Rade8boy Posted May 7, 2011 Posted May 7, 2011 I won this kit on ebay and figured I start with the wire wheels since there are 6 of them to make and you have to wind your own! I been working on them for 2 days and still do not have one built, the instructions are not clear to me on how to use the jig to wind the wire corectly. Has anyone built this kit or can offer tips on how wind hte wheels correctly with the jig? I tried Google searches and came up blank so far. Thanks Jerry
sjordan2 Posted May 7, 2011 Posted May 7, 2011 I, too, am somewhat stymied trying to figure out how to weave the wires with the jig. But they sure look great when done. Here's a gallery of a build by Martin Swire who,unfortunately, passed away about a year ago. (Scroll down to the bottom and click for further pictures. http://martsmodels.webs.com/1928mercedesss.htm I have a very large amount of digital reference that I've gathered for this car. If you would like information, please PM me for your needs. There is also a pretty good gallery of a 1:1 car at Boris Schlegelmilch's photo site. Register free there for complete access. Click on the pull-down menu to select the make and model to view the gallery. http://www.schlegelmilch.com/
iBorg Posted May 7, 2011 Posted May 7, 2011 I'd look at the following sites: http://www.freewebs.com/martsmodels/morganwheelconversion.htm and http://www.opentrackaction.com/acmeforum/showthread.php?t=1308 While these aren't specific to this kit, they might help. Mike
sjordan2 Posted May 7, 2011 Posted May 7, 2011 (edited) If the instructions can be figured out, this should be the easiest method yet. The kit comes with pre-notched rim halves, through which you run a continuous wire using a supplied jig. I found a Korean build journal of the whole kit, but the images of assembling the wheels don't tell the story. This kit was boxed by Entex, Revell, Minicraft and Academy (and I think Hasegawa), and it's interesting to note that the Academy/Minicraft version has chrome rims while the same Revell sprue is molded in gray. Edited May 7, 2011 by sjordan2
sjordan2 Posted May 7, 2011 Posted May 7, 2011 Just a couple of random notes on this kit. I have never seen a build of this kit where the (usually black) molding on the side of the hood matched up with its partner at the cowling on the main body shell. This looks to require a certain amount of test fitting and sanding. Some builds I have seen try to add putty to mate the running board assembly to the fenders. That is not accurate. The running board was optional equipment that was separate from the fenders, and it should have visible separation. The kit can be greatly enhanced by using the 1/16 Revell Phantom II Continental as a donor kit, mostly bashing the chrome pieces: • Hood latches • Lifting handles for the hood • Trunk side latches • Convertible top chrome strip for the upper back of the top
Rade8boy Posted May 7, 2011 Author Posted May 7, 2011 (edited) Skip, thanks for the link to the built up model, it is an exceptional model, and those wire wheel will look great if I can get them built! I will continue to try and figuure out how to wind the wheel, and if I hit upon a solution I will be sure to share it. I gave up for the weekend, no sense bing cranky for Mothers Day So I glued the engine block together as a small victory. JR Edited May 7, 2011 by Rade8boy
sjordan2 Posted May 7, 2011 Posted May 7, 2011 Skip, thanks for the link to the built up model, it is an exceptional model, and those wire wheel will look great if I can get them built! I will continue to try and figuure out how to wind the wheel, and if I hit upon a solution I will be sure to share it. I gave up for the weekend, no sense bing cranky for Mothers Day So I glued the engine block together as a small victory. JR Hey, Jerry let me know if you figure it out. I'll either pay you to do mine or send you a free kit.
sjordan2 Posted May 7, 2011 Posted May 7, 2011 (edited) PS: One of the signature elements of the SS/SSK, 500K and 540K is the use of wheel weight cylinders which contain a number of washer-like weights inside. These wheels will look killer if you add them; you can use bits of sprue for them. Typically, there are seven evenly spaced weight cylinders around the rim, with a valve stem between two of them. Also note something that others overlook: the brake drums seen behind the spokes are clad in copper (usually reasonably shiny) to reduce heat. The picture below doesn't show that to its best advantage. Edited May 7, 2011 by sjordan2
Rade8boy Posted May 14, 2011 Author Posted May 14, 2011 I won another Entex kit, the Rolls Royce Ballon car and it too has wire wheels that you have to make, these instructions look a bit clearer to me, so I will give it another try today. I will post the results... Jerry
ZIL 111V Posted May 14, 2011 Posted May 14, 2011 Gakken '28 MB, wire wheel assembly is pretty confusing at first..took me about 7 or 8 attempts to get it right! when you get the correct "rule"....try to finish all the 5 next ones... ASAP! Hard work but worth it... the look of those wire wheels is just great. Bandai's RR Ballon, wire wheels assemblies are better explained....+++ sewing tread:(cord) is easier to work with (flexibility) then metal wire tread.
sjordan2 Posted May 15, 2011 Posted May 15, 2011 (edited) Those Rolls instructions certainly look easier to follow. As for using sewing thread, what kind would you use? Wouldn't regular thread get a bit frayed and fuzzy? In my case, I intend to paint the wheels and wires, so the wire would probably work best for me. Edited May 15, 2011 by sjordan2
Rade8boy Posted May 17, 2011 Author Posted May 17, 2011 Well, after 1 week and 20+ trys I got one wheel made, some of the wires are little croked, but I get 5 more trys! The front The back In using the jig, I found it better to not use the little button they give to act a stop, it hinered the roatation. But as long as you follow keep the wire along the contour of the jig and skip every other slot on the first pass, it should work, you fill in the empty slots on the second pass around. And the REAL key is to keep the wire kink free and as tight as possible, that will give you the straight spokes. JR
Jim Gibbons Posted May 31, 2011 Posted May 31, 2011 I missed this when it was first posted, and have to follow your build. I'd love to build this kit, but I have two 1/16 '37 Packards and a 1/12 Cord to finish first. I did recently win a 1/32 Mercedes SSK that I've started. I love these '20s and '30s vintage Mercedes cars!
Rade8boy Posted June 26, 2011 Author Posted June 26, 2011 Ok, all 6 wheels are done and I chose to paint them Alclad Chrome, onto the chassis! I picked up another one of these kits ata flwea market, everything was still sealed in bags but it was missing the fenders and body, if anyone has old unwanted built kit or knows of a cheap parts car please let me know! Thanks Jerry
sjordan2 Posted June 26, 2011 Posted June 26, 2011 Ok, all 6 wheels are done and I chose to paint them Alclad Chrome, onto the chassis! I picked up another one of these kits ata flwea market, everything was still sealed in bags but it was missing the fenders and body, if anyone has old unwanted built kit or knows of a cheap parts car please let me know! Thanks Jerry I would just like to take moment to mention, as I have on other threads on this kit, that there is a storage compartment on the forward part of both separate running board assemblies that can be seen on the Entex box art. I've never seen anyone add this detail.
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