my66s55

The service manuals are available and free.

I'm in the final stages of finishing this project. It took 144 separate cad files and 73 files to print. There are 9 small cad files to create and 1 file to yet finish. To create this project, I first had to create it in a complete cad form. Each 3d printable parts in there own file. This is the current composite. I will provide pic's of printed parts as they become available. Don't hesitate to ask questions, comment or suggest.

It had it's flaws, but that's why it's called a test print. I have cured what ailed it.

As you may remember, I showed you this Skylark in a post awhile back. The files like the ones above are $75 a piece. Buy 3-4 5% discount, yada, yada, yada. These aren't 3d printable.There is only one layer and no depth to them. There is no detailed interior. If you want it 3d printable, it's an extra $300. There is no guarantee that will fulfill your need. These people are not model car people. They don't know exactly what you need. Detailed interior, more $. The Skylark is on my list as one of the next purchases. I can't promise you when, but it will happen.

I've posted the front clip before, but didn't save the pic. I fell down and broke my left hip and had a pin and three screws used to repair it 6 weeks ago. I'm just now getting somewhat back to normal. I hauled out one of the test prints from the trash basket and this is the best I can give you for now.

Down loaded these 3 from Hum3d early this a.m. The 55 and 57 will get the same treatment I used on the 57 DeSoto. I turned it into an Adverturer convertible and have already done successful test prints.

I run Windows 10 on a VirtualBox set up on my Linux machine. Works great.

These files are known as blue prints and can be used to create a 3d printable file.

If there is a reason for using acrylic spray paints, there is one brand I am familiar with. Liquitex. I use their tube paint with my air brush and get great results. They are pricey though. Mail order seems to be about the only way to purchase them. Walmart has them as well as others. https://www.walmart.com/browse/home-improvement/spray-paint/liquitex/1072864_1067617_1067620_1091547/YnJhbmQ6TGlxdWl0ZXgie

Yes. I 3d resin printed it. There aren't any lines.

AMT has never made a correct Dodge 270 hemi. They used what appears as a Chrysler hemi block and made the other parts fit it. Last year, I created the Dodge 241-270 hemi using the proper measurements from a real engine located at a salvage yard near me. The Dodge isn't only considerably smaller, the heads are different as well as the water pump housing. Below are a print of the engine I created as well as a pic of the reference block. I well post a w.i.p. of it if anyone is interested.

I have the Harbor Freight ultrasonic cleaner and it works fine. I use it to clean excess resin off 3d printed parts. A car body will easily fit in it. Just be careful about using alcohol in an ultrasonic cleaner. Using heat will cause a fire.

Fantastic accomplishments Randy. If only I had the ability to photo small parts as well as you. I'm working on and am very close to the next step. The completion of a complete multi part 3d printed model car. A holy grail of mine . The 1935 LaSalle. It's extremely close to reality. Oh, and forget the lines. They don't exist.?

Must have gotten below 70. I use a space heater to warm up my computer and modeling rooms. I built this house in 2005 thru 2007 as totally energy efficient, The power company paid me money when I moved in. My last electric bill was less than $50.00. My highest in the summer was less than $80.00. it's not the cold, but the dampness that gets me. As far as modeling goes, it's the best time to paint. The humidity drops to a usable level.

Report post Posted 11 hours a I agree....what will happen is loss of detail/sharpness of parts by trying to sand around the details that everyone swears is THE BEST....whats the point?....you are creating more work for yourself, and are losing the realism of finishes. I think there's some kind of blindness in our hobby, that says things like PE, metal parts, and 3D printed parts are the most realistic simply because their already real metal, or the newest technologies. There are HUNDREDS of modelers out there that can create killer realism WITHOUT using the fancy stuff. I use as little PE , and "Special" stuff as i can these days. So, i'm with you, its not ready for all of us yet, but lets be truthful about it. You keep harping on this, but your ignorance is totally unbelievable. If I really know my stuff as Casey has said, then I know how to make the lines disappear. I have document the procedure in one of my previous threads. Maybe Casey can find it.

Stop using Shapeways. The right printer in the right hands will produce what you want.

Silence is golden.

It is now November 2019. The world of 3d printing changes rapidly. sanding finished parts? Your kidding, right. It's all up to the person doing the printing and there knowledge. Period.

I can only assume that your experience is with Shapeways. Resin prints done on a home 3d printer are very sand-able and are totally lacking in in layer lines. Again. It's the lack of knowledge that prevents you from understanding. If you want proof, message me your address and I will send it to you.

Where do I begin? I have a college degree with a B.S.in Business Administration. My majors were in accounting and economics. My g.p.a. in accounting was 3.5 and economics was 3.8. I have been a small business accountant with my own practice for going on 30 years. I've built my first 2 3d printers. One being an f.d.m. machine and the other was a resin printer. I know this technology very well. When I see people opting for price, I think of this quote. A sub $500.00 resin printer is just that. Cheap. As in dime store cheap. F.d.m is totally out of the question because of the lack of detail. Moving on to your for 3d printed bodies, I offer these. 1935 Delehaye 135 f&f roadster. My LaSalle 1935 convertable coupe build w.i.p. build test prints. These were printed on my Phrozen XL printer with an 8.5 inch lcd screen. It cost me $1253.00. You don't see many prints like this because: Lack of file and knowledge of how to make the files printable. The propensity of model car builders to be cheap. I would suggest that if you are anywhere close to me in Florida, that you might take a ride and view the results for yourself.

Harry was a pure class act. He was the glue that made everything happen. The forum moderation, never been duplicated. The magazine. I miss him.

What size prints are you wanting to do?

55 Pontiac frame 55 Chevy

I would love to see a new kit of this car someday, but short of someone doing a 3-D printed version, I know that the possibility is virtually zero. Would you believe 100% possibility? Sometime next year. I have started the cad file. I have a promo of the car, a 56 4 view blue print and a 3d scanner which give me a good form of reference. I'm currently involved in completing a 35 LaSalle convertible rumble seat coupe and a coupe. There are 140+ 3d printed parts to the LaSalle. I'm 70% done and am shooting for the end of year completion. Next, I'm going to go to the mid to late 50's Chrysler products. All projects will have a complete and accurate body, frame, engine and interior. I also have completed the Dodge 241 engine that only needs the poly heads created for the 55 Plymouth. That's the Dodge engine in my avatar.

No problem, Steve. I did appreciate the message you sent me a few days ago.