kit form services or scale equipment ltd. maybe someone out there can help here ? What I learned when scratchbuilding a curtainside with plastic is to reinforce the roof lengthwise with some brsss or metal found at your hobby shop so your roof dont get the sags. Hope this helps Steven

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A couple of things on the AMT Peterbilt 359 that need work:

1). The tires. There is a nasty-bad mold seam in the center of each tire. I use 220 grit sandpaper and a sanding block and sand the tread flat to eliminate the visible seam.

2). Before you glue in the rear axles, test fit them to the frame with wheels/tires on the axle to make sure that all axles and tires are level so your tires all touch the ground.

3). The underside of the roof has some large round mold marks (can't remember the technical term). These interfere with the installation of the glass tub and need to be removed so that the glass slides all the way into the cab and the interior tub slides high enough into the cab.

Tim

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Look like a fairly easy project. I remember at one time someone I cant remember who had the forklift /loader available it might of been kit form services or scale equipment ltd. maybe someone out there can help here ? What I learned when scratchbuilding a curtainside with plastic is to reinforce the roof lengthwise with some brsss or metal found at your hobby shop so your roof dont get the sags. Hope this helps Steven

Thanks for the tip on the long roof.

A couple of things on the AMT Peterbilt 359 that need work:

1). The tires. There is a nasty-bad mold seam in the center of each tire. I use 220 grit sandpaper and a sanding block and sand the tread flat to eliminate the visible seam.

2). Before you glue in the rear axles, test fit them to the frame with wheels/tires on the axle to make sure that all axles and tires are level so your tires all touch the ground.

3). The underside of the roof has some large round mold marks (can't remember the technical term). These interfere with the installation of the glass tub and need to be removed so that the glass slides all the way into the cab and the interior tub slides high enough into the cab.

Tim

So far on my kit the front suspension has HORRIBLE mold lines so making it posable is taking longer than I hoped.

Thanks for the heads up on the rear suspension.

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That shouldn't be to tough a project and looks like a fun one. I agree with reinforcing the roof. some 1/4" or 1/8" brass angle at the sides or maybe a 1/4"x1/8" c-channel down the middle... Flat beds are fairly easy to scratchbuild, here's pics of one I'm building for a stretched Dodge L-700 I am working on. All components are Evergreen Styrene:

256rcrt.jpg

The center rails are .080 x .25 and the frame crossmembers are from some .080 and .060 stock that was in the scrap bin and the floor is .040 sheet. I cheated on the floor and snapped an 8'x14' bed out of a sheet of 1/4" tile...Next time, I'll turn the sheet over so the tile side is up and under the wood floor. ;) I scratchbuild in 1/24 because 1/2"=1' is easier to work with than the 1/25 conversions... :) It looks fine on the 1/25 chassis.

260skty.jpg

I hope these pictures help or perhaps give you some ideas. I'm looking forward to seeing your project take shape!

Edited by Wagoneer81
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  • 2 weeks later...

In this issue of the kit, it's a Cummins NTC350.

Thanks Jim :)

Cummins is all red correct ? Does anyone knowof reference pics I could take a look at ?

I've browsed the reference pics forum but didn't see anything.

Here's a update...I had to repair a leafspring due to the way it cut off the tree.

010.jpg

Here is the interior mostly done...

013.jpg

015-1.jpg

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That shouldn't be to tough a project and looks like a fun one. I agree with reinforcing the roof. some 1/4" or 1/8" brass angle at the sides or maybe a 1/4"x1/8" c-channel down the middle... Flat beds are fairly easy to scratchbuild, here's pics of one I'm building for a stretched Dodge L-700 I am working on. All components are Evergreen Styrene:

256rcrt.jpg

The center rails are .080 x .25 and the frame crossmembers are from some .080 and .060 stock that was in the scrap bin and the floor is .040 sheet. I cheated on the floor and snapped an 8'x14' bed out of a sheet of 1/4" tile...Next time, I'll turn the sheet over so the tile side is up and under the wood floor. :) I scratchbuild in 1/24 because 1/2"=1' is easier to work with than the 1/25 conversions... :lol: It looks fine on the 1/25 chassis.

260skty.jpg

I hope these pictures help or perhaps give you some ideas. I'm looking forward to seeing your project take shape!

If you would be kind enough to just send me that flatbed I could just use that instead... :o:lol::lol:

Seriously though that is some awesome work...thanks for sharing

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If you would be kind enough to just send me that flatbed I could just use that instead... :P:lol::lol:

Seriously though that is some awesome work...thanks for sharing

Thanks for appreciating, I'm glad you like it! The pictures show just one way of building a bed. Scratchbuilding is really straightforward and easy, you just break the subject down into basic shapes. You build the basic shapes and then put them together. ;) I'm looking forward to seeing more of your build!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Mark, that vintage of Cummins would have been beige. Although Peterbilt had most of the engines they installed painted white up until 1985.

ATHSPleasanton2010109.jpg

ATHSPleasanton2010110.jpg

Thanks Paul for the reference photo's they have been very helpful.

I decided to go with a little customization when painting the engine so here goes...

004.jpg

002-1.jpg

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