64 Ford Thunder Bolt (Decal Question)

[Brutalform]

Got another kit in the works...I can't just do one, gotta keep busy while the paint dries on the others.

I would like this T Bolt to resemble Platts car with the Boyds Blue Pearl exterior, and a Champagne interior. I read on here that some Boyds paints would flake, so I shot primer, laid a blue base, then the Boyds Pearl. Looks OK I guess. Went with a Ford Red engine to add some color.

My question is should I lay down the decals, then clear, and polish, then do BMF last? Any opinions would be appreciated.

Got a few pics here also.

[59-Desoto]

Got another kit in the works...I can't just do one, gotta keep busy while the paint dries on the others.

I would like this T Bolt to resemble Platts car with the Boyds Blue Pearl exterior, and a Champagne interior. I read on here that some Boyds paints would flake, so I shot primer, laid a blue base, then the Boyds Pearl. Looks OK I guess. Went with a Ford Red engine to add some color.

My question is should I lay down the decals, then clear, and polish, then do BMF last? Any opinions would be appreciated.

Got a few pics here also.

I can only speak for my self but I prefer to lay the decals then clear , but I use a urethane clear and makes covering decal a breeze .

[BigEdsGarage]

Paint, decals, clear, polish then BMF is how I usually do mine. Some people have cleared over the BMF but I have never tried that and don't see a need to.

Also, I would be cautious using any of the new lacquer clears over decals, test it on a spare part first. I have only used the model master, testors or urethane clear over decals so I'm not sure if any other brands would attack the decal. Hopefully someone else will chime in on this topic.

BTW, I think the blue and champagne combo is going to look great and is a nice change from all the red T Bolts we usually see built.

Edited August 27, 2010 by BigEdsGarage

[Brutalform]

Thanks for the replies guys. I recently built the Dyno Don 61 Impala, and cleared it first, then applied the decals. That's the way I always did it in my younger days, except not using any clear. I was hoping to get the decals to look like it was part of the paint job, and to keep them laying flat on the model.

I don't have an air brush as of yet, and I just moved on to trying the Tamiya lacquer spray cans. I will test the clear on them before giving it a final.

Thanks for the tips.

[Bill Eh?]

A word of caution with the Tamiya TS clear. Test spray it on a part of the decal first, such as the decal copyright wording. If things go bad, then no loss. Just don't want to see decals get ruined and a build put on hold. I've got a T-Bolt with Platt decals to do the Georgia Shaker, and would love to see your build finished. Looks great so far and your interior choice for color looks fantastic.

[Brutalform]

Thanks for the reply Bill.

I looked online and found some actual pics of the car. It was being auctioned off at Barrett Jackson. The pics had some nice interior views, and some really great all around body shots. Some pieces in the kit, like the air intake differs from the car. I am currently waiting for some resin auto race shifters, and would really like to install a roll bar, or cage, can't seem to find any though...and my scratch skills are not the best.

I will post more pics as I get more accomplished. Right now I am working on my 62 Bel Air. That's whats so great about this hobby, besides the model car community on these boards, you can have many projects going, and not get bored.

Thanks for the added advice on the clearing of decals. I don't remember the name, but does that decal liquid work better than water?

Edited August 28, 2010 by Brutalform

[Brutalform]

Got all the decals on except the "Little Georgia Shaker" because they go over a large body line, and I had to pick up some Micro Sol before doing it.

After I get the last two decals on, I will use a decal that is supplied that I am not using to attach to a scrap hood, so I can test the clear coat on it.

Took a few pics.

[Bill Eh?]

Tom, it looks great with the decals on. Nice job detailing the engine and compartment.

[Brutalform]

Oh I almost forgot. I wanted a roll bar for this car, and since one was not supplied, I made my own. I just bought some DM racing seat belts, and I am waiting for a resin racing automatic shifter, and it just would not look complete without a bar. Took a few pics of the unpainted bar, after trying some homemade padding. The padding was cut from a flexible adhesive fabric Band Aid. I think I will remove it and try something else that looks more realistic though.

[Brutalform]

Thanks Bill. There is alot of chrome parts on this engine...so I stripped the carb hat, and the intake manifold, and painted the hat flat silver, and the intake flat aluminum. Would really like to make the carbs look more real, instead of the ugly gold.

[Brutalform]

Painted the bar, and added new padding. Also gave it a try with D M seat belts. Not too bad I guess for a first timer. I'm sure the more I do them the better they will look.

[CrewDawg15]

The roll bar looks a lot better than you originally had it. I know gold sometimes look a little overpowering on smaller parts. Something you might want to try is mix up a batch of half gold and half silver, or 75% gold and 25% silver. this really tones it down a bit, and it also good for replicating cadium plating for bolt details.

Keep up the good work.

Jimmy