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Messed up my first Candy Apple Red finish...


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How was this applied? If you spray canned Testor's enamel you'll have to wait a long time for the paint to cure before you can sand and recoat. If Tamiya or Testors lacquer,you can sand in a few days and recoat. Remember to warm the paint before spraying and get a little closer to avoid orange peel.

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Problem is you must spray candy in very, very thin layers to prevent it from running away from edges and door shut lines. To get the balance right between just foggig on a layer of candy and at the same time get it smooth I find extremely challenging.

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Hum . . . from experience, I would say cut your loses and start again. You gotta follow your instincts and if you don't like it, strip it and start again. This is why--when I am doing shiny paint job--I paint two of the same models at the same time as an insurance policy. Then again, I've also messed both up and now it's double the trouble!

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. Find out why you got so much OP though.

Pretty sure I know why it happened..aside from rushing so i didn't miss Bill Maher. I had the nozzle open way too much. I should have known, didnt take long to get full coverage. I usually use Don Yosts method, and apply super thin coats.

It's been sitting in the dehydrator since last night. It's probably ready to sand now but i'll let it cook another 12 hours just to be sure

Edited by Evil Appetite
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i think youre going the right way. you can always strip it but i would go with sanding it a bit and if you didnt burn through the red to primer, i might even think about shooting tamiya clear red over it to enhance the candy effect. might be a mistake though, might just want to shoot with a coat of clear.

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one other little tip i've learned about candy painting that always seems to work.when you are spraying always move your hand at the same speed.if while painting you speed up or slow down,it can affect yor shading,darker or lighter in spots.hope it helps. good luck

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I haven't seen it mentioned in this thread but I've found that "wet sanding" with a very fine grit is the only way to go especially with "softer" paints like enamel. Enamel doesn't cure, flash over or gas out like lacquer. The surface of the enamel dries but the paint underneath that skin layer remains soft for quite a while. That's one of the reasons for baking enamel. Wet sanding allows the surface to be smoothed without the paper loading up and scratching through or rolling up the enamel.

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