simple flame useing BMF

[gseeds]

this for the guys that want to know the basic's of custom paint,some of the guys here are past this,but others will find this helpful { i hope }.

Ok this is a very simple flame design that you can take as far as you want,

its not prefect but youll get the idea, after a good wash and primer i sanded the car with 800 grit sand paper {wet}, gave it a base color of house of kolor sunrise pearl,after it dryed,i used bare metal foil as a mask, after laying it on the area i want flamed,i then I draw on some flames,with a sharpie pen,then i take my number 11 blade and cut along the draw lines,and peel back the area i want color on, remember to cut very carefully and only cut only the foil not the paint below,mask off all others areas you dont want paint,ad color of you choice,then peel and un mask and clear,there you have a fast and easy way of flaming, i would start with a bigger flame,like whats on this car,then with a little practice move on to the smaller tigther flames, i couldnt stop with just the flames i had to add a few fades,then three coats of automovtive nason clear, have fun,good luck.

[insaneMB]

Looks like your a novice pinstriper...shoot me an email and I'll give you some tips

[Guest Gramps-xrds]

Why would you waste BMF like that when you can achieve the same thing using contact shelf vinyl.. I've been doing the same thing for many many yrs using it. on occasion some of the adhesive will stick to the base paint, but a little mineral spirits and baby powder will take it all off and it's a heck of a lot cheaper and easier to use. It comes in various colors and frosted clear..

[gseeds]

Why would you waste BMF like that when you can achieve the same thing using contact shelf vinyl.. I've been doing the same thing for many many yrs using it. on occasion some of the adhesive will stick to the base paint, but a little mineral spirits and baby powder will take it all off and it's a heck of a lot cheaper and easier to use. It comes in various colors and frosted clear..

i guess you could use shelf paper grampa, but ive got plenny BMF laying arould, and im sure most of the modelers here have some on their bench, and i bet most dont have shelf paper or mineral spirits ready at their finger tips,like you old timers, and who wants to deal with adhesive sticky models? what im trying to do give a simple and fast answer to the question " how do you do your flames and can you show me " i did see a few people asking for help,but did'nt see your how to, you welcome to post one, maybe some out there would like to see how to do the same with sticky shelf paper, i would.

Edited July 3, 2010 by gseeds

[Smart-Resins]

I have heard of useing BMF for it. Looks like a great simple way of doing it. I use parafilm, but not always happy with it! I bought some liquid masking from the RC guys and waiting to airbrush that on a model and try it. But this shure looks like a fool proof way of doing it!

[Guest Gramps-xrds]

i guess you could use shelf paper grampa, but ive got plenny BMF laying arould, and im sure most of the modelers here have some on their bench, and i bet most dont have shelf paper or mineral spirits ready at their finger tips,like you old timers, and who wants to deal with adhesive sticky models? what im trying to do give a simple and fast answer to the question " how do you do your flames and can you show me " i did see a few people asking for help,but did'nt see your how to, you welcome to post one, maybe some out there would like to see how to do the same with sticky shelf paper, i would.

Unfortunately G, I don't have any contact paper on hand. (Haven't bought any since I stopped lettering 1:1 pull trucks) Or I'd be glad to show you how I did it. My biggest concern is the cost. BMF is about 6 or 7 bucks a sheet and contact paper is a couple of bucks for a whole big roll. If the contact paper is new stock, you won't have any adhesive problems. As for mineral spirits, well if you're using any enamels, you'll have mineral spirits. It's cheap thinner you can buy at any of the block stores. Contact paper is very flexible and a lot easier to work with compared to BMF. Although I can't show you how, I can show the end result. (The Stud was cleaned using mineral spirits and polishing compound as you can see on the roof it was a mess)

[gseeds]

Unfortunately G, I don't have any contact paper on hand. (Haven't bought any since I stopped lettering 1:1 pull trucks) Or I'd be glad to show you how I did it. My biggest concern is the cost. BMF is about 6 or 7 bucks a sheet and contact paper is a couple of bucks for a whole big roll. If the contact paper is new stock, you won't have any adhesive problems. As for mineral spirits, well if you're using any enamels, you'll have mineral spirits. It's cheap thinner you can buy at any of the block stores. Contact paper is very flexible and a lot easier to work with compared to BMF. Although I can't show you how, I can show the end result. (The Stud was cleaned using mineral spirits and polishing compound as you can see on the roof it was a mess)

when you said mineral spirits i was thinking aha! sign painter!!yes sign painters have use it in one shot enamels,but i fell that todays model builders or after a more real looking paint job and are moving from the enamels and stepping up to the urethanes and clear coats,and the foil even at a little more cost{heck i remember when models only cost $2.00 !!}the BMF works prefect with these paints, and as for the contact paper being flexible, i cant see it being more flexible than BMF,and im sure alot easier to cut with an #11 blade rite on the model,your models do look pretty nice,and i do repect your years as a sign painter,ive been a custom car and bike painter/pinstriper/airbrush artist/letter for the last 35 years myself,and fill i do know a little about paint, ive painted with everything from nitro cellulose to acrylic lacquers to enamels to you name it.

these are a few pics of my stuff.

metal flake and lace and candied top.

this an airbrushed grille and head lites on a fibglass 65 falcon race car.

flame job/pinstriped and lettered.

one shot painted sign.

metal flake and candied to on a 53 ford.

one shot pinstriped cowl.

and these are all models that i used BMF to make curves or flames

all n all i guess its really up to the builder,you know what works best for you as i know what works best for me,my answer to the "how do you do that" is only one of many out there,which everway you pick,good luck and have fun !!!!! gary.

Edited July 3, 2010 by gseeds

[insaneMB]

1Shot changed there formula years ago....reducer is recommended, especially if your using hardners. Spirits are good for cleaning, but thats about it....

[Guest Gramps-xrds]

That's some nice work there Gary. I know what you mean when you say you've used a lot of different paints. So have I, over the years. A lot of the changes that were made in them I didn't really like, but I had to learn to use them anyway. I still use mineral spirits in one shot, but they did change their formula yrs ago to remove the lead. Their not as creamy as they used to be and don't handle the same or cover as well as they used to. Maybe that had something to do with me quitting about 12 yrs ago.

For me to get MBF is almost impossible. I'd have to order it and take my chances on what it looked like when it got here. If you got it and it works for you, then by all means do it. Contact is just a cheap alternative for me and maybe others that can't just drive downtown and pick up BMF.

Keep up the great work my friend.

Gramps

[Geezerman]

One thing I didn't see mentioned in this discussion that may give another plus to using BMF.

BMF is so thin, you won't have as much paint buildup on the edges.

I paint my models with One Shot and the heavier enamels like this do leave a thicker edge to deal with.

Just my opinion. I don't mask. What little graphics I do is freehand airbrush or paint brush.

[Darin Bastedo]

I'm all for using bare metal foil to mask with, although I think in your tutorial it could have been used more sparingly to save the material. It conforms tight to the surface, is easy to cut and best of all is easy to remove. as for the cost, after paying $20-$30 dollars for the kit, $10 on a set of pegasus wheels another $20 on paint, and $15 on photoetch, whats the big deal about a couple of dollars worth of BMF? you will save that much just by not building the Monogram 59 caddy in your stash.