1:1 cars

[oversteer]

Just curios,do most people that enjoy building model cars know how 1:1 cars work?

I know I dont.

Rich

[Jamez]

I've been a licensed automotive journeyman for 5 years now.

I build models because my wife says the real thing is to expensive

But one day.....

[Nick Winter]

I'm currently in High school but I do plan on a career in the Automotive industry, for now I'm in Auto shop, but yeah I know how most vehicles work and how to fix most problems.

and a I remember a guy had a signature "Model Cars, 1:1 project cars for poeple without the space or money" or something to that nature.

Nick

[slant6]

I took auto shop in high school, so I know the basics, and do most of my own repairs. I can also diagnose most problems, even if I cant fix em. I am an MECP certified installer, and the shop manager at my store.

[Ben]

Been a technician all my life. Started out with motorcycles, moved to cars and trucks now I'm a master tech on the multi million dollar motor coaches.

[sobpinstriping]

I'm always learning, I rebuilt and swaped the engine in my truck, and have done all sorts of repairs, I drive a 65 f-100 so you have to learn how to fix things on older cars because if it breaks I'm stuck.

cheers

mat

[High octane]

Yes, I do as back in the 60's I used to drag race both on street & strip. I also used to yank out motors & tranny's, rebuild & modify carbs also. Now I hsve a good mechanic to work on my vehicles so that I can enjoy retirement and not turn wrenches anymore.

[oversteer]

Thanks for those great answers.

Presently I walk to work(20min) but I'm purchasing a house an hour away from where I work.

Can anyone make some suggestions on a car that would be used for a 1hr commute?

I live in the north east (ny)

Front wheel drive? Or does it matter?

The problem is I have to keep gas mileage in mind.

Any good books or websites to help a rookie like me understand the fundamentals?

Thanks

Rich

[Corvette.Jeff]

id get a civic,theyre pretty fast and get about 20mpg in city.

i too(even though im only 19) have been turning wrenches for forever.

i used to have a corvette and didnt want to pay the shop bill so i learned how to fix it myself.

[Monte's Motors]

Thanks for those great answers.

Presently I walk to work(20min) but I'm purchasing a house an hour away from where I work.

Can anyone make some suggestions on a car that would be used for a 1hr commute?

I live in the north east (ny)

Front wheel drive? Or does it matter?

The problem is I have to keep gas mileage in mind.

Any good books or websites to help a rookie like me understand the fundamentals?

Thanks

Rich

As a 21 year veteran of auto mechanics, you need '95 to '05 Buick LeSabre/Park Ave.

They talk today about getting 30 MPG. These cars were getting 30 MPG back then. It's no problem for these cars to get 200,000 miles. Even 300,000 is not a problem.

Edited October 30, 2010 by Monte's Motors

[charlie8575]

As a 21 year veteran of auto mechanics, you need '95 to '05 Buick LeSabre/Park Ave.

They talk today about getting 30 MPG. These cars were getting 30 MPG back then. It's no problem for these cars to get 200,000 miles. Even 300,000 is not a problem.

I second this. I had a LeSabre for a short time and 31-33 miles a gallon wasn't unreasonable, even in-town with the air conditioner on, it was still good for around 24-25 miles a gallon. Most people I know that have these have found them to be exceptionally reliable, well-built, long-lived and very comfortable. Their only real weak spots seem to be the rocker panels and some people have said they will rust at the subframe/main body attachment points. I've found myself looking for a new car recently, and these on very much on the list. For the record, I live in Massachusetts, so I know the type of weather you're going to be dealing with.

The same C/H Body are the Olds Ninety-Eight and Eighty-Eight and Pontiac Bonneville. The 1997-up Park Ave and 2000-up LeSabres are the G-body, same as the Olds Aurora.

Charlie Larkin

[Nick Winter]

I second this. I had a LeSabre for a short time and 31-33 miles a gallon wasn't unreasonable, even in-town with the air conditioner on, it was still good for around 24-25 miles a gallon. Most people I know that have these have found them to be exceptionally reliable, well-built, long-lived and very comfortable. Their only real weak spots seem to be the rocker panels and some people have said they will rust at the subframe/main body attachment points. I've found myself looking for a new car recently, and these on very much on the list. For the record, I live in Massachusetts, so I know the type of weather you're going to be dealing with.

The same C/H Body are the Olds Ninety-Eight and Eighty-Eight and Pontiac Bonneville. The 1997-up Park Ave and 2000-up LeSabres are the G-body, same as the Olds Aurora.

Charlie Larkin

I third it, have 2 in my driveway right now.

[slant6]

Just judging from what I see at work. If I had to pick a reliable, fuel efficient car, it would be a Toyota. The commercials dont lie, there are still a lot of old ones on the road, I see them every day. I dont know about repair/upkeep firsthand, but from what I'm told that's not to bad either, especially if you learn how to do the small stuff yourself, i.e. oil changes, brakes, tune ups, etc., etc. Not my first choice for style or fun, but they sure seem reliable.

