my66s55

Here is my tip for the day. I just learned this myself last month. Do not remove the supports from your print after it's done printing. Instead, clean it up and put it into a container of hot water. It should be about 130-140 degree's F. Cover it if you can and let it sit for about 20 minutes. Remove it and the supports will come of easily. Some will even fall off. Some might not come off easily. Clip them as close to the part as possible. I use a straight edge razor blade to cut it off at the surface or some times you can use something to push the stub off. The result is that you eliminate pits. I didn't believe this at first, but I tried it on my last print and it works. Hot water softens the supports and won't damage the print.

I 3d printed up both angled and straight boots. There is the bottom of the spark plug and an opening at the top to incert the plug wire. You can see them on the last page of w.i.p. "my 3d printed projects" post.

Printing flat on the build plate whenever is good, but printing on supports need to be on an angle. The backs of those seats are going to be bumpy and need a lot of work to make them smooth. Here is a video showing how to find the right angle to get a perfect print. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qs2Rb0ExnIM

To answer your question correctly, unless Bill has found a cad file for it, it will have to be created. As I pointed out on the Where do you find 3d files for printing on this thread, on my computer. You have to create them.

The printer software comes with a test print. This was it.

Looks decent. I need to send you some test files to zero in you prints. It looks good. but maybe could be better. The speck for printing I sent you were for 30 um layer height print specks. This is for something that you want to create fine detail or is small like door handles, side mirrors ect. Most larger prints will be done at 50 um. It's also better for prints with a curve or slant. There's also anti anti anti-aliasing to help eliminate the step results. Even though we have the same printer, honing in the best results can be off be .1 tenth of a second or more. As far as the Volvo 1800, I did some research on the subject.

What printer are you using to print these?

You can't go wrong ordering from Fireball. Buy with confidence. Joseph is top notch when it comes to his offering. There's nobody better better.

Looking Good.

I didn't take you post to mean anything more than what you just state here. I saw it as a gesture to help someone and work on your skills. You valve cover looks nice.

I think I saw in one of your recent posts that you are using Blender. First off, be aware of tunnel vision when using photos for background image. Search the web for good images and set up background images from available sides. This photo shows a more accurate straight on picture. It came from an ebay listing https://www.ebay.com/itm/165287597173?hash=item267be89475:g:EBkAAOSwLHhfWV9l and has more decent views. I've been using Blender for 7+ years so if you need any help, just message me.

Unless it's a body, most all my parts come off Blender as I have to create them myself. My avatar is a 50's Dodge hemi.

I'll get back to the 55 Dodge soon.

The body, rolling chassis with engine and other parts a above this post. Everything except the grill, outside handles and the emergency brake have been printed.

I want to show you what can be accomplished with the right desk top $370 3d printer today. The following are parts to my 35 La Salle. They are only shown as examples of my project. I will do the necessary finishing touches to make them what I want later. The needed changes are merely cosmetic. First off is the dash. Next, a hubcap on the fender skirt. This is recessed lettering and chromed with DecoColor chrome felt tip. The lettering is red acrylic paint. This idea was taken from a real car. This is the interior door hardware. These were created from pic's of the originals. The window crank, wing vent and door handle. And lastly. The banjo steering wheel. It's currently not possible to do with current printers, but this should get the job done for now.

It's been awhile. I haven't been idol. I've been working on upgrading one of my printers to 4k. It's not real simple and takes awhile to do this. Mean while , I told myself in in 2019 that I was going to finish the 1934 La Salle convertible coupe. I made the same goal in 2020. Neither one happened. In 2021, I made the same goal and now am determined it to happen in the first quarter of 2022. Here is where I am as of this date. January 2, 2022. If you can imagine. Realize that this is the boot with the spark plug in it in the bottom of it that I used in the wiring. The thickness of the upper wall is less than 1 mm. Above that is the interior window crank. The vent window crank is even smaller.

View this topic and the ask Mr Obsessive what he used. My Models For 2021 (VERY pic heavy with video) Part 1

You don't need to air brush the filler primer. It's not high build to begin with. High build would give you too much thickness and screw up your detail. The front vents will be a real problem. You can file down most that are high, but the others may need ones scratch built to replace them. As a note to you, or anyone reading this thread. If the product is not printed on an resin based printer, forget it. By resin based I mean sla : laser printer or msla: led resin printer. At any rate, the project is do able. I'm sure you'r up to the task.

Get some Duplicolor scratch filler primer. Spray a light to medium coat so as to save as much detail as possible. Spray a lighter color as a guide coat and then sand with 600 wet sandpaper. You do a guide coat by spraying far enough away from the model so that you only get specks and not a full coat. Continue until you have an even surface.

Ghostery - it"s free and also blocks trackers

Same here. I have the trigger action and they are fantastic.

I can print everything in high detail except the antenna. I'll use the usual way for that.

I have a w.i.p. of the 53 Eldorado at the bottom of pg 3 and top of pg 4. It's on my w.i.p. "my 3d printed projects" post currently on page 3 of w.i.p. Here's screen shots of the file.

I've been been busy on other projects, but I've made some progress on the 53 Caddy 331 engine.

That happens to be a 3d cad file that you can buy for $8.80. It's located here: https://www.artstation.com/marketplace/p/erMX6/1987-porsche-959-3d-model. If you have someone make them for you, have them make both sides. That way you'll be assured of having a matching set.