foxbat426 Posted November 5, 2011 Posted November 5, 2011 a thread in this forum recommends using lacquer thinner, not mineral spirits, for thinning Testors oil based enamels. it mentions that the dry tiome is much faster using lacquer thinner. My question is, does this hold true for all brands of oil-based enamels paints or just testors? thx, john
Dr. Cranky Posted November 5, 2011 Posted November 5, 2011 Interesting question, John. I am assuming you are referring to the comment Donn Yost posted a while back. Let's see if he'll chime in . . .
LoneWolf15 Posted November 5, 2011 Posted November 5, 2011 John , I cannot say for all ! I have used it with several different brands of enamels , however , and had no problems whatsoever. I use a 2 to 1 paint to thinner ratio with the Testors enamels . Donn Yost
foxbat426 Posted November 5, 2011 Author Posted November 5, 2011 (edited) don, thx for the quick response - yes i will give it a try and see what happens on a brand other than testors. Don, do you shoot mostly with enamels or do you use acrylics and lacquers also? by the way do you offer a package deal on your dvd's? i would like to order all of them - i've watched the previews and they look great! john Edited November 5, 2011 by foxbat426
Scale-Master Posted November 6, 2011 Posted November 6, 2011 While I use lacquer thinner in most of my enamels, (and even some acrylics), I found out the Tamiya enamels do not work well at all with it. Mineral spirits is a must for them.
GeeBee Posted November 6, 2011 Posted November 6, 2011 I don't use too many enamel paint these days, however I do use it under my Alclad, and for this I have been using Revell thinned with cellulose (Lacquer) thinners, comes out really glossy and dries a lot quicker, I've also used the same thinner in Tamiya acrylic paints and that works very well as well, I've also used the same thinners with Humbrol enamel, so far no problems,
Art Anderson Posted November 6, 2011 Posted November 6, 2011 Simple answer is: Lacquer thinner works very well with oil based enamels, always has and I assume always will. Now, with Tamiya, their enamels are waterborne, so that advice may well be off. Art
Lownslow Posted November 7, 2011 Posted November 7, 2011 Simple answer is: Lacquer thinner works very well with oil based enamels, always has and I assume always will. Now, with Tamiya, their enamels are waterborne, so that advice may well be off. Art i tried using laquer with enamel and fried one paint job on the second coat : (, ive been using enamels with urethane reducer and i havent had a problem yet
Junkman Posted November 7, 2011 Posted November 7, 2011 I still use oil-based enamels for everything I don't paint with automotive paint. Like GeeBee, I use cellulose thinners with them. I tried white spirit and turpentine, but nothing works as good as cellulose. I always carefully nick the little glass jam jars from the breakfast buffet in hotels. I fill three of them with cellulose. The first is the 'dirty' one. This is where I stump in the brushes straight after I used them. After I wiped them on a cloth, I then stump them into glass no.2 and after another wiping they go into glass no.3 for a final rinse. Once glass no.3 is slightly contaminated, I dump what is in glass no.1, fill it with what's in glass no.2, fill glass no.2 with the slightly contaminated content of glass no.3 and fill glass no.3 with fresh cellulose.
Psychographic Posted November 7, 2011 Posted November 7, 2011 i tried using laquer with enamel and fried one paint job on the second coat : (, ive been using enamels with urethane reducer and i havent had a problem yet When did you apply your second coat?
Lownslow Posted November 7, 2011 Posted November 7, 2011 When did you apply your second coat? a day after
Psychographic Posted November 7, 2011 Posted November 7, 2011 a day after There is your problem. As enamel dries and starts to cure the addition of the solvent with the second coat attacks the curing paint. This can happen even with reducers and mineral spirits, although as they aren't as hot as LT. You need to recoat once it tacks, or wait until the paint cures (not dries).
LoneWolf15 Posted November 7, 2011 Posted November 7, 2011 Let me clarify .... When I suggest cutting enamels with laquer , use the cheap stuff ! As in bargain basement , hardware store variety laquer thinner . No automotive related brands whatsoever ! Lownslow , I believe you simply used a thinner that was hot and not a cheap brand that is simply " warm " I use Sunnyside laquer thinner which is available from the Do It Best hardware chain .
Lownslow Posted November 7, 2011 Posted November 7, 2011 Let me clarify .... When I suggest cutting enamels with laquer , use the cheap stuff ! As in bargain basement , hardware store variety laquer thinner . No automotive related brands whatsoever ! Lownslow , I believe you simply used a thinner that was hot and not a cheap brand that is simply " warm " I use Sunnyside laquer thinner which is available from the Do It Best hardware chain . couldve been im not gonna switch to anything else tho this stuff im using is working great, psycho it was still pretty tacky when i sprayed it.
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