Cato Posted October 18, 2011 Share Posted October 18, 2011 Have tried more posts but won't work. Have reported problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
W-409 Posted October 18, 2011 Author Share Posted October 18, 2011 Thanks, Doctor and Cato! Sorry to hear that you have problems, hope you can get them solved. But those pictures help very much already. All of the Cobras didn't have that Fluidyne logo on the radiator? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cato Posted October 18, 2011 Share Posted October 18, 2011 All of the Cobras didn't have that Fluidyne logo on the radiator? No, that is used on the newest Shelby CSX's. Originals were made by Serck but these are the same configuration. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cato Posted October 18, 2011 Share Posted October 18, 2011 Trying again Niko: More coming. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cato Posted October 18, 2011 Share Posted October 18, 2011 OK a few more to get you going. All of these are the chassis of an over-restored car from the rear looking forward. Everything on original 60's cars was black: If you have questions, I will explain what you're looking at. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
W-409 Posted October 19, 2011 Author Share Posted October 19, 2011 THANKS!!! Those pictures are great, and they help me very much. I have no questions right now, but let's see when I can get started with the chassis. It's all black, Ok, that's good to know and see. Thanks again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cato Posted October 19, 2011 Share Posted October 19, 2011 Keep us posted Niko. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
W-409 Posted October 22, 2011 Author Share Posted October 22, 2011 Thanks, Cato and here we go, little update. But I had some problems with the network connections after thunderstorm on thursday night, so I couldn't post this update earlier. Anyway, the interior was without paint, so I painted it with Revell's flat black and hopefully today I can put some flocking there. I'm going to paint some chassis parts today also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
W-409 Posted October 22, 2011 Author Share Posted October 22, 2011 Here we go again.... I worked with the wheels now, I opened those holes, some of them were bit rough, now they are better. I painted those wheels with two colors, Humbroll's Polished Aluminium, and that center part is painted Humbroll's enamel, number 53. I tried replicating magnesium, I think they are pretty good, but what you think, maybe I should do something better? I did little mock up for the wheels, but tires need still some work. And I painted the transmission too. I'm not sure about the valve covers yet. What do you guys think, should I strip the chrome and paint off and paint them polished aluminium, and then some black wash, or if I just leave them like that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cato Posted October 22, 2011 Share Posted October 22, 2011 Those covers were cast aluminum which was left as dull cast or polished by fussy owners. You can leave it if you like the polished look. You can very lightly and evenly scuff that with oooo steel wool which gives them a toned-down effect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
W-409 Posted October 23, 2011 Author Share Posted October 23, 2011 Thanks, Cato! I'll strip the chrome and paint off, then I will paint them... Bit black wash maybe after that, let's see. But I just want them to be more realistic, and I think, no one has polished them on this car. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yenkonut Posted October 24, 2011 Share Posted October 24, 2011 hey niko i have a question what is the color you painted the cobra i like it and wanna either try and get it color matched or find it in my area thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
W-409 Posted October 24, 2011 Author Share Posted October 24, 2011 Thanks, Ryan, and this is straight copy from page four. You mean that Street Cobra? It's bought from local auto parts dealer (Biltema). Biltema has Hobby paints, and that is Hobby paint and then they have "car colors". They are That store has everything you don't need... But those paints are pretty good. Well, some of them. That blue metallic paint is good quality, and red and gold are good ones too. I have tried some others too, but they were really bad. Most of the people are saying, those paints are bad, and I'll say that Metallic Blue, Gloss red and gold HOBBY PAINTS are good quality, but other ones, I've tried are really bad. It's good to spray clear on those parts, Cobra has no clear, but it's not bad idea... If you use clear, use Biltema's clear for hobby paints!!! Otherwise paintjob will go wrong, I think. You must be VERY careful with those paints, but it's possible to paint good paintjob. Maybe there's no Biltema in USA.. But many other paint makes are close to that color, I believe. They might be better quality too. Maston has Metallic blue, and that's quite good, I think. It's bit lighter blue. Hope it helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cato Posted October 24, 2011 Share Posted October 24, 2011 Niko, Here are those covers in polished form: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
W-409 Posted October 24, 2011 Author Share Posted October 24, 2011 Thanks again, Cato!!! Well, those look so good that I'm going to change my plans. I don't strip the chrome, I will paint those black parts from valve covers with silver, and then they are looking like polished, I think.... Little update also. Intake manifold is glued on its place, I painted it with polished aluminium. It looks just better than somekind of "gun metal".... And oil pan is glued, I left it chromed, just giving bit of different look, there are coming so much silver parts, and black oil pan wouldn't look good either. Also I have carburetor ready for paint. And after I have painted it, then I'll detail it a little. I already drilled holes for it, but they are going to be under the air cleaner in finished model. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cato Posted October 24, 2011 Share Posted October 24, 2011 Here's what you're shooting for: That Aviad oill pan is dull silver color-it's cad plated steel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigphoto Posted October 24, 2011 Share Posted October 24, 2011 Here's what you're shooting for: That Aviad oill pan is dull silver color-it's cad plated steel. Thats kind of a rough looking engine!! I like it it looks well used! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cato Posted October 24, 2011 Share Posted October 24, 2011 Thats kind of a rough looking engine!! I like it it looks well used! Un-restored small block car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speedy5963 Posted October 25, 2011 Share Posted October 25, 2011 Looking good! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
W-409 Posted October 25, 2011 Author Share Posted October 25, 2011 Thanks, Cato, that picture is great and helps alot. This kit has that part around the carburetor, should I drill holes for carburetor linkages etc.? Race Cobras had that part, I think, but I'm not sure... As in this picture. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cato Posted October 25, 2011 Share Posted October 25, 2011 Your choice Niko. Competition and S/C cars had them, not street cars. However many, many owners of replicas and even some restored originals have them-they just love the race look. They are called 'turkey pans' and they keep heat from around the carb and seal the carb to the open hood scoop. In the photo you sent, they have small holes on the passenger side for idle mixture screw adjustment, bigger holes below that for the f/r fuel lines and on the driver side they have holes for the throttle linkage. They have 4 small holes on the front and rear for removing the fuel bowl screws but it's easier to remove the whole carb than work on it in the pan. They don't all have the lip around the top. If you want to use one, I suggest you easily make one out of .005" baking pan aluminum. It's much more to scale than the thick part you get in kits. That will make it 1/8" thick in 1:1 (they were .0625") but still much better than the kit part. Here's the one I made for my 1/12 GT 40-it's exactly right in this scale: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkJ Posted October 25, 2011 Share Posted October 25, 2011 Great job, Niko. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
W-409 Posted October 27, 2011 Author Share Posted October 27, 2011 Thanks again, Cato and Mark! Cato: I'll build one from aluminium, as suggested. I want to get this one realistic, and without your informations, huge thanks from them! I'll continue this one soon, but I'm having two other projects to finish soon for a model car contest, they will be first on line, and then I continue this one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cato Posted October 27, 2011 Share Posted October 27, 2011 My pleasure Niko. Keep working. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
W-409 Posted October 30, 2011 Author Share Posted October 30, 2011 Here are two pictures... I installed the valve covers, and I painted some silver on them to give more realistic look. I'm going to add the carburetor next and then I must build that "Turkey pan" from aluminium and stuff like that... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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