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PAINT CONFESSIONAL


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Virgil ,

In answer to your question , I use the Model Master Clear Top Coat at the same 2 to 1 ratio . It will yellow in time when used over white or ivory . I have not had any problems with it over metallics or pearls . When using standard colors , I forego the clear and simply polish out the finish.

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Thanks to Mike Mc , the Pearl X powders were brought to my attention . A local art supply carried the entire set and I couldn't resist the temptation !

What intrigues me about them the most is that there are more than a few corresponding colors that can be blended together . When applied in misted coats between straight clear coats , they form a waiting array of color . The slightest movement of the eye or light causes the color to change and blend into another .

I always found the Chrome illusion paints of the '90's to be offensive to the eye . Brown to blue to green to purple just makes no sense to me at all .

These pearl additives are a whole diffrent story ! Violet to purple to blue , one example , is much more appealing to the eye for my sense of color rather than the aforementioned sequence . There are many more combinations that can be brought out in just this one set !

The micron size is perfect for 1/25th scale modeling , drawback being , it is very difficult to capture the full effect of the pearls spectrum with the camera .

I bought a set just for this reason; I have yet to use them but I'm sure I can come up with something. To answer the Good Dr.'s question, I usually stare at the project until something comes to mind. I also likepainting with nail polish so I get a few different choices there. There are times when I see a certain color and the rest of the build just falls together in my head...

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I saw the color above in my wife's manicure bag and things came together quite quickly. Chopper originally got me into using nail polishes and it took a while for me to get used to them but now, I'll use nail polish without hesitation.

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Edited by Tonioseven
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The car below was painted roughly 6 or 7 years ago using Testors enamel thinned with lacquer thinner from AutoZone. I cleared it with Testors #2936 clear from the can. I didn't care about yellowing because it's already orange. Sometimes you have to go out on a limb and try new things. I rarely use enamels these days but I have no problem doing so as I now know what steps to take to make it a painless (mostly) process...

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A lot of what I learned in the hobby came from trying what the status quo said NOT to do. sometimes the people giving the "advice" have nothing to show as evidence they use it. Donn and Mike Mc are two of the people that know what they're talking about. I use Donn's technique regularly when I paint my builds and Mike Mc has a collection of beautiful builds that I've seen first-hand and I can vouch for abilities with paint. B)

Edited by Tonioseven
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Hello there. I'm using rattle ball cans of paint from Automotivetouchup. They make the color codes; for example, the car in my avatar is my Monogram '82 Corvette Collectors edition. Its done in Chevrolet code 7415. I have a '79 Trans am 1/8 done in Heritage Brown, Code 8031 and another in the making with Code 50 Solar Gold. (I also use their primer and clearcoat.)

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i sometimes browse various color palettes in automotive paint shop. deep thinkink about using 1497th shade of blue metallic can be a kind of the stress releif.. :)

I was going to say something along the same lines. Since many of my more recent projects have been cars I've owned I've spent a lot of time looking at standard automotive paint. As said, there are MANY variations on blue metallic ... probably 12 new shades every year! Just watch the cars on the street and when one strikes you , get some of THAT paint! There are a few places that even will custom mix small quantities of paint for models.

Scalefinishes

Paint Scratch

MCW

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I was going to say something along the same lines. Since many of my more recent projects have been cars I've owned I've spent a lot of time looking at standard automotive paint. As said, there are MANY variations on blue metallic ... probably 12 new shades every year! Just watch the cars on the street and when one strikes you , get some of THAT paint! There are a few places that even will custom mix small quantities of paint for models.

Scalefinishes

Paint Scratch

MCW

But it quickly turns circles. Even the newest shade can often be mached closely enough with something that had been there already. Close enough for modelling anyway.

I also have to say that I always try to go a notch brighter on the model, than the colour is in real life. There is so much less refelctive area, that if the colour is used 1:1, the model often looks a shade too dark.

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Virgil ,

10 or 12 mist coats gives a good base to polish with . By controlling the paint environment , the need for excessive polishing is removed . Being aware of high ridges and points on the body also prevents burn through .

I use Novus 2 to polish out with and The Final Treatment's Detail Wax to finish it off with . Without any debris in the finish , you can start with 6000 and work your way up to 12000 , then polish it out .

I do not use primer under the standard colors. I polish the body up to 12000 under cold running water , wash it off , blow dry it with compressed air , then immediately begin to paint it .

I use Testors aluminum metallizer as my base coat when using pearls and metallics for a top coat . These can also be polished out sans clear as long as all of the painted parts are sanded and polished equally .

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