sportandmiah Posted June 23, 2011 Share Posted June 23, 2011 On Donn Yost's video he sprays enamel thinned with lacquer thinner recoats within 30 seconds of each other, and with great results I might add. Does this work with thinned acrylic paints or thinned lacquer paints? Are recoats using these able to be sprayed just as fast without waiting 15-20 minutes between? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lownslow Posted June 23, 2011 Share Posted June 23, 2011 On Donn Yost's video he sprays enamel thinned with lacquer thinner recoats within 30 seconds of each other, and with great results I might add. Does this work with thinned acrylic paints or thinned lacquer paints? Are recoats using these able to be sprayed just as fast without waiting 15-20 minutes between? laquers yea im not sure about acrylics Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sportandmiah Posted June 23, 2011 Author Share Posted June 23, 2011 Forgot to add I'm using a double action airbrush. Would lacquers need 30+ psi as Donn did? I've had to strip 2 models lately and I want these paint jobs to hopefully get smoother. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LoneWolf15 Posted June 24, 2011 Share Posted June 24, 2011 I have a question .... If you watched the DVD , saw the results that can be achieved using the enamels , then why not use the enamels and end up with the same type of finish ? Seeing is believing , and it obviously works , why try to fix what isn't broke ? To answer your question .... All three require a different approach when being airbrushed . Laquer is the closest to the enamels as laid out in the DVD , application wise , the acrylics are not even in the same ballpark . Try it with the enamels first , following the steps laid out in the DVD . I think that you will be very pleased with the results . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sportandmiah Posted June 24, 2011 Author Share Posted June 24, 2011 Good point Donn. My only dillema being the higher cost of hobby paints as opposed to decanting duplicolor, etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LoneWolf15 Posted June 24, 2011 Share Posted June 24, 2011 By purchasing your paint from Model Empire , Hobby Linc , etc , you can save a small fortune when compared to the local shops prices . This will be cheaper than the cost of the Duplicolor cans , just a suggestion , you might want to consider . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sportandmiah Posted August 20, 2011 Author Share Posted August 20, 2011 Revisiting this topic, in a perfect world I would be able to locate every Testors enamel color and make at my local hobby shop. But that doesn't happen. But i will find the color I'm looking for in Tamiya, or Duplicolor etc, but now how do I proceed painting with similar results? The video is great, but only works for 1 type of paint not easily accessible to the masses. I would love to see a video using different paints.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Kucaba Posted August 20, 2011 Share Posted August 20, 2011 I have found over the years that the type of lacquer thinner has a huge affect on how the paint lays down,and how fast you can apply it between coats. Try going to a local auto paint supply store and get a quart of some fast,moderate, and slow evaporate lacquer thinners and test these. Also get some spoons for testing,stop testing on car bodies. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeMc Posted August 20, 2011 Share Posted August 20, 2011 I love Donn and his results...they speak for themselves. But unlike Donn I know there are other paints that will work just as well. The trick is simple...its called time and practice. Each medium has its own quirks and respray windows. I note Donn waits to clear his jobs...With Tamiya lacquers there is a window 15 min per coat "flash time"...shoot your clear in this same window or wait 30 days to clear. All paints have correct viscosity, mix ratios , and how they like to be shot. I suggest once comfy with Donn's way, get some other books...Bob Downies come to mind..and learn the other mediums. I am experimenting with Donn's enamels (YES REALLY!!) and Auto Air water based...and they all shoot differently! Check with the paint mfgrs for their msds and data sheets...I have HOKs and they are the bible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr. Cranky Posted August 20, 2011 Share Posted August 20, 2011 House of Kolor needs at least 45psi, or you can over reduce and maybe get by with 35psi. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr. Cranky Posted August 20, 2011 Share Posted August 20, 2011 Oh, and Auto Air Colors can take as much as 60psi! The trick is to fiddle with the paint mixture and the air pressure and use test pans (a scrap body or plastic spoons) to test your set up . . . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sportandmiah Posted August 20, 2011 Author Share Posted August 20, 2011 All great points fellas. And although I do love to practice with my airbrush and see the different results, I do not like wasting paint/money. I can say with 100% certainty that I know how to spray enamels now thanks to Don's proven method. I'm just uncertain as to acrylics. Is there anyone here that only uses 1 type of acrylic paint, much like Donn only uses enamel? Regards, Doug Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeMc Posted August 20, 2011 Share Posted August 20, 2011 All great points fellas. And although I do love to practice with my airbrush and see the different results, I do not like wasting paint/money. I can say with 100% certainty that I know how to spray enamels now thanks to Don's proven method. I'm just uncertain as to acrylics. Is there anyone here that only uses 1 type of acrylic paint, much like Donn only uses enamel? Regards, Doug I have shot lots of tamiya acrylics (small jar ) and they work well, do not dry as hard, lot more fiddly with coats, thinner is VERY CRITICAL use tamiyas own. you can clear with future or tamiya clear...I use lacquer clear when color is dry I wanted to shoot custom colors..HOK . My technique is about the same as Donns..less paint and pressure. All airbrushing is practice and consistancy...EXACTLY what Donn does...KISS ? I prefer KITS....Keep It The Same..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr. Cranky Posted August 20, 2011 Share Posted August 20, 2011 In the last year I have used Vallejo Acrylics almost exclusively with great results. Then again, I tend to built junkers, beaters, daily drivers often a bit far gone . . . and I tend to follow military builder's protocol, which is put down the base coat, then apply a coat of Future Clear to seal in everything, then the weathering process can begin using a combination of enamel and acrylic products for filters, washes, and pigments . . . . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
