stulee11 Posted November 9, 2011 Posted November 9, 2011 hi everyone. i just wanted to pick ur brains on getting a really good finish on my paint work i know how to get a perfect paint job on real cars and stuff and i know the process is basicly the same BUT i am a little unsure on the grades of the paper to use and how many coats of paint to put down . so PLEASE could someone help guide me in the right direction . thanks stu
Dr. Cranky Posted November 9, 2011 Posted November 9, 2011 Stu, I just ordered Donn Yost's DVDs because I want to learn (I don't think I ever it got it right to begin with) how to use enamels to airbrush my models with . . . I can't wait for them to arrive this Friday. And Donn was generous enough to sign them for me so they'll be an integral part of my styrene addiction collection.
High octane Posted November 9, 2011 Posted November 9, 2011 Stu, I usually start out by washing the body and all parts in dishwashing soap and water, rinse, and dry to avoid water spots. I then lightly sand the body with 600 or 1000 grit to rough it up a bit. I then mount the body on a paint holder, wipe it with a tack rag and then give it a coat of primer. The next day or two, I'll check to see if the primer covered everything. If it did I'll lightly sand the primer with 1000 grit, wipe the body again with my tack rag, mount it and spray on a light color coat. I'll wait 20 minutes and then spray on another light color coat. In another 20 minutes I'll warm the can of paint in warm water for about 6-8 minutes and then spray a wet and final color coat. The next day I'll check the paint and if okay I'll wipe it again with my tack cloth and spray on a light clear coat. 20 minutes later another clear coat, and 20-30 minutes later another wet clear coat with a heated can of clear. I'll then let the body sit for two or three weeks and then I'll poilish it out using "wet" sanding cloths of 4,000, 6,000. 8,000, and 12,000 grits. I'll then use Slick & Smooth from Mike's Scale Speed Shop or the Treatment Wax or Mequires polish. This method works for me and I'm sure other builders will have another way of doing their paint jobs.Remember not to use too much paint or you'll cover all the details on the body. I hope this helps.
High octane Posted November 9, 2011 Posted November 9, 2011 BTW, I forgot to mention that I use lacquer in rattle cans.
stulee11 Posted November 9, 2011 Author Posted November 9, 2011 brill thanks bruv . i only use rattle cans anyway cuz i dont have a airbrush yet
my66s55 Posted November 9, 2011 Posted November 9, 2011 Do youself a BIG favor, get Donn Yost's disk.
Tom Setzer Posted November 10, 2011 Posted November 10, 2011 I agree Get Donn Yost's DVD to learn how to get a great gloss finish on you Models. For Weathering buy Virgil's( Dr Cranky's) Ratz, Rodz, and Rust Book. They both use plain easy to understand language, and they both make the experience enjoyable! CHEERS! Tom
stulee11 Posted November 10, 2011 Author Posted November 10, 2011 (edited) where do i get the dvd and book from ??? i do put the decals on before the clear coat don't i ?? Edited November 10, 2011 by stulee11
LoneWolf15 Posted November 11, 2011 Posted November 11, 2011 DVD .... Oldmansmodels.com . Pm Doctor Cranky for information on the book . Bob Downie also has an excellent book on airbrushing.
Dr. Cranky Posted November 19, 2011 Posted November 19, 2011 Yes, Donn is right, Bob has a wonderful book on airbrushing . . . some amazing projects in that book. My book can be ordered through: http://www.ak-interactive-usa.com/
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now