my66s55

I get burned out from working on the same file and change to a different one. The Olds J2 engine is progressing well, but I switched to the 55 Plymouth Belvedere convertible that I posted a few pages back. I have redone the side from the start of the front door to the tail light as it was curved too much. The rear end from the tulip panel on back has been totally redone. Again, because of too much curve in the wrong place. The side chrome was redone as it was incorrect. The tail light chrome has been redone. The tail light lens needs redoing. I also need to fix the lower bottom of the rear fender and put the chrome on the back. The car on the top was the one I started with. The one on the bottom is the one I' working on. The area with all the lines and faces is what I have changed. I have a promo 4dr of this car. It helps a lot.

Is this something like what you are looking for.

Dan's working on this for me. 1936 Buick Century coupe. Buick used the smaller Century and put the larger engine in it. Buick used a straight 8 over head valve engine. The car was very fast. www.macsmotorcitygarage.com/buicks-factory-hot-rod-the-1936-century/

The first generation Olds engine is by far the the hardest one to create a 3d file for. The heads took awhile to get right. The tri power intake manifold was a real project. Compared to the Pontiac tri power manifold, the Pontiac is much easier. Here's the J2 engine so far.

I have some Rochester G2 2 bbl carbs that go on the Olds 57-58 J2 engine I'm creating. Their not quite done yet, but will be by the end of March.

These pens worked great for me. I can't do Bare Metal Foil.

You asked about 3d printing them. I draw the emblems up in Blender and if needed, i can print them out individually. The custom Royal name and tail fin emblem on my 57 Dodge and the three emblems on my 69 Buick Grand Sport were all done by me.

I started working on the Olds J2 engine intake tri power intake manifold and decided to do the Rochester 2g carbs first. Did my usual reference search and came up with good pics of the one used on the 57-58 J2. These aren't finished yet, but they'll do for what I need right now. I'll start working on the manifold tomorrow. These carbs were used on the Chevy, Pontiac and Olds in the later 50"s.

65 yes. 64 no.

The Olds 57-58 J2 head and valve cover are done. Here's pics alone with a couple of the many reference pic's I use to create them. These were very time consuming to do.

Just a small update. I'm working on a couple of engines currently. One is the Buick nail head and the other is the 1st generation Olds. I did some more work on the side of the Buick. It's a bit tricky getting the sides right. The Olds are a different story entirely. The 303 and 324 have one configuration on their sides and front, the 57-58-371 have a different configuration on their sides, the 60-61 371 have another side configuration and there is another 371 side configuration that I haven't figured out yet. The 394 has it's side and front configurations. Here's what I have so far. The timing chain covers are the basics and not complete. the Buick the 57-58 Olds 371

My latest 3d projects have been on a 69 Buick Skylark 3d printable file Andrey had for $10 on CG Trader. It'a really nice file. Included are an interior, chassis and suspension. The dash and front seats are decent but the side panels and rear seat need help. The rest is total Micky Mouse for what I want. I put the Grand Sport 400 emblems on it and will put a nail head 401 with a TH 400 automatic with it. I printed it out and it came out perfect. Unfortunately, I tripped over something 16 days ago, fell and shattered the ball in my right hip joint. I can't take a picture of the body so a made screen shots of it. I.m just now getting back to normal. The start of the engine is also below. And I started the frame h

My experience with Andrey files is quite different. I stopped using Windows in 2010 and never looked back. Windows requires a lot of memory. Linux doesn't. I can do everything I need with 16 gig of memory and never have a problem. With Andrey's files, I have to open each one in Chitu and create a stl file. Otherwise Blender will not open them. I just moved a file to another folder and Chitu opened it perfectly. I don't know if this process will correct your problem or not.

I've been busy working on various different car files. I'm currently working on the 58 Plymouth file Mr. Excessive found. I've got the body ready for a test print. The windshield top needs some work, but I print the windshield frames separate. The original file had errors starting with the windshield cowling being way too curved. I replaced that with the one from my 57 Dodge. The curve on the back on the hood has also been corrected. Here's a pic of the original and my correction. The drawing pic shows it correctly. This is the Belvedere convertible. I haven't touched the interior yet. The floor and rolling chassis from my 57 Dodge have been modified to fit the Plymouth. I'll put mt duel quad poly 318 and torqueflite trans in it as shown.

