How do YOU make castings of emblems and small parts?

[impcon]

Just thought that this may be a thread that a lot of guys ( and girls?? ) here on the board could benefit from. It's one of those little things that knowing how to do it can sometimes make a big difference on a project. After all, it IS the little things that really make the difference, isn't it?

So what procedures do you use and what materials do you use to make - say for instance - a repop of a fender script or a small part? And what do you use to create that repop of that fender script or small part? And how do you trim and attach it to the project? And another question - how do you make a mold for a larger part - say an exterior visor for a pickup and what would you use to cast it? I saw some casting stuff at Micheals the other day and thought about buying some but figured I'd ask here first to see what you the professionals and experts would suggest. Perhaps a tutorial as a sticky on casting small parts might be a good idea because it is something that a lot of us are going to want to probably try to do sooner or later. Just a suggestion..

[crazymike179011]

honestly i have use blue rtv silocone years ago and epoxy and other fillers.but at hobby town they have a resin kit with a mold makeing kit with it i dont know how good or bad it is.i had good luck with the sealer other than it takes a day or two to set up and be plyable .my instructer at enginering school showed me this trick becouse i never had much money so it was all about cost and i made a few good molds from the rtv sealer.and they were pretty detailed its been 6 years since i did that i use it to make car molds for a display of a garage i built.if you use epoxy please light sand and primer or the paint will just slide off or not take at well.hope this helps in some way.i heard of people useing plater molds already but not sure how maybe try youtube i find ideas off of there becouse there are step by step videos on there of everything.hope something in this was helpful or at least send in you the direction you want to be.

[purplehornies]

For scripts and other small details go to the Auto Parts store and pick up a tube of Red Silicone gasket sealer. You can put about a quarter size blob on the detail you want to copy. After letting it dry for a couple of days peel it off slowly. Hopefuly you have a nice negative of what you want.

Then spray some silicone lube on the mold and let dry. This acts like mold release. Then mix up some clear 2-part epoxy and flow it into your mold. Make sure there are no air bubbles. Let harden. Then sand the back side untill you get very close to what you want to keep. Foil or paint and attach to your model with super-glue or clear Elmers. Plastic gule will not work.

F.W.I.W...

Edited July 30, 2010 by purplehornies

[Brett Barrow]

I make what I call "Squash" molds.

You take some epoxy putty (Apoxie Sculpt, Magic Sculpt, Milliput, etc) "squash" it on the detail you want to copy.

Let it harden, then take plastic sprue and heat it over a flame until it mushrooms, then "squash" that into your epoxy putty mold.

And presto! You've got a copy that you can trim off with a sharp blade.

I'll be converting a 57 Bel Air to a 210 soon, and I'll show how to make copies of the window cranks and door levers when I convert the interior panels, look for a thread the start of next week.

I also posted a link to a Japanese video on YouTube where the modeler makes similar molds out of 2-part Silicone putty and makes the copies with solder. Thread is here - http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=33454

[charlie8575]

Another method I've seen used for scripts and such, especially if you want it to be chrome anyway, is to place some aluminum foil over it, firmly burnish around it to get a good impression and carefully remove it. Fill in the impressions with five-minute epoxy, allow to dry, trim carefully and apply.

Charlie Larkin

[Darren B]

Awesome ideas, I love little tips and tricks like this for the small details, keep em coming it never hurts to have a full toolbox of techniques up ones sleeve...

[whale392]

Maybe working in aviation and having access to cool stuff has biased me, but here goes. I shoot the original (master) with either PTFE Teflon Spray lube or PTFE Mold release agent. Then, I mix up some PRC/Desoto B1/4 or B1/2 sealant (rubber type two-part) and lay that over the master....let the PRC dry (it is anerobic, so it will dry no matter what). The release will free the mold from the master easily. Then, depending on what I will do with the copy, I pick my casting agent. Most times I use spare sprue melted in liquid glue, but for something I will polish I use some A4 MetalSet (Aluminum impregnated resin two-part epoxy). I put just enough into the mold to barely fill it when the material hardens. Pop your copy from the mold, wrap some heavy tape around your finger, and using the tape to hold the part rub its back across some fine grit sandpaper. Paint/polish/BMF to your liking and use a tad bit of clear paint to 'glue' it to the model.

[impcon]

Thanks for sharing, guys. I am always amazed at how many different ways there are to do certain things. Many of us have learned from trial and error and others have learned from someone who has "walked through the minefield" before us. Many times, those people learned by experimenting and finding a solution. One of the nice things about this hobby is how people share their knowledge to try to help others. Another nice thing is that there are no "carved in stone" rules for most things - it's what ever works for you. Thanks again and please keep the posts coming.