BullsEye '62 Impala--The Useful Years

[evilone]

cool thanks.

im doing a build of a modern style flying dutchman using rommel's rod. i have all the dents and bullet holes done up on it already. my question is since its going to be mostly in the desert what kind of aging would i do to it? theres really no water in the desert so there wouldn't be mush cancer rust right? also im making it burst through the sand so how would i make sand look like its flying off the truck? how would i make snakes and lizards look like they are flying through the air as well?

[Dr. Cranky]

All right, here's the painting progress as of this afternoon. This is all airbrush work with Vallejo acrylics (my favorite acrylics right now!) and keep in mind that all the rusting and weathering so far has been accomplished with the salting/hairspray technique AND with the airbrush, that's it. Nothing else has been done to this . . .

There's lots that still needs to be touched up and hit again with the airbrush. The white of the top is too close to some of the body panels, so I might have to change it a bit here and there, and I also sprayed some aluminum which got on places I don't want it . . .

[Dr. Cranky]

Wow, Kevin, that's really challenging, but I can't say it can't be done. In this hobby you push the envelope my trying things.

Okay, here's my idea on the desert. Metal does rust because at night the temperature drops and dew and moisture fall on the vehicle. Check out desert military vehicles from WW2 to the present that other builders have done and see where they put their rust. Do that kind of research and it will pay off. I think I would definitely do rust spots on a desert vehicle, sure, why not?

About the flying sand, I would say cut some clear and flexible food container plastic and form in the shape of sand flying out of the vehicle, like underneath, and then cover that with sand . . . this is going to be a little tough to do, but check out how model ship builders do the waves and water. You might be able to do the same with resin, etc . . .

I would say experiment first on something else so that you don't ruin your model . . .

Give it a try . . . for the snakes, I would roll them out of Games Workshop "Green Stuff" which is two-part epoxy, or better yet do them in Sculpy.

Hope that helps you out.

[evilone]

Wow, Kevin, that's really challenging, but I can't say it can't be done. In this hobby you push the envelope my trying things.

Okay, here's my idea on the desert. Metal does rust because at night the temperature drops and dew and moisture fall on the vehicle. Check out desert military vehicles from WW2 to the present that other builders have done and see where they put their rust. Do that kind of research and it will pay off. I think I would definitely do rust spots on a desert vehicle, sure, why not?

About the flying sand, I would say cut some clear and flexible food container plastic and form in the shape of sand flying out of the vehicle, like underneath, and then cover that with sand . . . this is going to be a little tough to do, but check out how model ship builders do the waves and water. You might be able to do the same with resin, etc . . .

I would say experiment first on something else so that you don't ruin your model . . .

Give it a try . . . for the snakes, I would roll them out of Games Workshop "Green Stuff" which is two-part epoxy, or better yet do them in Sculpy.

Hope that helps you out.

hmm this will work bro thanks.

[Dr. Cranky]

Here are a few more shots . . .

And here's this build's namesake element:

It was almost impossible to do but finally I decided to try my shakey hand at freehanding it. I think it looks all right . . . I wanted to give it that rattlecan look.

[Dr. Cranky]

The build is going to be displayed in the diorama with both the hood and trunk lids up . . .

Stay tuned in for more progress . . .

[evilone]

Ahh doc shes still saveable lol granted you need alot of cash but shes still saveable lol

[Rinseman]

You are unbelievable. Truly jaw-dropping.

[Dr. Cranky]

Thanks, I really appreciate the good cheerleading. I went back and added just a touch of color with a sponge and a little bit of rust here and there . . . trying not to overdoit, right? Yeah, right.

Stay tuned in for more pics . . .

[Dr. Cranky]

Here is the latest progress . . . just adding accents here and there, broken lights in the back and the one single broken headlight glass left . . . etc . . .

Added a little bit more color . . . just for the effect of it . . .and to break off from the overall color of the roof . . .

[Dr. Cranky]

I guess with a vehicle like this, the more parts that are gone or broken, the more attitude, I guess . . . the next level would be to simply set it on fire and bring it down to ashes broken metal . . . maybe the next one . . .

[Kanedge]

Very cool, I am in awe of your techniques. Can I copy this if I ever get the courage to do something like this?

