my66s55

Micheal it's possible, but not ideal. The best way to do window is clear plastic. If I take the windshield glass file out of the cad file, I can create a file to 3d print a buck to form it with clear plastic and heat gun. The end results are much more realistic and to scale.

Sounds like an interesting proposition Charlie. Please keep me posted as to the details.

That took care of the curve in the side. Now for the curve in the back. First the rear stone guard straightened. The original bumper. Then the stone guard corrected.

Time to fix this mess. The first thing I work on is the rear quarter panel after I split the body in half. I can't see any reason to try to fix both side of a symmetrical body when you don't have to. The only thing not the same is the gas tank door. I'll cover that fix later if I remember. If not, someone remind me. The the first thing I did was to re-attach the rear door and fill the existing gap between it and rear panel. Next, I converted the curve into a slab side to replicate the real car as best I could. Then I adjusted the panel to fit the width of a 2 dr. Then I added the door and extend it to fit. Notice how I have corrected the line at the top of the panel to fit the convertible.

Now that I know what's wrong with the file, it's time to start fixing it. I'm not a big fan of 4 dr sedans. This will become a convertible. Hum3d files are created like a reaj car with individual parts. These can be highlighted and saved as an stl. file so that they can be worked on separately. You can see this in the first picture of this post. I create an stl. file of the highlighted part and delete the highlighted part on the first file. Then I open a blank file in Blender and load the created stl. file and remove the roof. The back door will be used. The next step is to go to work on all the problems. It's one of the better Hum3d files that I found for free on a different web sight.

So I get the file and take a look. This is what I find. The guy who created the file didn't have a clue what a 50's American car looked like. Here is the comparison of the file and the 3d blue print top view. The windshield and front cowing / hood are a total mess. This will require a large cad drawing fix. Then when the sides are checked, major problem. American cars in this period were slab sided, not curved way under the body. The whole back end need replacing.

First and foremost is the fact that you need to be able to use a CAD software. The first task is to find a usable 3d cad file. I usually search for 3d car files and find websites. 3d printable files are almost non existent. Sometimes I find a really nice free one file. Sometimes there in the $30 to $40 range and then there's the higher priced ones like on Hum3d. As I have mentioned in other posts, Hum 3d can be a BLAH_BLAH_BLAH_BLAH shoot. Such was the case with this 55 Dodge 4dr. Another good thing to have is a 3d blue print of the car.

My intent is to give a very detailed description of what I go through to furnish a finished product.

First up is a 55 Dodge. Your gonna love this one.

Watch and observe. What you learn will be very beneficial to you and others. Don't be hold back on any questions. That goes for anybody following this post.

I have tossed this idea around for quite some time. With the amount of dis-information of current 3d printing, I think it is high time I do this. Over the last few year I have accumulated a number of files of 3d cars I am interested in. Some were free. Some were low priced and some were free. From these 30 files I can create 35 cars from the 30's.50's and 60's. These files include: 36 Chevy 2 DR sedan,36 Buick 2 dr< 37 Bugatti Atlantis with interior, 37 Buick 4 dr, 37 Delehaye 135 F&F roadster, 38 Talbot logo teardrop coupe, 39 Olds convertible coupe, 40 LaSalle convertible coupe, 53 Cadillac Eldorado convertible, 53-54 Mercury convertible, 54 Olds 88, 55 Lincoln Caprie, 55 Mercury, 55 Pontiac, 55 Dodge, 57 Dodge,55 Buick Century 57 Plymouth, 57 DeSoto, 57 Lincoln Caprie convertible, 57 Olds 98, convertible, 57 Buick roadmaster, 57 Dodge. 58 Buick, 58 Ford, 59 Olds 98, 64 Buick Skylark, 65 Dodge Dart, 66 Cuda. I will Take you though the process of what;s needed to complete a model in 3d.

I actually saw one of these turbine cars on the John Lodge expressway in Detroit multiple times during 64-65. They really stood out from the rest of the cars.

UV cured resin

I have been 3d resin printing since December 26, 2014. On that day, I posted that print on this forum titled "3d printed LS engine block." On my desk is a glass jar that contains some 35 LaSalle front suspension parts I printed in early 2015. They look the same as I printed them in early 2015. Nothing I have printed over the years show any deterioration and appear as they did when printed.

Exactly, but the intake manifold could have been made to fit better. It does look like a nice engine.

This is what I use. Follow this tutorial for mixing amounts. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aQmB6yvOJeE. This is my 64 cutlass. Follow this video for an excellent, inexpensive cleaner.

Yes and no. It is a visible layer on a smooth surface. If you were to take a fingernail and scrape over it, you would not feel anything but smoothness. If this was printed with a more transparent resin, you would see lots of layers. The printer prints in layers. Take a look at the trunk deck and fenders which have a much greater slant then the cowling. Do you see layers? Just because you can see a layer doesn't mean the surface isn't smooth. A person would have to be into 3d printing and actually do it and understand it to know how it works.

MSLA desk top 3d printers prints don"t have lines. There is no need for smoothing. These pic's were taken under a bright desk top light and are exactly as they were when taken off the printer.

I did the same thing. $75 cheaper.

I have these 2 airbrushes. The NEO has a pistol grip. The GSI doesn't. The NEO is .3 and the GSI Creos Mr. Airbrush Procon Boy PS-290 0.5mm Pistol Trigger Type is .5.

Yes they are. Chitubox is used on many 3d resin printers. This was a test print of the frame for the 55 Dodge. All of the supports were generated by the software. Usually I will make adjustment to them, but didn't because it was a test.

It was Prusa who came up with printing on a slant way back circa 2013. He discovered that slant printing gives the best detailed print. By printing at 90 degrees, you are subjecting you car to support contacts on its front. You want to avoid that. Slant the car like this. As you can see, the frame is too large. A slanted print will give much better detail. This slant is at 22 degrees. Notice how I leave a small edge at the ends. Then add supports.

David, I've been into the d.i.y 3 printing since mid 2011 and when Prussa came out with the I 3 design that year, I built one and proceeded to teach myself cad drawing with Blender. Prussa was a well recognized contributor in the early days. The I 3 is an open source design and available for anyone to build and use. Sometime during 2011, a Spanish guy built the first d.y.i. dlp resin cured printer. The detail was amazing, but it never caught on. Fdm and msla printers came from the d.y.i. open source community. In 2015 a dlp d.i.y resin printer was designed by Tristen Budel(sp) and posted for all to use and improve on. They became the main printer of use. I built mine in late 2015. In 2016, msla became the printer of focus in the d.y.i community. That became a Wonhoo D7 commercial printer, followed by Phrozen and others.

The file has errors. This is a problem with files found on the net. A must have program to find and possibly fix files like this is Netfabb Basic. It was discontinued a few years ago, but is still available for download here: http://julesgilson.com/index.php/2017/05/08/download-the-old-netfabb-basic-free/. This screen will appear when you open it. Check the box as I did and click on "Later" after the count down. Now that you've gotten the 3d printing bug, you might consider moving to the next level and purchase an msla resin printer. You can read up on the different types of printers here: https://all3dp.com/1/types-of-3d-printers-3d-printing-technology/. I have 4 different msla printers. There all made by Phrozen which is based in Taiwan. Their second to latest release was this one: https://www.phrozen3dp.com/products/phrozen-sonic-mini-4k-61-lcd-3d-printer. They released it for order August 15th and their not done shipping all the orders yet. It should be available be on Amazon as early as December. Their Facebook pages are : Phrozen 3D Printer Group and Phrozen Sonic and Sonic Mini Group. I paid $329 and change for mine and it included 4 day shopping from Taiwan.