my66s55

I decided to try the chrome nail powder. It works exactly as shown in the video that was on here a short while back. It does take practice to get it right. Here's a front bumper for my 59 Plymouth that I did. It's so shiny that my cell phone camera can't get past the glare. I've rubbed my fingers all over it and done everything to see if it held it's quality. Nothing phased it. It'still like it was when I applied it.

Good points Bill. Caddy 331 engine with intake manifold and oil pan.

Very nicely done. Your prints look clean and have good, sharp detail.

Things are progressing nicely. I'currently working on the intake manifold for the 53 Eldorado. The 35 LaSalle is coming along nicely and should be done sometime this month. I did print out the body of the 58 Ford Sunliner convertible. The length fits perfect with the AMT 57 Fairlane 500 body. This leads me ti believe That I could make a trans kit for it. I'm going to show you what it looks like as well as a Cults printable body which is one of the reasons you need to be careful about Cults files. Here is the Hum3D file printed out. Note how it prints in fine detail. And then the Cults file which is a poor rendition of a printable file. Some pics are comparisons to my printed car. I purchased the new Phrozen 8k printer which I should have in late August. To give you an example' the xy um for the 4k printer I currently use is 50. the xy um for the new 8k printer is 28 um. That's almost a 50 % improvement. Take a look at these prints off a new Phrozen 8k I just purchased. Simply amazing. No more lines in the print.

I printed 10 because sometimes a few don't come out right. Surprisingly, 9 came out decent. I see your in Canada. That means more for shipping. Let me check on the cost.

I have a 49 Ford with that Caddy engine. Itook your measurements and tweaked it to fit it. Here's the results.

I have never had to replace the LED on any of my 4 Phrozen printers. The biggest reason for needing to replace one is user error.

Ok, so I have a usable print for you. The question for you now becomes, what engine are you wanting to use theses for. They are currently scaled to my 331 build. I may have the engine you're using in my stash. otherwise, I'll need the length and width of the block where it connects.

Phrozen has just announced it's pre-sale for it's Mighty 8k printer. I just purchased a $200 discount for $50.00 that allows me to purchase the machine this Thursday + a vat, screen protector, fep sheet, + 2 1k bottles of 8k resin and gift for an additional $649.00 + free by ocean shipping. That's $699.00 out of pocket for a 10" lcd 8k screen with 28 um xy. That's better than a 4k 6" lcd. This means that you would only need 1 printer to print anything you need instead of 2. The big plus is that it's a Phrozen machine. As an example, I purchased the Phrozen Shuffle XL in September 2018. It's been It is a real workhorse. 2 yrs ago, I upgraded to 4k. The 8.9" lcd has printed all the bodies I asked it to, completely without flaws. It's xy is 50 um. Check out this machine at https://phrozen3d.com/. Visit any Phrozen Facebook page. You now have the ability to purchase 1 3d printer to do everything you need.

One of the Members here requested a set of Cadillac valve covers. Since I'm creating a 53 Eldorodo, I drew up a set to hopefully accommodate him. I've worked on the water pump sporadically and this is engines present condition. My present focus has been on the building of the 35 LaSalle. I'm making great progress and will post pic;s soon.

I' test printing . I will keep you informed.

This is for my 53 Cadillac Eldorado 331 engine.

Non of the above. If you want the best printer available at this size, it's this one. https://www.amazon.com/Phrozen-Sonic-Mighty-BUNDLE-Photopolymer/dp/B09824Y63L. All the others are cheap knock offs that cut features that effect the final result. Phrozen leads the market in this price range of 3d printers. The others are copy cats that cut features so they can lower the price while increasing their profit.

Will do. Will do.

That would be the first thing I would check,Jim. Good idea, but the printer ha has only has a z height of 130 mm. The file itself is, as is usually the case, has a lot of non quad faces. This makes it impossible to get a straight line for splitting. An ad on called Quad remesher does this. It only works on 5-6 cad softwares. This will create what's needed to do what Bill wants. And yea, it should be printed on an angle anyways. Flat would cause a lot of problems on the bottom of the body pane;s.

Bill, Email me the body and I'll do it for you. It may have to be re-meshed and you don't have the add on to do it. Besides that, it'll only take me a couple of minutes.

I have yet to make a tire. There are too many goods ones found with Google. Google 3d tire files.

The slanting of 3d printed parts was created josef Prussa circa 2012 and was for fdm filament printers. It just makes a better print.

Do not tip to 90 degrees. Go to the Official 3d Printing Discussion Thread in General Automotive Talk(Trucks and Cars) and watch the video I posted on slanting parts for best print. Putting the parts flat lead to other problems. I have been using Blender to create and modify files since 2013 and 3d resin printing since December 25, 2015.

If you are trying to use Blender 3.0, forget it. It's famous for crashing. I use 2.91.2. It will do everything needed to create files you want.

Squir Is the vender and also the creater. If you blow up the side view above. you can see the file measurements. The length is right on and the wheel base is about an inch short. I've never see a file that's already in scale. They always were too large. CG Trader has the same file, but for $99 more.

I made my absolutely last 3d file acquisition this past Sunday. This 59 Olds Super 88 is high on my list of favorite cars of the 50's. I've been watching this file for quite awhile and finally decided to get it. I'm familiar with the designers work as I have 1 or 2 others of his others. I can only find 2 flaws in this file. The side chrome strip is that of the 98 as it is too long and goes past the door. The other is the slight change in the surface of the side panel that sweeps down from the front of the door to the back. The other nice things about it is the detail of the interior, the front control arms, spring and rear end. You could print this car as a curb side.

I'm so proud of you Bill. Ever since I built that first resin 3d printer and posted the results on December 26 2014 and Joseph messaged me that he wanted me to print one of his files out and send to him, I've been hopeful that people will take notice and get into the process. Joseph got samples from other people, but went with mine as he surmised that I new what I was doing over the others. This is something that is known only between me and Joseph. No one else needs to know. When in 2017, I purchased a Wanhoe D7, someone took note and got on board. This has been my goal from the beginning. To inform, gently coax members into the world of 3d printing. Ever time I see Someone post a 3d print, I'm happy. If I can pass on my years of knowledge, I'm happy. I don't need recognition, That's not my goal. I just want to see progress.

Bill, that 318 print is from the 3d resin printer I built i late 2015. The one I sent you from my Phrozen Shuffle 2018 is so much better print quality.

Here is my tip for the day. I just learned this myself last month. Do not remove the supports from your print after it's done printing. Instead, clean it up and put it into a container of hot water. It should be about 130-140 degree's F. Cover it if you can and let it sit for about 20 minutes. Remove it and the supports will come of easily. Some will even fall off. Some might not come off easily. Clip them as close to the part as possible. I use a straight edge razor blade to cut it off at the surface or some times you can use something to push the stub off. The result is that you eliminate pits. I didn't believe this at first, but I tried it on my last print and it works. Hot water softens the supports and won't damage the print.