Nick Winter Posted February 9, 2011 Posted February 9, 2011 (edited) Ok I finally got the PE and the car, but before I start I have a few questions about the car and the PE. 1.) If the script/grille moulding is molded to the car, but I have a PE version of it do I need to sand off the plastic one? 2.) Are there any tricks to getting the front valence correct? 3.) It has the exuast molded to the floor pan/frame, how do I detail this? BMF? 4.) The PE set came with hood pin cotter pins and the face plates but not the little post for the pin to slip into, how do I make one or? 5.) The Real Cuda has hood pin chains/strings, how can I make these? and how would I attach these to the PE? 6.) Can PE be painted with regular hobby paints? 7.) How do you polish PE? And with what? 8.) The ride height is very screwy (way too low) upon mockup, how is this fixed? I appreciate the help guys, I'm new to this PE stuff and I'm not a big Revell builder. Nick Edited February 9, 2011 by Nick Winter
Roadkill2525 Posted February 9, 2011 Posted February 9, 2011 On 2/9/2011 at 8:44 PM, Nick Winter said: 1.) If the script/grille moulding is molded to the car, but I have a PE version of it do I need to sand off the plastic one? yes 2.) Are there any tricks to getting the front valence correct? 3.) It has the exuast molded to the floor pan/frame, how do I detail this? BMF? you can tape it off and paint it, BMF it, or grind it out and replace it with aluminium tube 4.) The PE set came with hood pin cotter pins and the face plates but not the little post for the pin to slip into, how do I make one or? use a sewing needle with the eye 5.) The Real Cuda has hood pin chains/strings, how can I make these? and how would I attach these to the PE? use very fine wire and tie a knot to the pin, other end goes through the grille and glue behind the grille 6.) Can PE be painted with regular hobby paints? it can be with a good primer and very light coats 7.) How do you polish PE? And with what? 8.) The ride height is very screwy (way too low) upon mockup The carbs need to be sanded a bit to allow the hood to fit flush when the Shaker scoop is on
Nick Winter Posted February 9, 2011 Author Posted February 9, 2011 Thank You Micheal, I meant to ask if there were any other issues I should know about, but didn't think of typing it. When you say a sewing needle with an eye are your reffering to the kind with the little flat/half-round head? Nick
Roadkill2525 Posted February 9, 2011 Posted February 9, 2011 Sewing needle - (Noun) A small needle with a hole at one end to put the thread through and a sharp pointy end for going through the fabric.
Nick Winter Posted February 9, 2011 Author Posted February 9, 2011 Donnie, My PE set has everything but the posts On 2/9/2011 at 9:32 PM, El Destructo Inc said: Sewing needle - (Noun) A small needle with a hole at one end to put the thread through and a sharp pointy end for going through the fabric. OHHHH the actual needle I thought you meant Pin, duhhh on my part. now I feel Stupid. Nick
niteowl7710 Posted February 9, 2011 Posted February 9, 2011 Sewing needle... Not be confused with the ill-named knitting needle
Nick Winter Posted February 9, 2011 Author Posted February 9, 2011 On 2/9/2011 at 9:35 PM, niteowl7710 said: Sewing needle... Not be confused with the ill-named knitting needle I got the message, It's been a long day, that keeps getting longer for me. Nick
niteowl7710 Posted February 9, 2011 Posted February 9, 2011 On 2/9/2011 at 9:37 PM, Nick Winter said: I got the message, It's been a long day, that keeps getting longer for me. Nick Well in all fairness Nick I posted the same time you did, yours just got posted ahead of mine.
Nick Winter Posted February 9, 2011 Author Posted February 9, 2011 On 2/9/2011 at 9:41 PM, niteowl7710 said: Well in all fairness Nick I posted the same time you did, yours just got posted ahead of mine. No Problem.
niteowl7710 Posted February 9, 2011 Posted February 9, 2011 On 2/9/2011 at 9:42 PM, Wheelman said: Note that example image may not represent the scale you are looking for. Better?
Nick Winter Posted February 9, 2011 Author Posted February 9, 2011 Maybe these pictures will help, First pictures is off the ride height, compared to a picture of the 1:1 Second is the front Valance compared to the 1:1
Nick Winter Posted February 9, 2011 Author Posted February 9, 2011 Dave, The Photoetch is going on this car, the Hemi Cuda is one of my favourite cars and when I build it, I'm going to build it right. As for my skill level, I'm not going to be building this kit for atleast 6 months, maybe more, I already have enough to finish. Mark, Thank you. On 2/9/2011 at 10:15 PM, Donnie Boger said: did you mock it up with the interior bucket in place? Yes I did same ride height, interior dosen't lower or raise it.
Nick Winter Posted February 9, 2011 Author Posted February 9, 2011 So I should definatley sand the carbs to lower the aircleaner
Roadkill2525 Posted February 10, 2011 Posted February 10, 2011 On 2/9/2011 at 10:47 PM, Nick Winter said: So I should definatley sand the carbs to lower the aircleaner That would be the logical thing to do, or just ignore all advice that's been given to you.
ChrisPflug Posted February 10, 2011 Posted February 10, 2011 Still a poor choice of kit for a detailed project- all the added doodads won't make up for poor basic proportions and crude design
Casey Posted February 10, 2011 Posted February 10, 2011 On 2/9/2011 at 10:13 PM, Bluesman Mark said: Ok, the valance will need to be glued in place, then the seam along the side puttied over, & the seams in front, (as seen on the 1/1 car), scribed in, to be accurate. Be aware that when you permanently attach the front valence to the body shell, it will not be easy to get the finished chassis and interior unit into the body. Ditto for the rear valance, which really should be attached to the body before painting, because the rear valence has nothing for positive location. You'll need a gap-filling CA to get it in place securely...and permanently. Now, you could glue the front valence in place, and cut (instead of scribe) the valence edges, making the valence a removable panel, but now you're making even more work. How far do you want to go with this kit? I never had the type of body-to-chassis fit issue as shown in your pic when I built this kit, so I wouldn't worry about it. It won't sit that low in the rear when properly built.
Nick Winter Posted February 10, 2011 Author Posted February 10, 2011 On 2/10/2011 at 9:17 PM, DoubleD said: to answer Casey's question you can get the chassis in place just fine with this kit with the front and rear valences glued in place first. i'd recommend doing so if you build this kit or the coupe version. no reply for you Nick I was wondering that Dave, now it's answered, it will fit, thanks. for now the kit has been un-taped and everything put back in it's box and placed with the rest of my unbuilts. I'm gonna work on getting better paint finishes before I worry about fixing that kits flaws and adding detail to it or my 454SS which I plan to detail up in a smiliar fashion. my appology guys, it just seemed as though you were saying that I basically was clueless which can be insulting. So sorry guys, I took it the wrong the way. Nick
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