foxbat426 Posted November 13, 2011 Posted November 13, 2011 (edited) For instance on the 66 fairlane on each quarter panel in the back "Fairlane"" is in raised molded letters in the plastic. I think the impala is like this too, i'm sure many others too. I would like to keep these letters open (of course with paint in between them), maybe paint them or foil them instead of just painting over them. They might be to small for foiling. Anyway, is there a technique for keeping these unpainted, while not recking the main paint job and having to touch up - it looks so much better when they are not painted over. would love to hear how some here deal with this. Great site - learning tons! thanks! John Edited November 13, 2011 by foxbat426
Junkman Posted November 14, 2011 Posted November 14, 2011 I look out whether a PE kit is available, then shave them off. Alternatively, I so far tried to cover them with bare metal foil after I painted the model - with unsatisfactory results. On my next model, I will try a trick I have read about several times - cover the script with bare metal foil, then polish it bare after each coat of paint.
SuperStockAndy Posted November 14, 2011 Posted November 14, 2011 Put foil over the letters. Paint the body. Sand over the letters, and the foil will show through the paint
walt francis Posted November 14, 2011 Posted November 14, 2011 Like Andy said but what I use is an pencil eraser and thinner to rub it off .
brett Posted November 14, 2011 Posted November 14, 2011 Same as Andy here, do any body work (mold lines etc) wash then foil. Trim close to the letters, then prime, lightly sand to (I use 2000 wet and dry here) remove primer from them . Then the same with paint
RodneyBad Posted November 14, 2011 Posted November 14, 2011 no one hand paints them? I admit it, if I do the lettering and it can't (or I can't) BMF it, I'll paint them. Works for me.
Bastardo Posted November 14, 2011 Posted November 14, 2011 I dry-brush them Mask the sorounding area, use a fiiiine brush or a toothpick, use the least amount of paint as possible, put some calm music on and just go for it
Dr. Cranky Posted November 14, 2011 Posted November 14, 2011 Drybrushing works for me, but I tend to sand them off completely and then use PE or decals, that is if I still want them on there . . . most of the time I don't.
Junkman Posted November 14, 2011 Posted November 14, 2011 no one hand paints them? I used to. I still do when they are supposed to be gold.
Tony T Posted November 14, 2011 Posted November 14, 2011 Depending on the style and type of the letters, I will use foil before or after paint or I'll drybrush. I have used both techniques in the past on the same model due to where the lettering was on the body - I messed up on the decklid so peeled the foil and dry-brushed. If the kit comes with decals then the moulded trim gets sanded off.
Pete J. Posted November 14, 2011 Posted November 14, 2011 I have used the BMF under paint trick quite succesfully in the past. I have also used a differant trick for larger script and badges. I make a mold of the piece. I do this by BMFing it, leaving a bit of foil around the edges. Perhaps a 1/4" or so. I coat it with a very heavy coat of white glue. Once the white glue is dry, I use a thick body putty and build a large lump that you can get a hold of on top of the white glue. Once everything is dry, pull it off the model. You will have a nice one time use mold of the script. Fill the back of the mold with thick super glue and let it harden. Once set, use a sanding stick to level the back and sand it until you get rid of the surface of the BMF at the first level of the white glue. Throw the whole mess in some warm water. This will desolve the white glue and the script will separate with the BMF surface intact. Handle with care as it is a bit brittle. You can then sand the original from the body and paint as normal. Use a thin coat of white glue on the back of the script to glue it to the body. This is a bit challenging, but you don't get the build up of paint that you get with the other method.
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