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Comparing car models to airplane models


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ok, Art... now you got me curious!

I just checked out my Danbury '56 Buick under my magnifier lamp. I can't find even a trace of a sprue attachment point on any of the plastic parts... the engine parts, the exhaust system, the chrome trim strips on the sides of the body, the windshield and rear glass frames, etc. except for one place: the "stems" of the outside rear view mirrors have a tiny spot that's been touched up with silver paint. I can only assume that those parts are so small and delicate that even someone's small hands couldn't sand those areas smooth?

Either they have figured a way to hide all the sprue attachment points, or like you say, they take every single part and sand off all imperfections before paint and assembly (like a good model builder should! :D ). In either case, it's mighty impressive what they can do.

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Art...I've been doing some research for a while on electroplating plastic parts. From what I've gathered they have to coat a plastic part first with an electrically conductive primer such as that made by Caswell called Silvaspray here... http://www.caswellplating.com/kits/silvaspray.html The only catch is...that stuff is SUPER EXPENSIVE!!! Like $300 for an 8 ounce can! I'd love to try it but my modeling budget just ain't that rich. But in any case, plastic itself is not electrically conductive so it cannot be triple plated like a piece of metal. It has to be made conductive first. If Danbury uses the Caswell products then they can esaily make those plastic parts look like chrome because it actually IS chrome. Or maybe they use something else as a conductor under their chrome. And maybe their "chrome" is just nickel plate? I don't know...just conjecture.

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I don't have any diecast models so I have this observation or maybe it's a question...Isn't all the chrome on a diecast actual "CHROME plating?" I mean the parts are metal so aren't they actually chrome plated and not vacuum plated like plastic parts are?

Terry,

With the use of conductive base coats, plastic can be electroplated, and is done industrially as well--the chrome grilles in the few cars and pickups that have them are chromium plating ON PLASTIC most generally.

While Danbury and Franklin Mint cars have plastic bumpers and other chrome trim, it's plated by this process: Electroconductive clear base coat on the plastic, then a layer of copper is plated. Next comes a layer of nickel, followed by a layer of chromium. I went to modify a set of Danbury Mint '35 Ford pickup bumpers for use as masters for a resin transkit or two back about 13yrs ago--only to find that a brand-new jeweler's needle file just SLID across the back of the first bumper I worked with--didn't even scratch the chromium (pure chromium is far harder than many steels!).

in doing this, they do insist on the very finest in injection molding tooling, and then they pay workers to polish away any hint of mold parting lines, before the parts are racked for cleaning, basecoating and finally the three-step ("triple") plating operation.

Art

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That borders on lazy.

I build both military and auto. Add in H-O scale railroading and I have the bases pretty well covered. One of the reasons I rarely finish anything is I am looking to make it as realistic as possible. I will figure out how to re-engineer a car kit to fit the larger wheels and still retain a somewhat functional suspension (albeit I quite often will lay it right down on the rubber, but it will look right when viewed as all suspension bits have been modified to be 'functional'). My H-O and (when I was into it) N-scale stuff was also held to a high level of realism. I have no real need or room for crud modeling. By profession, I am held to a very high level of attention to detail, as if I fail to do so, people can DIE. My job is very detail-oriented, and so too is anything I do as a hobby. Laziness is NOT an operating motive. Get it right or don't to it at all.

Now, as to Terrys' original intent of the thread. As car modelers (as a whole), we are extremely cheap. We are lazy with our money and lax with our standards. However, there is a group of car modelers who are of the same mind-set as our military brothers. They strive for accuracy and overall fit/finish. Too often though, they are lambasted and ridiculed by the at-large-masses for being that way. Too often a truly nice kit COULD be done, but the cheapskates complain about the MSRP of the kit. Get off your stinginess and pony up for quality. Too few car guys see the forest through all the darn trees. You want a highly detailed kit? Invest in it by paying for the development. Buy the quality kits and the manufacturers will listen (again, see our military brothers). You all piss and moan about a $25.00 kit, but will spend over $100 on photoetch and aftermarket goodies to bring it up to the level of a $100 kit. Why not just spend the $100 to begin with and get the far better kit? Simple really, Laziness and Cheapskate attitude.

If I ruffled any feathers, good. I full well meant to. Terry (and Harry as well) are completely correct about auto modelers as a whole. If you can't stand that reflection looking back at you, do something to change it. Simple words really.

P.S: Terry, I'll catch you over at ARC!

I have to agree with you Brad as I've seen time and time again that a lot of modelers want a $60 kit for $20 and cry, cry, cry when a new kit comes out that isn't to their liking.
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Here's a Danbury '56 Buick. I have this model, so I can say from firsthand knowledge that the chrome bumpers (and all of the separate chrome trim pieces) are perfect... no sprue attachment points visible anywhere. Danbury can do it... so obviously it can be done. But you won't find a model of this quality for 20 bucks.

56buickQ.jpg

I have that Buick also Harry and it is gorgeous. A friend of mine got it for me as a gift.
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