[Longbox55]

18 years professionally as a certified master mechanic, but have been wrenching since I was old enough to pick up a wrench and turn a nut. I was one of those kids that took stuff apart to see how it worked, and most times, put it back together and it still worked!

As far as car choices, can't go wrong the those Buicks, the Camry is a fine car, too. I would also throw in the late Impalas as well. Just watch out for the front hub assemblies on the GM products, they're prone to early failure.

Other good choices would be the S10 pickups/Blazers. Solid little trucks, decent mileage, and they do well in the snow, especialy the Blazer due to better weight distributation.

[seeker589]

Is the car for anything other than getting from point A to point B?

What is your budget?

What is your lifestyle?

Do you have wife or kids? Pets?

What are your other interests - I.E. Autocross, Camping, Sports, cycling, etc?

What cars appeal to YOU?

While I have seen LeSabers go for miles and miles - the repair bills can be very expensive if you are paying someone else to work on it.

The Honda Civic has been mentioned. I would also recommend the 1994 to 2001 Acura Integra. Good mileage and fun drive. Tons of aftermarket and web support. Parts are plentiful for both the Civic and Integra.

Also don't leave out the Honda Accord.

Subaru Impreza, Legacy or Outback are great all-wheel-drive alternatives.

The Chevy Cobalt is a reverse engineered Civic. But I'm not sure of their track record.

These cars can be had for anywhere from $2000 to over $20,000. Just buy the best example you can afford.

[Railfreak78]

Just judging from what I see at work. If I had to pick a reliable, fuel efficient car, it would be a Toyota. The commercials dont lie, there are still a lot of old ones on the road, I see them every day. I dont know about repair/upkeep firsthand, but from what I'm told that's not to bad either, especially if you learn how to do the small stuff yourself, i.e. oil changes, brakes, tune ups, etc., etc. Not my first choice for style or fun, but they sure seem reliable.

I hated Toyota for a long time ( Mainly Nascar) but anyway I bought my older Camry for $100. People make fun of me all the time cause of how it looks and that it has no options. I drove this car in the snow in Washington state and the heat of Phoenix, AZ. I am less than an oil change away from hitting 300 thousand miles. Now I laugh at the people that made fun of my car and theirs is blown up.

Edit: mine is an 86 and still gets 38MPG highway

Edited October 31, 2010 by Railfreak78

[Longbox55]

The Chevy Cobalt is a reverse engineered Civic.

That's not correct. The Cobalt is a rebadged Saturn Ion, based on GMs Delta Platform. If you take a good look at them, you can see the roots in the last generation Cavalier in the basic structure and suspension. The only part of it that resembles a Civic is that it's a 4 cylinder compact. They're actually not bad little cars, Enterprise Rental Cars use them, and they get beat on pretty bad. But they hold up very well to the abuse. BTW, the HHR is also based on the same platform.

[Jamez]

I'll admit to not reading most of the responses, but a car is what you make it...

My '97 civic gets 36mpg in the city and has cost me approx. $850, not counting oil changes, in 6 years of ownership. That cost being 2 timing belts/water pumps, and a catalytic converter - timing belts done just for maintenance, and because they are cheap (obviously I do my own labour)

To the lesare/park avenue... hubs fail at a remarkable rate, "w" coded cars have terrible brakes, and ignition modules are expensive, but inevitable once or twice in the lifetime replacement. Intake gaskets every 80,000 - 100,000km on the 3.1l. Otherwise very reliable.

S10 blazers..... stay away, VERY FAR away.... Intakes, then engines if not done properly, hubs fail even more frequently than the cars, front ends fall out and the 4x4 system fails, if the encoder goes out, like is has on almost everyone of my customers, your looking at a %1300 part, that is if it didn't throw you into 4low at 90km/hr. Yeah, I hate those trucks, though for me, they are very profitable.

Do your research, ask as many questions as you can think of, demand maintenance records, and if you buy used, get a pre-purchase inspection, its worth the 45 bucks if it saves yo buying a lemon.

A car is what you make it..... treat it good and it'll treat you goos, treat it like ######, and your gonna pay, literally.

[seeker589]

That's not correct. The Cobalt is a rebadged Saturn Ion, based on GMs Delta Platform. If you take a good look at them, you can see the roots in the last generation Cavalier in the basic structure and suspension. The only part of it that resembles a Civic is that it's a 4 cylinder compact. They're actually not bad little cars, Enterprise Rental Cars use them, and they get beat on pretty bad. But they hold up very well to the abuse. BTW, the HHR is also based on the same platform.

Bill -

I am NOT saying the Cobalt is a rebadged Civic in any way. A AM saying that GM evaluated the Civic's design and build a better car in the Cobalt.