Also, what is the idea of the hairspray, and do you do this before or after your salt? And does this mean your not brushing the salt off this one?

[Dr. Cranky]

I guess the application of washes and some pigments will help accent some other areas . . . but for now, this one is resting until I finish the chassis and the interior . . . and I still have the engine and the rear tires and wheels . . . the fun shall continue . . .

[Dr. Cranky]

Kane, no problem, copy away . . . these kinds of builds are addictive and fun, which is why Doctor Cranky gets CRANKED!

To answer your question. The salting technique went on first, then hairspray. The hairspray is really an insurance policy in case you want to add more rust . . . both techniques work well together. In this case, I only removed a bit more paint from the roof, which I did with a stiff brush and some warm water.

Before I continue with the weathering, I will seal in the whole paintjob with Future Clear so that I can move on to the washes (I am using acrylic washes, but I will often use oil base washes too), and then when I am done with that I will clear with matte finish . . .

[parki]

Wow, I'm liking this build Dr Cranky. Gonna be awesome as always.

[oldscool]

Well keep cranking away on it. Looks killer.

grumpy gus

[Dr. Cranky]

Thanks, everyone. The chassis and interior are painted but I am giving everything a rest over night. As soon as I can I will start working on the details . . . stay tuned in . . .

[Dr. Cranky]

Here's a bit of clarification on all these techniques.

Okay, so the idea is that FIRST you have to decide how rusty and gunky and gone do you want your vehicle. If you want to build a daily driver, then you know you have to NOT over do it. Now, for this build, Cranky went all out because Cranky LOVES, LOVES, LOVES rust and far-gone vehicles, but you already knew that.

Okay, so once you figure out how much rust your vehicle is going to have (it helps to have reference sources, pictures or look around in a junk yard, etc) then you prepare accordingly.

One little dent goes a long ways, two rust throughs go a long ways, etc . . .

So here are the basic approaches, or tricks in your bag.

#1) You can decide to paint your model, and then use the sponge technique to add rust spots sparingly with black and brown paint.

#2) You can chip and map the paint by using the TABLE & ROCK SALT Method. You can also sprinkle a bit of baking powder in a little bit of super glue strategically placed on the rust spot on your model and this will add texture (old technique, sure) but it still works. Or you can use pigment powders to do the same and affix them with a little thinned out matte medium or flow matte medium.

#3) You can buy insurance on whatever rust you want to add by simply airbrushing a few coats of hairspray on the body (over the rust coat) and then using a stiff brush and warm water you can chip away at the paint.

Ryan Silva has a great method of using the sponge technique and the alcohol to manipulate the paint even further.

You can practice each of these individually and then you can begin to combine them always experimenting to achieve a higher level of realism in your work.

After all, this is exactly what military modelers have been doing for years now, getting great results. I just want to make sure everyone understands that these techniques are also available to us model car builders . . .

[shatteredsoul76]

Absolutely stunning, keep on Crankin' Dr.Cranky!

[Tony T]

Man, Doc, you are doing great on this one!! The target looks great, just like someone stood there and rattle canned it! Keep it going...it looks terrible...just like it should!!

[Dr. Cranky]

LOL, I like that! Nothing like an abandoned car to provide loads of fun with a rifle, some beer, and rattle cans!

[Guest]

That looks sooo bad in a good way! I'm still a little apprehensive about trying to weather a model,but at the same time,I want to do it so bad! Do you have any tutorials that I could check out Virgil? I would really appreciate it.

[Dr. Cranky]

Roger, thanks, buddy. Oh man tutorials, tutorials. There's got to be a whole bunch in this forum. Look around. I know that I've done a couple for the mag, but there are many more here . . . so look around.

[Terror]

Nice as always Dr. Here in N.Y. there are cars all over the woodlands here.If you hunt at all in upstate N.Y. you will stumble onto one that looks very close to this one.Rust never sleeps specially up north.Sucks when you have to drive one tho,my 1:1 84 ranger looks like Cranky made it for me.LOL I drip red paint on my 1:1 truck rust holes to look like its been shot.LOL Keep'em comein Cranky... I love it.Also thanks for the jpeg format.

[Bastardo]

This is breathtaking... Great progress!