my66s55

So now I have a basic horse collar. Now I need a radiator. I need the real thing and not a replacement part.

What? No lines? no need to use filler primer to make it usable? No sanding? Understand people. This is the reality of 3d printing today. It's not going to decay in a few years. It's here and now.

So here's what I worked on today. I have a free file of a 53 Cadillac Eldorado convertible that is one of the best files I have ever found. There is a body and a beautifully detailed interior, but no engine. There for, I'm creating a 1953 Cadillac 331 engine. I'm currently working on the heads.

I have only said "Blender" without any clarification. Blender is an open source program created by people who use it. I'm a Linux user and not a big fan of Windows. Blender has been mentioned on the Shapeways website as a good source for checking your files for 3d print ability. I started learning Blender in 2013 when I built my first 3d printer.

Thank you very much. Any help is graciously appreciated. There isn't enough pics on the internet to fully cover this subject.

Been right here. Are you following my "3d printed" posts? Message me any time. I'm here to help.

It's a simple fix. Load the car into your cad software. Then load your wheel, tire and brake into the software. Position them into the general location of the wheel well and scale them to fit. Things like this you learn with time and experience. Check the width of the tire to make sure it's not too wide. Your doing fine so far.

Of all the cars I have files for, I don't have one for a 55 Plymouth. I did find a raw scan for a 56 4 dr that I'm using that to create some parts for the 55. This is what I did over the last few days. Take the scan. Cut out that area to make the trunk lid. Trace the needed part. Subdivide it, smooth it and you get this. It's only half,but that's all I need. Thus, you can see how I'll create the above Skylark.

I won't be using that 64 Skylark for my project. I have a raw scan I got off Sketchfab.

I found a site with a 56 Dodge that was being built for Trans Am racing. There are pics of the sheet metal for under the hood that gave me great insight on how to create the needed parts. This one worked well to make the horse collar.

Thanks for the heads up.The bottom pic will help me a lot.

So now the body has been corrected. The frame and suspension have been done. I put my 55 Dodge 270 hemi in to help for positioning the next step. Up coming next is under the hood files

Adding a steering knuckle, shock and coil spring makes the front suspension.

I used the service manual to find pics to make the upper and lower control arms. Here are 2 of them. Here's the finished parts.

Frames done. Next comes the front suspension.

I will only use Phrozen printers. It's a Taiwan company run by 3 Taiwanese engineers. The printer in this case is the 2018 XL I upgraded it from a 2k rgb lcd to a 4k mono lcd last June. Mono lcds let more light through and cure the resin faster. This speed the print time up by i/3 rd or more. The 57 DeSoto took 15 hrs at 2k and 11 hrs 4k.

My next creation is the frame. First I find a frame chart for the convertible and take screen shots of the top and side. These I import into a new Blender file. The top goes into the top view and the side into the appropriate side view. Then they are lined up and the drawing begins. I always start with the top view. It's always important to search for reference pic's. In this case, I found a 55 Plymouth frame for sale that had 13 different views. Plymouth, Dodge same basic frame.

crai2773@bellsouth,net.

Let's take a look to see what we've accomplished. Then do a quick test print.

What are you using the 1957 Sierra Gold on exactly Steve? As I remember from my youth, it was used with a particular off white.

The original file was a Coronet. I want to create a Custom Royal Lancer. To do that, I need to make files of the Tail fins, the Custom Royal Lancer name on the front fenders and two chrome strips that go on the rear panel below the trunk lid.Notice the file I used to create the name.

The front clip is next. This first pic is the original. Note the lip around the edge of the part. This lip has to be deleted in order to thicken the part for printing. The middle pic is the part after fixing and eliminating the lip. The third print has the walls thickened and is ready for printing. I have found that 1.7 millilitres is the best thickness for body parts.The reason I use individual parts is that it is the best and easiest way to thicken the car.

After:

Next is the trunk. Before top: and back

Thank you for the kind words Rusty.