my66s55 Posted August 20, 2011 Share Posted August 20, 2011 Go to the topic "Question for the Florida guys" and see my last post. I got the ideas for what paint to use from an article in SAE. Don't remember who wrote it but I think it was Bob Downey. I use almost all acrylic paints with great success. Donn's dvd help me out unbelievably. As the maniac guy, you know you have got to be a little crazy to live down by the Everglades says, keep it simple . It took me quite some time to learn how to get the results I wanted from acrylic. Just apply the principles from Donn's disk and you will be successful. But, as Donn mentioned, acrylics are a bit different. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LoneWolf15 Posted August 20, 2011 Share Posted August 20, 2011 When I first set out to do the DVDs , I knew it would have to be simple and straightforward , hence, the enamels . A product that is easy to use , readily available , and produces great results . Had I attempted to integrate all of the paints out there into the DVD , the length would have been far too long , and the cost would have been astronomical . As it was , the cost to produce the DVDs was $ 20,000 all told . I have a hard enough time selling them at $ 20 , let alone jacking the price any higher to compensate for yet another disc ! The entire premise was to establish a firm foundation for anyone using an airbrush , whether it be for the first time or the 10,000 ! It works , plain and simple , and that is what I set out to do in the first place ! The entire set of steps leading up to the application of the paint can be used by any modeler , regardless of their choice of paint medium . Contrary to the popular misconception ...... I used laquers and acrylics for decades when playing in Trainland . The fact that I use enamels exclusively for painting my model cars is a personal choice . My way of doing it produces the exact results that I am seeking each and every time . Can I achieve the same results with laquer ? Of coarse I can , I simply prefer the ease of the enamels . As for experimentation , my hat goes off to The Maniac ! Thanks to your suggestion about the Pearl X additives , I am having a blast coming up with new color combinations and effects . What a way to make paintwork dance and shimmer ! Thanks , Buddy ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeMc Posted August 20, 2011 Share Posted August 20, 2011 Thanks Donn...I learned about those pearls here, so I can't take credit. I shoot them in the clear, is that how you are? or right in the color?? I would love to see some of YOUR results! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr. Cranky Posted August 20, 2011 Share Posted August 20, 2011 The other paint line (acrylics) that's very interesting is Jacquard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
my66s55 Posted August 20, 2011 Share Posted August 20, 2011 (edited) Donn, if you noticed, I gave full credit to your dvd for teaching the basics of successful airbrushing no matter what the paint. I owe a great deal of gratitude to you for showing the basics of a good, no great paint job thu an airbrush. I thank you. Edited August 20, 2011 by my66s55 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LoneWolf15 Posted August 21, 2011 Share Posted August 21, 2011 Doug , No need for thanks , the simple fact that you learned from the DVD is more than enough for me ! Your acknowledgement of it is greatly appreciated . Mike , I have been mixing the Pearl X in the clear , alternating color mixes with plain clear coats in between . Taking a base color , I've been laying 2 to 3 corresponding colors overtop . To say that I'm pleased with the results would be a complete understatement ! Unfortunately , some of the subtle colors do not translate well in photographs ! Virgil , If the paints are as good as the additives , they must be some kind of product . Last time Kathie and I were in Michaels , she pointed out several metallic glitter kits Jaquards offers . I realize the flake might be a bit too big overall . However with a bit of sifting , I think the finer micron flakes would fit the bill perfectly . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
my66s55 Posted August 21, 2011 Share Posted August 21, 2011 Thanks again Donn. Your post is appreciated and it is important that everyone see the benefit that is gained by the purchase and proper implementation of the information on the cd. With proper understanding, they will benefit greatly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Art Laski Posted August 21, 2011 Share Posted August 21, 2011 To add to this thread, I too started with Donn's DVD, also with great results. My only regret is that I didn't get the Paasche airbrush sooner. His process also laid the foundation for trying other things and having a baseline for judging the results and what works. Just today, my son and I tried some urethane clear over the enamel, which also worked great. Donn's willingness to answer questions was also much appreciated! -Art Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeMc Posted August 21, 2011 Share Posted August 21, 2011 . Mike , I have been mixing the Pearl X in the clear , alternating color mixes with plain clear coats in between . Taking a base color , I've been laying 2 to 3 corresponding colors overtop . To say that I'm pleased with the results would be a complete understatement ! Unfortunately , some of the subtle colors do not translate well in photographs ! . Thats exactly what I've found...very subtile...then WHAM...it's there and you couldn't figgure why. I have mixed these with premixed pearls..I do not really see much difference...In the clear they pop after a couple of cover coats. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LoneWolf15 Posted August 21, 2011 Share Posted August 21, 2011 Mike , Mixing several of the darker colors over a light base or into it will bring them out . Light colors over a darker base without a coat of clear in between will give you an entirely different color. I like the results of the clear / color clear alternate coats best . I enjoy the reaction of someone walking past and doing a doubletake as the light changes and the color flips as they're looking at it on the tables . They are definitely a wow factor ! Art and Doug , Thank you for the kind words . It's a shame that others haven't picked up on it , or refuse to see it for what it is . It's a great educational tool . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sportandmiah Posted August 21, 2011 Author Share Posted August 21, 2011 I picked up a Paasche H airbrush yesterday from Michaels ($89.99 - 40% off = $56.00) and tried it out today. I'm working on a 1/32 Salt racer and used Rustoleum Gloss Enamel Orange. I decanted it, thinned with cheap lacquer thinner from Home Depot, and sprayed. It turned out unbelievable! I used the #5 needle and tip, just like Donn, and after I emptied the bottle it was glossy smooth. It's a little tackier, and might take a little longer to dry, but the method works great. But in regards to why I started this thread, I want to use acrylics because I will paint in the basement in the winter (separate enclosed room, exhaust fan and paint booth), and I don't feel comfortable spraying enamel in the house. But I will experiment with different acrylics and post my result here to help others if need. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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