Help needed with Crazy Modeler PE Parts

[Merkur XR4Ti]

I just got a sheet of Crazy Modeler metal parts for the Ferrari 612 I'm currently working on. I'm having a heckuva time trying to get the parts off the sticky clear plastic sheet that they are attached to. I got one of the small pracing horses off to use on the engine, but I cannot get the 612 logos off the sheet without ruining them.

Anyone struggle with this problem? Any ideas?

[Zoom Zoom]

How are you applying them? You have to lay the clear film w/the PE part over the area to be applied, then use some sort of burnishing tool to press the part into place, then gently peel back the clear. You can use the rounded end of a paintbrush handle or a ballpoint pen. I have an old burnishing tool for dry transfer lettering that I use.

When you begin to peel the clear, you'll see if the part actually stuck. If not, press the backing onto the surface again and reburnish. A little practice goes a long way, these transfers work well once you get the hang of it; first time results are usually disappointing. Good thing that Crazy Modeler gives you extras, unlike kit makers that give you one set and only one chance to get them right.

[Merkur XR4Ti]

Geez I am an idiot.

I did not know that is how they are to be applied, since the backs of the metal pieces don't seem to be all that sticky.

Thanks for the help, Bob, I'll try that method.

[Zoom Zoom]

The backs of the emblems aren't terribly sticky; that's a common complaint. Sometimes it seems like the adhesive on the clear backing sheet is stronger. Seems the Danbury Mint is using similar transfer emblems on their models, some of the collectors are going nuts because when they clean their models the emblems may come off. You might want to seal the emblems once applied w/some clear paint or Future. I wish they had a bit more stick, but they are the most authentic looking chrome emblems by a long shot. The diecast guys want their tampo printed emblems or decals back :roll:

[Guest zebm1]

Just a musing Bob....I'm wondering if a thin coat of that rubber cement that comes with an inner tube patch kit might not help with sticking those PE parts down a bit better. :wink:

zeb

[Zoom Zoom]

Just a musing Bob....I'm wondering if a thin coat of that rubber cement that comes with an inner tube patch kit might not help with sticking those PE parts down a bit better. :wink:

zeb

If one has microscopes for eyes and tools fit for the hands of a mouse, it might work. The emblems are tiny and I know for certain I'd make a terrible mess if I used anything as thick and unwieldy as rubber cement for them :wink:

[Guest zebm1]

I take it yu haven't repaired an inner tube in awhile Bob...it's a clear glue and spreadable to very thin layers. :wink:

zeb

[Merkur XR4Ti]

Bob, your advice worked like a charm. Got the emblem on the dash and got it to stick there as well. Thanks!

[Zoom Zoom]

I take it yu haven't repaired an inner tube in awhile Bob...it's a clear glue and spreadable to very thin layers. :wink:

zeb

Actually I have used clear vinyl repair glue very recently. My comments still apply, at least for me. One would need athroscopic surgical skills to apply any kind of glue to those emblems without making a mess. To me it would be like using a paint roller to repair a rock chip on my car. I've used many of these kinds of transfers (they're in many of the Tamiya models that I've built), believe me, if there was an easier way I'd let everyone know in this thread. I would expect over time that input from consumers getting through to the manufacturer might yield a better underlying adhesive used for these emblems. They're already improved over what was out there 10-12 years ago.

[Zoom Zoom]

Bob, your advice worked like a charm. Got the emblem on the dash and got it to stick there as well. Thanks!

Great! Glad I was able to help.

[jbwelda]

im with bob: the miracle substance future floor wax works like a champ in situations like this.