While the Ion came out almost a year before the Cobalt - GM had already planned the release of the Ion, Cobalt and the Pontiac relative (the name escapes me) from the beginning of the design. Oddly enough - the automotive press loved the Cobalt and the Cobalt SS much more than the Ion and Ion Redline. The larger door opening on the Ion (it had that stange suicide rear half door - great idea but not for a performance car) that caused the chassis to flex - therefore, making the "feel" of the car numb.

I read articles about the Cobalt when it was new. The design team tore apart Civics and Acura Integras (as well as other Sport Compacts) and evaluated the strengths and weaknesses of the designs - then designed what they thought would be a better car. The drivetrains are quite stout. Sport Compact Car Magazine put a turbo on a stock base model Ecotec then boosted it to over 300 horsepower with a stock bottom end with no breakage. Stock output is around 135hp - give or take. Also the stock trans and axles from a Cobalt SS is said to be able to take 500 horsepower without breakage.

You would be surprised to know how many manufacturers buy, test and evaluate their competition learning from each others mistakes and design breakthroughs. This is what is reverse engineering. I was reading that Porsche had Nissan Z-cars and Corvettes in their garages for teardown and evaluation.

The HHR is a fine car. I have some friends that liked the first one they bought so much that within the first year of ownership - they had to buy another! They now have two and love them!

The Cobalt is a fine car. I would have one if I could afford one. Child support has taken the wind out of my car-buying desires.

[Kaleb]

I agree on the buick, my parents gave us a 98 lesabre for a trade in we drove it for a long time before. When we traded it in we had over 200k miles.

[ericfreeman]

Back to Oversteers original question. I have been involved in automotive repair for over thirty years. I am ASE certified. I am currently employed as the service manager in a ten bay shop with six mechanics reporting to me. Now that I have tooted my own horn I would like to offer some criticism and advice. Model companies and contributors to this forum many times do a very poor job of depicting details in the cars they are building, especially when it comes to a car's suspension. I have seen lower control arms that lead off to nowhere, highly detailed engine compartments with no hint of a steering gear box, and beautifully done wheels missing any brake detail, or worse yet, period correct '40's Buicks sporting 4 wheel Brembo disc brakes. The best way to learn about how a car works is to start with the basics. Pick up the Round 2 rendition of the 3in1 1925 Model T. Investigate its various components online. Then build. It is a lot easier to add a detail when you understand not only what it is but why it is there. For instance on a carbureted vehicle the fuel line runs from the fuel tank (normally from close to the top of the tank) to the fuel pump. It is located close to the inside of the frame rail for safety reasons. The fuel pump does two jobs, number one it has a suction stroke which draws fuel from the gas tank. Secondly it has a pressure stroke that supplies fuel usually to the front of the carburetor. Between the pump and the carb there is a filter that looks somewhat like a small Pepsi can that traps any impurities in the gas. I hope this helps, and answers your question.

[ChrisPflug]

I'll admit to not reading most of the responses, but a car is what you make it...

My '97 civic gets 36mpg in the city and has cost me approx. $850, not counting oil changes, in 6 years of ownership. That cost being 2 timing belts/water pumps, and a catalytic converter - timing belts done just for maintenance, and because they are cheap (obviously I do my own labour)

To the lesare/park avenue... hubs fail at a remarkable rate, "w" coded cars have terrible brakes, and ignition modules are expensive, but inevitable once or twice in the lifetime replacement. Intake gaskets every 80,000 - 100,000km on the 3.1l. Otherwise very reliable.

S10 blazers..... stay away, VERY FAR away.... Intakes, then engines if not done properly, hubs fail even more frequently than the cars, front ends fall out and the 4x4 system fails, if the encoder goes out, like is has on almost everyone of my customers, your looking at a %1300 part, that is if it didn't throw you into 4low at 90km/hr. Yeah, I hate those trucks, though for me, they are very profitable.

Do your research, ask as many questions as you can think of, demand maintenance records, and if you buy used, get a pre-purchase inspection, its worth the 45 bucks if it saves yo buying a lemon.

A car is what you make it..... treat it good and it'll treat you goos, treat it like ######, and your gonna pay, literally.

Remember- the plural of antecdote is not "data"-

[DRG]

I started working on cars when I was fourteen in 1964. It took me two years and a lot of part time jobs to restore my 56 Ford Crown Vicky.

Next up was a 1961 Chevt Impala SS with a 409.

Now I'm to old and stove up to work on cars so I build models instead.

[oversteer]

My budget is about 5k.I also would have to buy some extra wheels and some blizzaks for the snow.

What about the older diesel mercedes,aren't they supposed to be bullet proof?

[oversteer]

My budget is about 5k.I also would have to buy some extra wheels and some blizzaks for the snow.

What about the older diesel mercedes,aren't they supposed to be bullet proof?

Oh and this will be my primary vehicle.

Just me no kids or wife.

Thanks