Go to the Chitubox Facebook page and ask them.

Read through this https://3dprinterly.com/8-ways-how-to-fix-resin-3d-printer-layer-shifts/ Make note of lift speed and orientation. Watch the video on lift speed and note that anglre of orientation should be between 10 and 45 degrees. Anything greater than 45 is more harmful. I eliminated this problem by printing flat at zero angle. You can't do this as you build area isn't large enough.

I've been busy printing parts and painting. The red coupe is a 49 Plymouth Executive. It was on sale $10 from Cgtrader. I also picked up a 53 Studebaker for $10.00. Both are 3d printable and will be curb sides. The 57 Dodge is painted black and has been clear coated. The Delehaye has been painted dark blue for the fenders and I am masking off to put the light blue on the body and interior.

I've used bleach.

The 57 Dodge is being painted. The fenders and side stripe have been painted on the Deleheye 135. The 58 Plymouth is in process and the body has been successfully printed. The 35 LaSallle is being modified into the 3 window coupe. The coupe is what I originally wanted , but had trouble with getting the back of the top right. That's been fixed. Now it's getting it nlended with the rest of the file. What I'm showing today is how I get rid of most, if not all of those lines people point out. 3D printing is an additive process. A series of layers. When an object has a curve, those layers create a step like configuration. The higher the layer height is the larger the step and he greater the of line shows. A way to reduce these line size is to copy objects at an 30 degree angle. This produces a smoother finish on the object. It also creates longer print times and more resin use. Printing at at 50 um, 1/2 the thickness of a sheet of copy paper, produces the fastest times, but worse lines. Printing at 30 um will reduce the effects of the lines some. It also creates a longer print time ranging into the 20 hr time period. 20 um is the ultimate print size, but creates even more print time. I have found that I can print car bodies flat on my Phrozen Mighty 8k printer. Thus, I can print at 30 um an get excellent results. I printed the 57 Dodge this way in 10.5 hrs and had unbelievable results. No visible layer lines. This is 50 um. This is 20 um. This wire wheel was printed at 50 um. It will be much better at 30 um.

I put that person on ignore and they all disappeared.

Here's the final file for the 65 Grand sport. I've separated the parts i'll use and get them ready for print. The first 3 pics are progress shots from Dan. The remaining are the actual file.

I've started printing the final pieces to the 57 Dodge. Next come paint and assembly. First, the body with the floor installed. Next. the frame. Last, some parts. The front seat, the 325 hemi with trans, the dash, the front bumpers, the heater box, the brake fluid container, the horns, the battery, the interior side panels and the hubcaps

As usual, this tread has been taken off topic. It's about printing much faster. ACF film has a 93-94% transparency. That's quite a bit better than nfep film. It's not for everyone. It shows the printed file and it's flaws more accuracy. If that bothers people, than they shouldn't use it. There are many people that have been and are using it that like it. You never hear positive, only negative.

I got my ACF film directly from Phrozen. I have used Siraya fast and Phrozen TR300 resin. You need a very thin resin to print fast. The film needs to be very tight.

I stumbled on a file that's high on my list of to do projects. I started into 3d printing and file creation in 2013. I can't scratch build. I wanted a model of a 35 LaSalle in the worst way. Coupe or convertible. I started with that and will make it a reality in the coming months. Next was the 37 Delehaye 135 F & F roadster. That will become a reality in the same time period. The third was a 37 Talbot Lago T150 C ss 150 Teardrop coupe by F & F. The file I found is the 38 version by Talbot Logo. I will do the conversions to make it an F & F version for 37. The file is one of the best I've seen. There is a complete detailed interior, engine bay and engine. It's followed by Dan's fix for the 65 Buick Grand sport. The next posts will be of prints ans builds for my current projects including the 57 Dodge.