two car garage

[GTMust]

Inspired by Dr. Cranky's Lab-rat-ory and philbass's tutorial on making "brick" walls., I decided to build a typical two car garage in 1/24 scale. The idea is that the "garage" was originally a small 20' x 12' single car garage built around the 1920's that has been expanded and upgraded in the 50's or 60's. Some of the construction will reflect this expansion.

I started with an old 12" x 24" x 5/8" melamine cupboard door as a base and built 3/16" foamboard walls to three sides.

Following eric's tutorial I added brickwork to the front wall and framed the garage door openings.

Then I added an asphalt driveway and a fence.

After weathering the fence and driveway with a wash I started on the inside of the garage. I added congrete bases for two brick piers that will support the steel beams for the attic floor.

I made the beams from strips of styrene.

The Overhead doors were assembled from bass wood and are intended to operate when I can figure out how to build the track and hardware.

(If I can't figure it out, I'll probably used large barn style doors instead!)

[Ghost1]

Dio is looking real good.

[disabled modeler]

Garage is looking good to me, how did you get the worn look on the floor?

[Dr. Cranky]

Way to go, buddy, that's looking great. Keep it going. I love it!

[Harry P.]

I love the little dog!

[Tony T]

Looks great so far!

[GTMust]

Thanks for the positives, guys. Just what I need to keep going....

The garage floor was made by scratching the surface of thin styrene sheet with 80 grit sandpaper and then gluing it to the base with white glue. I used two sheets of thin styrene butted together at the centre of the column bases and then scratched the other "expansion" joints using the back of a blunt #11 Exacto blade. The brick pier bases are simply small squares of styrene glued to the surface and sanded at the edges to looked like the concrete is worn. I flooded a watery wash of tan and light gray acrylic paints over the whole surface and let it puddle where it wanted. I will apply additional washes until I get the depth of color that I want. I've never tried this before, so it's all experimental and I'm keeping my fingers crossed! Next job is to finish the two interior brick piers and set them on their concrete pads.

[crazyjim]

Looking most excellent, Tony.

[GTMust]

Thanks Jim.

I added a couple more washes to the concrete floor last night and... I think I overdid it! I may be able to sand some of the color out with fine wet and dry. Pictures of my boo-boo will follow.... and then after I (hopefully) fix it.

Meanwhile, I gave up on operating OH doors. That would be a six month project all by itself. So barn style doors it will be!

[vaughn]

Really nice work...keep on !

[EH225M]

Tony,

Don't give up!! You're doing well!

Barn doors would be more appropriate for a garage built in the 20's anyway.

I have a tilt - a - door in my garage that has a fairly simple mechanism, although I look at it in 1:1 scale!!

I can email you pics of it if you want....

I can't post to the board, I just don't know how. I need someone to hold my hand while I attempt it.

James.

[GTMust]

You're right James. Barn doors it is!

I think I saved the concrete floor... The brick piers and steel beams are in place,and should have set up over night. More pics later today.

[Dr. Cranky]

Take your vitamins and keep going. This one is going to be a winner. Plus you are having a blast!

[Eshaver]

First, nice work on the Brick.............

The doors , heres an area where some of you may be not too familiar.

Back in the 1920's many doors on garages were hung on heavy scedule 40 tracks . These doors were made from Tounge and groove white or Yellow Pine boards . The doors were hung in such a way as to allow the middle to be the break for two halves . Each Half was hung so as to allow the door to swing away from the middle and remain somewhat invisable as the door was opened . it was a company known as Overhead Door that pioneered the Common Spring loaded doors we enjoy today about 1930. If you need a diagram to see how to do these tracks , let me know . I have pictures of the actual garages here where I live ........ Ed Shaver

[BigBlockLyle]

This build is looking incredible and is the push that is helping me plan my own diorama out. I have a question though. What did you use for the asphalt driveway?

[GTMust]

I'm really interested in more info on those doors Ed. Are these like a bifold door on each half? I was thinking of regular barn doors, but your suggestion might be the way to go.

The ashalt paving is 80 grit wet and dry sandpaper glued to the base. With a gray wash it's quite convincing.

The concrete wash dried out lighter than I thought it would and I think it will be OK with a little more weathering and spills and stains, etc.

I erected the brick piers and steel beams ready for the attic floor.

And I couldn't resist trying it out for size with a '66 Malibu I built a while back. By the way guys.... that's not pink, it's "Salmon", for those that may wonder.

[GTMust]

OOps!! Slight typo... or is it the age creeping up on me?

That asphalt is 180 grit wet and dry sandpaper not 80!

[vaughn]

looking great.

[GTMust]

This afternoon I also started to build the attic floor. This will only be over the "original" single car garage, and the new extension has a higher ceiling to allow for a hoist. (Boy, I wish I had a real garage like this!)

A stair will connect the main floor with the attic.. (where the framing square is located.)

I made the attic floor removable to access the lower floor so that I can add or remove vehicles and accessories when I need to.

[vaughn]

Pretty darn cool. Are the rafters and frameimg of wood?

[GTMust]

Yes Terry.

The rafters are 1/4" x 1/16" balsa and the floor is basswood. I had to use "out of scale" 1/16" basswood to keep the floor from warping. A protective barrier along the edge will hide the thickness. All the perimeter framing is various sizes of basswood strips.

Ed: I got your PM on the doors but it's still a little confusing. Any chance of a picture? (I'm told they speak a thousand words!)

[GTMust]

I've built the stairs to the attic and added them to the rear wall. I've also started a partial corner exterior wall with a door opening.

I started a front gable wall that will be framed to show the original roof line of the 1920's single car garage and the extended roof line with more recent construction methods.

I haven't yet decided on the finish to the gable above the brickwork, but will probably use some kind of siding material.

[vaughn]

Thats lookin really good Tony. Like the steps and gable work. Is all your wood work out of balsa? I have not yet worked with styrine for Dios...only wood. keep on.

[GTMust]

I am using basswood for 90% of the woodwork. It's stronger and harder than balsa, but is more difficult to cut against the grain. The joists were made of balsa as I had a lot of them to cut. The rafters will also be balsa for the same reason.

I don't use a lot of styrene. I haven't been into dio's for very long and I haven't yet found a styrene adhesive that doesn't destroy foamcore board (like plastic cement).

I've added the other end gable wall and ridge beam.

I will add the gable wall framing before fixing both gables permanently in place.

[GTMust]

I've been adding the framing for the gable walls and have the roof laid out.

(The front wall isn't attached yet... hence the gap!)

One of the problems I'm experiencing with foamboard is the it will warp just by itself and it has to be braced to keep it straight. Applying glue or paint to it can make it warp even more.

As I plan to weather all the wood surfaces with an acrylic wash, I concerned that the whole model will bend out of shape. Does anyone have any ideas how I can avoid this happening? All suggestions welcome....