Detailing / Weathering Engines

[jwood]

I was just wondering what some tips or tricks are to detailing engines? When I say detailing I mean weathering the engine and making the chrome looked used like in the attached pic.

Is there anything else other than chalks to use for effects like this . . . washes or special paints? I can't seem to achieve any level of realism when trying to make my model car engines looked used.

Any advice?

Thanks,

J

[Jantrix]

Yep, I've used mostly washes. You can add as much gunk or as little, depending on how thin you make the wash. You can thin down regular enamels with some thinner, but most folks use acrylics or india inks for washes as there's no chance of disturbing the chrome or other paints. Some grey to black acrylic craft paints thinned with water are your best bet. Do some experimenting and see what you come up with.

[jwood]

since that's my engine in the picture i'll tell you that i used Mig productions pre-mixed washes. i also like to mix my own using Testors enamels and thier paint thinner. i've tried the acrylic or water based washes and don't prefer them but i think there are some out there too from Citadel that are pre-mixed. i don't like the Detailer washes at all.

I was hoping the builder would reply!!

Thank you both for the advice. I have thought about cheking into the Citidal washes in the past. I might have to give them a try to see what I can come up with.

[Cato]

First, study real engines, not just reference pix. Engines all have nooks and crannies which collect oil sweat, dust and ozone.

Get metalizer or Alclad finishes that match the metals you've seen. Things like Holley carbs, linkages, hard lines look best done this way and have a very slight sheen. Then stain selectively with very thin oils in umber or gray. Create shadows in manifold low spots, spark plug holes and such but be SUBTLE.

Here's a reference shot which illustrates some of this:

For well used engines, tone down chrome by scuffing lightly with 0000 steel wool-not painting. Use thin ink washes to simulate oil sweat and fingerprints around valve covers and distributors. Avoid blue/red/yellow wires and hoses-black is they way they were originally and adds to the distressed effect. Use clear blue to simulate heat on chrome and clear orange and tea stains for gas stains on carbs and intakes. Stainless exhausts should not be bright and must have different tans, grays and browns on hot/cooler areas. Look at the real thing first. Add weld seams. Then add a mist of thinned Future for a slight sheen. Dullcote sprayed on various areas simulates dust and road film very well.

Practice a lot and study the real thing.

[outlaw035]

where can u get Mig productions pre-mixed washes and Citidal washes....

[Erik Smith]

I have used the Citadel washes - you can find them at gaming stores and hobby shops, as mentioned above. I use the black, mud, and sepia colors. After a wash of color, try drybrushing high spots to add extra layer of detail. I usually add more than one wash on well used engines, even all three colors. Even lightly used or show cars benefit from a light wash as it represents shadows and detail not possible at scale.

Try picking up a magazine with some military models for tips too - those builders weather extensively.

[cruz]

I have been using the Citadel washes lately on my engines and I am very pleased with them. I like the fact that you can apply them liberally since they go on pretty light and you can always add more as you go if you so desire. Here are a few of my engines...

Hosted on Fotki

Hosted on Fotki

Hosted on Fotki

I have also used them around my chassis and other parts like wheels and the Bare Metal Foil around the windows.

Hosted on Fotki

Hosted on Fotki